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Is this the recommended part list for a bottom end rebuild?? its rebuild season

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Blackmage

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
ok my taxes are coming in and my 91 awd tsi has been sitting since june / july last year.

problem Rod Knock i have no idea how it happened i bought the car changed plugs and wires cleaned everything. Cleaned inter cooler tightened bought replaced things. started too noticeing a clunking after 2500 rpm's and a serious lag till 40 mph. I'm automatic but with the 14 b with the automatic exhaust manifold she ran hot and smoked from the manifold i declare the engine running too hot with really bad oil in it too the rod knock. When the oil was changed it was really long over due. oh and it has the autmatic fuel injectors found that out the other day

but too the part list

I have a new bottom end with rods and pistons and old water pump and crank ima have it balance and cleaned i know the head in my car now is gonna need work i have no possible way of doing any of the work my self no dsm buddies no tools time or space too learn but i know its gonna need too be cleaned and polished hope its fine after that

I know i should buy some apr head studs, apr rod bolts, apr main studs , mitisi 4 layer head gasket , Full engine gasket set , balance shaft elimnation , i have an oil pump that needs the long rod thingy that spins forgot what its called lol but oil pump maybe. Full Timeing kit thats long over due balance shaft belt was done in 92 last time recorded lol should i buy the 6 bolt main bearing set for the crank? new exhaust manifold 2nd gen or 3vo gt im looking towards

am i missing anything major here i'm trying too keep this as cheap as possible so i do not have too do inside motor work for awhile i know this isn't going too be cheap but i can't aford more then a 1500 dollar part list i gotta take it into a shop locally colorado
 
#4 ·
Blackmage said:
I know i should buy some apr head studs, apr rod bolts, apr main studs , mitisi 4 layer head gasket , Full engine gasket set , balance shaft elimnation , i have an oil pump that needs the long rod thingy that spins forgot what its called lol but oil pump maybe. Full Timeing kit thats long over due balance shaft belt was done in 92 last time recorded lol should i buy the 6 bolt main bearing set for the crank? new exhaust manifold 2nd gen or 3vo gt im looking towards
Click to expand...
Let me help you out. ;)

ARP head studs
STOCK Mitsu NEW rod bolts
STOCK Mitsu NEW main cap bolts
Mitsu MLS head gasket
Gasket Set
BSE kit
Oil Pump and cover
Timing kit AND TENSIONER
ACL standard Aluglide bearing set or OEM Main and Rod bearing set
SSautochrome tubular manifold / SBR EVOIII recast manifold

Not counting machine work... thats not too bad.
Counting machine work it is.

Find a set of 450cc Inj for $50 on ebay too.
390cc/min Inj FTL! :(

NOTES: You DO NOT want to get into what you have to do to run ARP hardware in the rods and mains... All that shit has to get line honed for the increased torque being applied to it. Thus pulling things out of round when you clamp it down tighter... New stock Mitsu 6 bolt hardware is basically as strong if you factor in the expense of machine work to run the ARP stuff.
YOU DO HOWEVER NEED THE HEAD STUDS!

There is still alot of missing "possibilities" in your equation.
Keep that in mind and leave a big "grey" area for machine work.
BIG... area...
Trust me.

:cool:
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
yeah i figured that the machine work on everything was gonna be hefty priced but hopefully the guy that im takeing it too can cut me a deal or something i've yet too call him i just wanna get the parts down

i thought about oil filter housing being there may be metal chips in the head i don't know if there is tho its freezeing cold in colorado still so i can't drain nothing too find out.

i do have the option of buying a head for 75 bucks its been ported and has pretty much new head parts all around just needs too be rebuilt its legit seen it in person looks and feels great everything on its dime piece was ported for a friends 10 second dsm as back up but he never needed it so its in storage

would it hurt too pick up a set of 5 speed cam's i understand the 5 speeds had bigger cam's which leads too better overall mph's. The automatic didn't seem too launch past 1500 k probally due too the problems i had.
 
#6 ·
Blackmage said:
yeah i figured that the machine work on everything was gonna be hefty priced but hopefully the guy that im takeing it too can cut me a deal or something i've yet too call him i just wanna get the parts down
I hope so for your sake, not likely tho
i thought about oil filter housing being there may be metal chips in the head i don't know if there is tho its freezeing cold in colorado still so i can't drain nothing too find out.
Just get it off and flush it out real good
i do have the option of buying a head for 75 bucks its been ported and has pretty much new head parts all around just needs too be rebuilt its legit seen it in person looks and feels great everything on its dime piece was ported for a friends 10 second dsm as back up but he never needed it so its in storage
ok, if it has new parts why does it need rebuilt, watch who's port jobs you trust... my backups are stock... for a reason.
would it hurt too pick up a set of 5 speed cam's i understand the 5 speeds had bigger cam's which leads too better overall mph's. The automatic didn't seem too launch past 1500 k probally due too the problems i had.
Click to expand...
It definately wouldn't hurt at all.
Tho you could get the Brian Crower 272's that are on sale for $300 right now.
That would be much better, but its all in what you plan on doing with the car.

If cash is limited, and the concern is primarily running.
Get a set of manual cams and be done with it.
Anything else?

:cool:
 
#9 ·
Discussion starter · #10 ·
all hail almighty asmos

um being i have too get the head thats in the car no machined would it be wise to go ahead and buy a new valve train? if i'm getting manual stock cams? or maybe some bc's u got me tempting with that but i'm unsure about idle problems with the bc 272's or should i go with 280's

one day i want a 10 second car but right now i just want a semi stock car too start playing with
 
#11 ·
I'd say get the cams, but for money's sake I would be careful and mke sure you can afford everything else to get it running FIRST! Then if you can maybe get the 272's with fresh valve train.
If you do not have the manangement to get the most out of big cams they will likely just cause you big problems.
Those are made for guys running the thing up to 9k .
With a turbo that pulls the whole way up.

I'd say 272's or stock manual cams.
With the likely choice being manual cams for now.

On a stock turbo that quits at 6500rpm 280's wont even be getting started yet. And for what you will give up on the bottom, you will end up with a car that feels anemic on the bottom and midrange. And pulls like the holy mother for about 1k rpm. Between 5k and 6k rpm. At which point the tubro will be like OMG fucking heeeeeeeeeelp me... :wall:

Overall the story is always the same. The car with the most useable powerband is typically the winner. 272's and even a 16g turbo (especially if you get the thing clipped) will pull strongly to 7 or so. And the 272's will come on early enough to really put the "boom" to your "click click".... :p
Making your bottom end slightly softer and your middle and top perfectly matched to any medium to smaller sized turbo.

Get the thing running before you really start throwing money into other area's.
Make sure you have enough. I thought I would, but its turning out I likely won't. So be careful.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
thanks asmo you rule bro yeah i think with the part list you recommended and the advice you giving me that all my tax money and a few months of checks at work will have everything covered bringing the total too bout 2 grand on a semi rebuild

you said that i have a huge grey area in my situation what do you mean is there some more parts i should be buying just too be safe i pretty much wanna make sure i'm pretty safe this time around
 
#13 ·
Gray area = machine work cost.
Depending on what needs done, how invasive you have to get to get things perfect. (and this is not where you want to skimp. All your good components are only as good as they are put together.)
If you really want things to last I recommend a very good balancing.
This is what I mean, if there is one area you should pay critical attention to its this. And I mean microscope critical.

So leave enough money to cover this.

That's what I was saying.
 
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Asmodeus
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