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Or if you'd like to tune fuel-timing-etc above 8k rpm.
Which is where DSMlink shuts down and "guesses"
DSMlink for the money is awesome.
It makes managing injectors and fueling a snap.
The timing control and misc extra bonuc features are fantastic for the money. As compared to an AFC.

In comparison to an EMS, its far simpler to get moving and get it nailed down right away. However...
In applications where hairs are to be split, EMS is your option.
As DSMlink is about a 3/4 standalone.
Not fully.
 
IF you know how to program an eprom chip, than there is no problem making extended fuel and timing maps over 10k rpm's. You can do anything with the stock ecu that you can do with a standalone other than running more injectors.
 
centxdsm said:
Really? Maybe it's you reading comrehension that gives you the trouble. If you took "stand alones aren't better than dsmlink" from "the only people who advocate a full stand alone over dsmlink" than I'm sorry. Clearly I should have said (and did a couple posts below that) "Most people" instaed of "the only people".
Sorry for doubting you, oh mighty and knowledgeable DSM god. I guess there's only one way to interpret your generalized statement. Don't be so ass hurt about it.

centxdsm said:
I would also like to know what mods you have that surpassed the use of dsmlink? Maybe everyone with a bolt on turbo, smim, and cams should be going full stand alone?
Trust me, I'm no noob to DSMs or race cars. I said I could get good results using Link but performance could be optimized using my EMS. As for mods, here's the vital ones...

Pauter Rods
Ross Pistons
Oversized valves
ported head
HKS 272/272
SMIM
FP3065 (for now)
Big shot of n2o

No need to prove myself to you. Back on topic.
 
Why are you so hard set on getting a tubular manifold, it would seem that they flow better than a cast manifold, but they really don't, and they thin runners dissapate heat faster to the engine compartment for a slower spoolup. IF you get a tubular also it is pretty much a must to make a block to turbo bracket so that the welds on the manifold don't crack. Depending on what you are running turbo wise i would go with a slow boy external gate manifold, if using a t-3 i would go with the treadstone cast manifold, and if using a t-4 go with the revhard.
 
lg93awdgsxer said:
You just tweak it with the translator.
no translator....its lap top programable.

Also, it doesn't "guess" after 8k. It applies your changes to the sliders at 8k and keeps the changes constant, ie if the slider is at -15 at 8k, it modifies the curve the same amount at points beyond 8k.
 
1gawd4g63 said:
Why are you so hard set on getting a tubular manifold, it would seem that they flow better than a cast manifold, but they really don't, and they thin runners dissapate heat faster to the engine compartment for a slower spoolup. IF you get a tubular also it is pretty much a must to make a block to turbo bracket so that the welds on the manifold don't crack. Depending on what you are running turbo wise i would go with a slow boy external gate manifold, if using a t-3 i would go with the treadstone cast manifold, and if using a t-4 go with the revhard.
I felt the same way a few years ago.
Although I noticed a considerable spool differance utilizing a tubular manifold. I typically don't move to what is considered a higher level product until I think that part itself is presenting a restriction in my production of horsepower. I had reached the point (~550WHP) where I felt my ported 2G manifold could take me no further without the aid of nitrous.

My theory is the cast manifolds act almost as a heat sink and actually absorb heat that would be going to turn the turbine. Even though a tubular manifold may release more heat it doesn't retain it as you cast manifold will.

I personally don't care for headers with extremely long runners and top mounts in particular. There may be benifit from it, but my focus is on runner size and keeping the turbo as close to the exhaust ports/heat source as possible. I could be wrong, but to each his own.
 
1gawd4g63 said:
So just to clear everything up with the ones that don't know. Dsm link isn't a piggyback, it is a eprom tuning system. You can go further than dsmlink will take you on a stock ecu if you know how to program the eprom chip. Hell you can even chance the coding to accept a wideband o2 sensor, and a gm map sensor if you want. THERE IS ALOT YOU CAN DO WITH THE OEM ECU PAST WHAT LINK WILL ALLOW.

ignorance < *
 
centxdsm said:
ignorance < *
WTF DUDE, do you even know what you are talking about. Why would you call me ignorant, because i said link isn't a piggyback? OR because i said that there is alot that can be done with the stock ecu. I know alot about tuning the factory ecu, aparently you don't, so i would advise that you not comment, because comments like yours only make you look stupid. Nothing in my comment was ignorant, eat a dick.
 
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