I am currently starting to mod my car. Its a 97' GSX. I am looking for 400-450 whp and was woundering what type of setup i would need to get that. Its going to mostly be a DD. I want to do it right and have it somewhat reliable so any internal mods i need are ok. For a turbo i was thinking about a FP3052 or something along those lines. I dont want to much turbo lag. I will be using DSMlink for tuning.Any info would be greatly appreciated.
tsweers89
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With DSMLink you'll need a socketed eprom ecu as well, if you don't already have one. That should cover your tuning.tsweers89 said:
As far as the block goes, you can't go wrong with a set of forged pistons/rods. You'll have to get the block honed a bit to get the forged parts to fit. I believe that this is due to them expanding and contracting when they heat up and cool down. I'm not sure what a stock 2g crank will handle as far as HP, so hopefully someone will chime in. I know the 1g stock internals will handle around 400-450HP.
And for the head, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it ported, maybe bigger valves if you have the money. Brian Crower came out with a set of cams recently as well, not sure if they're for a 1g or 2g, but cams wouldn't be a bad idea either.
There's a million turbos out there that will get you to the 400-450HP range, i'll be doing it with a Evo3 16g here soon. Since you have link, i'd probably run like 750cc injectors or so, since it is rather easy to compensate for larger injectors with link.
The rest of the answers to your questions are probably lurking somewhere among these forums, i know most of mine were...
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/search.php?
Here, since its a street car and presumeably pump gas. Hoping its 93+ where you are...
I'd say go with a stg 5 turbine housing 50 trim. It'll spool slower but rip on top and give you just enough headroom to crack the 450ish mark possibly on pump gas. Likely around 26ish psi. I would suggest link, a 255 rewired, 6an the whole way from the tank back, stock rail just machine it out and screw the fittings in. Cams shoot the middle on a street car, fp2's/272's etc. Single spring kit should work, might have to shim if you're revving high. (If you are going to rev to the moon go with fp's dual spring kit and fuck shimming anything. Go with a good IM, JMF, or magnus. Grab a set of 880's+ if you're using link. Maybe 950's in your case. And save the nitrous controls for a h20/meth inj kit. That should help you beat the need for race gas and allow you to fully implement a gt 30/35r. IC of your choosing. Internals are up to you. I have similar goals and went Mahle/Scat. I liked the light weight factory coated shabang they had going on.
If you are planning on doing it to a 7 bolt you NEED to call overbore. That's pretty much their thing. Mark lives and breathes 7 bolt *cough* garbage. *cough-cough* Ross/Manley Wiseco/whatever... They're all good. Skip eagle rods. Mark will say Scat and Mahle tho. Mainly because they run about 1&8/10th's to 2ish thou piston to wall clearance. Which means excellent street behavior, little blow by and no start up rattle as THEY DO NOT EXPAND AT ALL.
As far as head, you probably won't need them but 1mm o/s valves will help. These can be had for pittance if you know where to look. I use engnbldr . com Ted's a good guy and they're swirl polished stainless for ebay prices. Fuck you can get them, guides, and lifters for under $250. That's what I have now. (And beat the living shit out of)
I like cast exhaust manifolds but thats just me. You choose. A simple ARP/MLS combo should work well for you. I'd probably go mitsu mls. I've reused mine twice now and it doesn't push a drop. To minimize port work I'd consider a 1g head and pretty much leave it be. Again, up to you.
If that doesn't net you atleast 450hp you're a fucking idiot.
Clutch, I'd say 2900 w/street disc if you can handle it. Expect to change it once a season if you race alot. Or spend big bucks and go twin disc.
Again... up to you.
Any more brain busters?
I'd say go with a stg 5 turbine housing 50 trim. It'll spool slower but rip on top and give you just enough headroom to crack the 450ish mark possibly on pump gas. Likely around 26ish psi. I would suggest link, a 255 rewired, 6an the whole way from the tank back, stock rail just machine it out and screw the fittings in. Cams shoot the middle on a street car, fp2's/272's etc. Single spring kit should work, might have to shim if you're revving high. (If you are going to rev to the moon go with fp's dual spring kit and fuck shimming anything. Go with a good IM, JMF, or magnus. Grab a set of 880's+ if you're using link. Maybe 950's in your case. And save the nitrous controls for a h20/meth inj kit. That should help you beat the need for race gas and allow you to fully implement a gt 30/35r. IC of your choosing. Internals are up to you. I have similar goals and went Mahle/Scat. I liked the light weight factory coated shabang they had going on.
If you are planning on doing it to a 7 bolt you NEED to call overbore. That's pretty much their thing. Mark lives and breathes 7 bolt *cough* garbage. *cough-cough* Ross/Manley Wiseco/whatever... They're all good. Skip eagle rods. Mark will say Scat and Mahle tho. Mainly because they run about 1&8/10th's to 2ish thou piston to wall clearance. Which means excellent street behavior, little blow by and no start up rattle as THEY DO NOT EXPAND AT ALL.
As far as head, you probably won't need them but 1mm o/s valves will help. These can be had for pittance if you know where to look. I use engnbldr . com Ted's a good guy and they're swirl polished stainless for ebay prices. Fuck you can get them, guides, and lifters for under $250. That's what I have now. (And beat the living shit out of) I like cast exhaust manifolds but thats just me. You choose. A simple ARP/MLS combo should work well for you. I'd probably go mitsu mls. I've reused mine twice now and it doesn't push a drop. To minimize port work I'd consider a 1g head and pretty much leave it be. Again, up to you.
If that doesn't net you atleast 450hp you're a fucking idiot.
Clutch, I'd say 2900 w/street disc if you can handle it. Expect to change it once a season if you race alot. Or spend big bucks and go twin disc.
Again... up to you.
Any more brain busters?
That is surely an over kill build if I ever seen one.. Maybe 450whp on an AWD mustang dyno lol..
IMO I'd go with an FP Green....
And as for the list that is up to you man...
Like Die and Gsil said there is just way too much to list...
You have to decide what you really need and think works in your equation....
And as for the list that is up to you man...
Like Die and Gsil said there is just way too much to list...
You have to decide what you really need and think works in your equation....
I would agree with asmo again on this one- however, get the 950cc~1000cc, DSMLink can easily compensate- but you have that sorted. Get a decent AFPR, and sport the 255HP. -6 as stated is perfect, with ARP's/MLS gasket- your factory long block ( considering excellent maintance) should be for 450ish, but once again consider your reliablity quest. You are interested in a fast street car, so you want casted pistons, several companies have casted forged pistons as ASMO was referring too. On pump gas, you will really want to consider an injection kit, several places have good kits- I run the standard SNOW kit. The FP3052 will get the numbers you want, Cams are going to be preferred at the number, and if you can afford it, go with SMIM/ and a huge FMIC core.
ASMO- whats the site you use for the valves- that deal sounds pretty good?
ASMO- whats the site you use for the valves- that deal sounds pretty good?
Snow Perf ftmfw.
www.engnbldr.com
Just email Ted and tell him Dustin sent you.
He'll take care of ya.
www.engnbldr.com
Just email Ted and tell him Dustin sent you.
He'll take care of ya.
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