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Bad Knocking Help!!!

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#22 ·
97EclipseGSTer said:
your going to just have to pull the head off... if your valves are bent and tapping the pistons and you toss another belt and run it... you could do more damage... honestly, if someone on these forums notices that there timing went off and they can hear "clacking", the first thing we do is rip the head off... and while your add it, toss in a New headgasket and some arp bolts if you havent already... That gives you an excuse to clean out the head, make sure everything is TRUELY fine... if valves aren't bent... then good, you can save money to buy a h/g and arp bolts... i don't know what your funds are how important it is for the car to be running... but my .02 cents
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if there is good compression than there is no need to pull the head. recommend replacing the belt with an oem (forget the kevlar, it is a waste of money)And after you get the timing set and everything put back together, check compression, if it is within spec than there is no need to pull the head.

By the way the bigger hole on the 3g lifters has nothing to do with how much oil gets into the lifter. It is only so that the lifters don't get so much gunk in them. They don'y get clogged, if they did than the lifter would prime up all the way, and you would have valve in piston. The passage is limited anyways by the hole in the rocker. I have still found no need for 3g lifters, if you know how to clean the stockers.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
As of Saturday, Feb 24th, the car is done and running. My whole problem was the timing belt. It seemed that whom ever did the timing belt on the car a couple years back, didn't know about the tensioner pulley. It was loose and flipped and let the timing jump. I'm really glad I didn't bend any valves, as a matter of fact the timing was a bit off before I installed the belt, not I call it my little GLOCK, I swear it feels like the sensetive trigger on a glock. As soon as I put a bit of pressure on the pedal it goes, FAST. I'd really like to send a huge thanks to Rick or the helping out and all the pneumatic tools, and to everyone here who kept writing in suggestions and tips, I don't think I'd have the car running to day with out all the help. :banana:
 
#25 ·
Congrats, im doing a complete motor rebuild because i had that sound in the video up top...but my problem was indeed the main bearing...anyway i wont have my car for 10 days...my dad and i are gonna work on it, we ordered brand new nippon racing pistons w/ eagle rods, taking the bottom/head to a machine shop to get worked on, and thats about it...anyways congrats on getting your car back wish me luck ;)
 
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#26 ·
are you rebuilding that 7 bolt after it had bearing problems? No offence, but it is going to have those problems again. I would highly reccomend that you get a 1g 7 bolt, or a 6 bolt. Or get some main dowels, have the mains cut and re bored, use arp main studs, get a brand new crank, and at all cost remove the oil squiters.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I have a friend who's on his 2nd 98 GST, his philosophy is, If you have 157000 miles on your car and it shows no signs of crankwalk..you should be OK.
(BTW: he sold the first GST cause he had to not wanted to, now a fresh stocker is on for mods)
 
#30 ·
Well the whole block is going to a machine shop...i am replacing the crank...i was gonna buy a supposedly mint 6 bolt from some guy but im not sure if want to do that because, i can rebuilt it with fresh new parts...and getting another 6bolt off another 95 is just retarded because that will eventually crank walk on my ass too...so uhh yea i have a 95 tsi and yea its most famous for crank walking...tsk tsk....but hey im buying a 7bolt jdm in the summer...so might as well rebuild this and drop it in my other dsm and just drop the 7bolt in this one...
 
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#33 ·
No they don't walk, only the usdm, 95+ have the problem. They were the only ones to switch the oil squirters to the different spot, 1g 7 bolts, and jdm 7 bolts have the squirters in the same location of the 6 bolt.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Oh crap sorry i just saw what i wrote lol...i ment the other way around...but i mean if i replace the crank/bearings rods, pistons, it should be fine i believe right, i mean would i still crank walk later on if i did all that?
 
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