ok the sub i want only runs at 135 rms and the amp i want puts out 165 rms so will that blow the sub? what if i just ran 2 smaller subs (2 10in instead of 1 12) that run at like 125 rms each? will the amp put out enough for both?
im kinda new at the whole audio side of things...
AKGEN1DSM
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ok the sub i want only runs at 135 rms and the amp i want puts out 165 rms so will that blow the sub? what if i just ran 2 smaller subs (2 10in instead of 1 12) that run at like 125 rms each? will the amp put out enough for both?
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Several things here. First, please in the future use the shift key. Second just keep the gain down. It is better to run an amp that has a rms rating between the speakers rms and peak then it is to run an amp that is below the speakers rms rating. Third, why are you running a sub that can only handle 135 watts rms? Did you get this stuff for free or something?
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More power is better...PERIOD! You can run a 1000watt amp on a speaker that is "rated" at 100watts. Speaker ratings are numbers...that's all. They have absolutely no bearing what-so-ever on quality or quantity of the sound or the power of the amplifier that can run them. If anything, you should take the speakers power rating as a minimum amp power to run it.
And finally, not all amplifiers are created (or rated) equal. 99% of the time, the higher priced amplifier from a reputable name will provide more power no matter what the tag on that no named paper weight says. Buy quality the first time and you won't need to buy anything a second.
And finally, not all amplifiers are created (or rated) equal. 99% of the time, the higher priced amplifier from a reputable name will provide more power no matter what the tag on that no named paper weight says. Buy quality the first time and you won't need to buy anything a second.
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Walmart? omfg:wall:AKGEN1DSM said:
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Ok, first off what equipment are you running? Second power ratings mean alot!!!! If they are true ratings. For example....An Alpine type E sub will handle 150 rms and 300 max. That is a true rating, so if you throw a "true" 1,000 watt amp at it you will have a toasted sub in prolly 2 to 3 days. If you put a "true" 300 watt amp and run it full out you will abuse the sub and amp together. Now if you take a "true" 400 watt amp and keep it at a 3/4 level you won't be abusing your equipment. It also depends on if you are running a ported or a sealed box. A sealed box will need more power than a ported box to produce the same sound. Look for the amp and sub to have a national rating on it for true power. Some amps say that they are rated for 1,000 watts and they are really only putting out 400 distorted watts. Make sure you do your research on your equipment before you buy it. If you buy cheap stuff you'll get a cheap sound.
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Dont go by watts on anything these days anymore, its just to find out how high they can so-called "peak" for example power surges or spikes in electricty, What you really want to look for is the rms in both the amps and the subwoofer, honestly i wouldnt buy anything at wal-mart mainly because its not exactly "quality" stuff, even their wiring kits begin to shred and loosen up over time. Just look on the net, an Alpine type E 12'' sub will run you 80 dollars, and in a hatch it sounds twice as good as a trunk. Get that, build your own box in home depot, and buy a decent amp, even hifonics on ebay i read gave VERY quality stuff for your dollar. All in all the system is only as good as the work and money you put into it, but lemme tell you my assistant manager where i work put 2 type E 12'' subs wired to 2 alpine mono class d amps both for around 350-400 dollars, and his system is more than enough for me, someone who likes his headphones screaming at him =) good luck bro n have fun!
-Aaron
-Aaron
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If you are going to Walmart for your subs might as well check out your local swapmeet.
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or kragen/schucks/checker:wall:Eclipse480 said:
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