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16g-95GSX

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just curious how much are times affected when running very rich?
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Come one people
 
A lot. When I was tuning with my 550s and AFC, I noticed a huge difference. There was a almost a half second difference between .94v and .89v. Thats a pretty big difference. Tuning definatley makes a huge improvement in times.
 
well, my o2s were at .99-1.02v
I ran 14.5 @ 97mph

I took the 2 side honeycombs out, my o2s dropped a little to .98-.99v which increased my timing a tad also. (still RICH though)
I ran 14.3 @ 99mph. extra 3mph just from removing the HCs. I'd like to see what happens if I ever lean it out to normal. I'm still confused on to why I am really rich...I haven't done anything thats a big deal yet.
 
I do not have personal knowledge on this subject, but this is what I know. ( I have never owned a AFC, never owned one long enough) My buddy Patrick was running so fucking rich one night that we decided it was safe to turn up his boost. We turned his boost up to 17psi on pump gas. He has some mods, but not too many. We were shitting on everyhting we came around. He had virtually no knock and his car was runnning faster than shit! If you are running REALLY rich, turn the boost up like 2 more psi and feel the rush!!!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Well I am getting 14mpg so yea I am guessing that I am running really rich =). Im not gonna mess with it just yet, at least not until I get a good EGT gauge or even a datalogger. I'm just curious how much this affects a car. Keep posting.
 
14 mpg... lol whats your compression like 20 psi?

seriously though... running rich slows you down a big amount. I dont know for sure, but when I get my EGT guage in a few days I'll probably be able to tell you. Most people with fuel mods (550+, FP, AFC) will notice at least a half second from well tuned to running rich do to not having the right tuning stuff.

BTW, 14 mpg doesn't make sense, your ECU should compensate (up to 20% rich or lean) for fuel mods when just crusing. Does your car sputter and bog when you get on it WOT? Cause if I run real rich I can get my car to do that.

Murray
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I have a modified ECU, so no it doesn't at all. I believe that the 14mpg was caused by a disconnected ground wire in the downpipe area, I just fixed it about a week ago and it seems that I'm getting close to 20-22mpg now. The only thing that amazes me is that my stock injectors could even push that much gas. At first I thought the previous owner must have replaced them with 550's or larger but I checked them out and they are stockers.

By the way how do I go about having a compression test?
 
Compression checking...

Most shops could do it, for probably about $50. Otherwise, it is very easy to do your self. I will outline it veyr quickly, but you there is a vfaq written for it. http://www.vfaq.com
You need a compression checker (can get one at autozone, napa, etc), Spark plug socket, Maybe a friend.

- Drive the car around a bit so that it goes into the normal operating temperature.
- Remove the spark plug cover
- Pull the wires off the plugs
- Pull out ALL the plugs, becareful they are HOT!!
- Remove the MPI Fuse so that the fuel system doesn't activate.
-Now attach the compression checker into the first cylinder you want to check (i do left to right). If you have a good compression checker it will screw right, just like plugs do.
-Now go in the car, press the petal to the floor, and crank the starter over until the needle on the compression checker stops going up. This is where a friend comes in handy, because he can tell you when it stopped, otherwise usually about 8 cranks it good.
-Read the compression number and move on to the other cylinders.
-When you are done, put back the plugs. (might as well replace them if they need it)
-Put back the wires, and DON'T FORGET to put back the MPI fuse, because your car won't be going to far without it
- Put back the spark plug cover if you want.

Ground Strap:
Ground strap is used to ground the 02 sensor so that it gives more accurate readings. Take a large clamp and a "ground wire" (can find both at napa, pep boys, etc) and use the clamp to hold the ground strap to the downpipe (usually right after the flange) and connect the otherside to the frame or block.

Good luck

Murray
Bored at work...
 
wouldn't turning up the boost more lean out the car more if you were running rich?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Yea
 
adam93tsi said:
wouldn't turning up the boost more lean out the car more if you were running rich?
NO! This is not the way it works! The MAF reads the extra airflow and sends this to the ECU. The ECU sees this and increases the injector pulsewidth to match the extra airflow. This is assuming that you have enough MAF, fuel flow and injector headroom, of course.

Assuming that you have large enough injectors, a big enough fuel pump, and are not hitting MAF overrun, you can turn up the boost in your car without having to richen up the AFC!

A lot of guys don't know this and then wonder why their cars run slow when they turn up the boost and richen up their AFCs. There is NO NEED to touch the AFC when turning up the boost on the same gas as before. You will have the same level of richness in the cylinder, if not more rich than before, since the ECU is conservative.

As for how my car runs when it is dead rich as opposed to leaned out? I went to the track and ran 99mph in my car by dumping in 117 octane without leaning it out. Later that night, I leaned it out and ran 108mph.
 
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