I have a JMF Race SMIM and I was wondering on how you did your UICP. If you could share some pics and some info, it would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone have a SSauto FMIC with a Magnus/JMF SMIM?
IggyBcool
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928 Posts
I have the SSAC FMIC kit and a Magnus... I will go take some pics for you helmet nazi... I had to mod the pipes.
When I first swaped the Magnus in I just cut a 8" peice out of the upper pipe and used a 1ft 2.5" NAPA radiator hose to fill the gap, it was ghetto but it got me to the track that night and held up fine for about 3 more months. I finnally just changed up the pipes a little bit and it is good now. I will return with some pic in a lil bit.
When I first swaped the Magnus in I just cut a 8" peice out of the upper pipe and used a 1ft 2.5" NAPA radiator hose to fill the gap, it was ghetto but it got me to the track that night and held up fine for about 3 more months. I finnally just changed up the pipes a little bit and it is good now. I will return with some pic in a lil bit.
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928 Posts
Kinda like I needed a Temp helmet... Ok, I will let it go.
If you need something temp than do what I said, cut about 6-8 inches off the uicp inbetween the BOV and the TB flange. Go to NAPA and buy 1ft. of 2.5" i.d. radiator hose, it is $15 per ft. Use that to bridge the gap inbetween the two, You may have to greese it up and push it far down on pipe and then slide it up on to the other pipe. It works really well. The stuff from napa is reinforced with metal. I did it as a temp fix and then kept it like that for a few months. Just boost leak test it.
I am going to look for a pic so you can see how it used to be with the 1 ft. coupler.
If you need something temp than do what I said, cut about 6-8 inches off the uicp inbetween the BOV and the TB flange. Go to NAPA and buy 1ft. of 2.5" i.d. radiator hose, it is $15 per ft. Use that to bridge the gap inbetween the two, You may have to greese it up and push it far down on pipe and then slide it up on to the other pipe. It works really well. The stuff from napa is reinforced with metal. I did it as a temp fix and then kept it like that for a few months. Just boost leak test it.
I am going to look for a pic so you can see how it used to be with the 1 ft. coupler.
it is supposed to have a stud. but i think newdsmmans idea could work. and i would have to take a lot of stuff back apart to take a pic, i may in a few days when i break something else. but anyway, on the motor mount....there are like 2 or 3 holes, i just cut them off with a sawzall until i could get the tb elbow to go on and have clearance for the coupler, not really any clearance though. VERY tight fit.
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721 Posts
hey frank when you moving to GA and why?
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