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compression test numbers plus cap of oil in cylinder numbers

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1G-TalonES

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
ok from divers side to pass side

NO Oil 125,121,121,120 Cap of oil 145,145,145,135

well i just done a re-ring job awhile back but i take it I never got them gapped right. or the motor was bored before i got it and didn't know it.

ok my next question is, are their any possible way of doin a re-ring job with the head on the car? I know this is a pretty darn stupid question but worth a try.

Danny
 
#3 ·
How did you seat the rings? Did they hone the cyls again or just put new rings on the pistons? Ring gaps don't usually cause the probs you're seeing.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
yes i used the ball flex hone to hone the cylinder walls and it is a 6-bolt turbo motor. I dont got a lift available and I'm not paying the garage price to do it. so I'll put it up on jack stands and do it that way, I dont think that it should need honed again. I dont wanna take the head off b/c i dont got the money for a full gasket kit. but in order to use a gauge to see if it's been bored I will have to take the head off correct?

Also the only time it smokes is when I rev it hard or when I get on it really hard. I have had 3 different turbo's on it and replaced the valve seats twice. and no boost leaks what so ever.

Danny
 
#5 ·
shott17 said:
Of course, If you dont need to hone the cylinders. Put it on a lift, and drop the oil pan. You'll have to watch out for the oil squirters, unless its a N/T.
Click to expand...
You simply can't pull the pistons thru the bottom, have you ever had a 4g63 apart? The casting for the mains is in the way slightly, also the crank would have to be removed, which means that the oil pump, tranny, flywheel, and rear main seal would have to be removed also. This is not correct information.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
as far as seating the rings I found a guide somewhere on here and used it which was get goin bout 50 and then start downshifting allowing the vacuum to seat the rings or some kinda concept like that the motor only has approx 5000 miles on the rebuild.
 
#7 ·
1G-TalonES said:
yes i used the ball flex hone to hone the cylinder walls and it is a 6-bolt turbo motor. I dont got a lift available and I'm not paying the garage price to do it. so I'll put it up on jack stands and do it that way, I dont think that it should need honed again. I dont wanna take the head off b/c i dont got the money for a full gasket kit. but in order to use a gauge to see if it's been bored I will have to take the head off correct?

Also the only time it smokes is when I rev it hard or when I get on it really hard. I have had 3 different turbo's on it and replaced the valve seats twice. and no boost leaks what so ever.

Danny
Click to expand...
First off, when you remove the head you only need to replace the head gasket. The v/c gaskets are reusable. And you can leave the intake manifold bolted on so that you don't have to replace the gasket. Do a leak down test, before you start ripping things apart. And you aren't going to be able to pull the pistons from the bottom. That guy was super incorrect.
 
#8 ·
1G-TalonES said:
as far as seating the rings I found a guide somewhere on here and used it which was get goin bout 50 and then start downshifting allowing the vacuum to seat the rings or some kinda concept like that the motor only has approx 5000 miles on the rebuild.
Click to expand...
The rings are seated by the texture on the cylinder walls from honing.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
well I just replaced the head not even 200 miles ago b/c timing belt snapped, their has been 2-3 different heads on this block and they all done the same exact thing it has to be something in the bottom end.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I agree it is, but maybe i did not get the rings gaped correctly. b/c i put the rings around the piston took a pair of side dikes and cut them off then filed them down so they were barely touching. didn't have the correct tools to do it and I had to have a vehicle.
 
#14 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
You simply can't pull the pistons thru the bottom, have you ever had a 4g63 apart? The casting for the mains is in the way slightly, also the crank would have to be removed, which means that the oil pump, tranny, flywheel, and rear main seal would have to be removed also. This is not correct information.
Click to expand...

Of course not. It was meant to be sarcasm, actually I had another part in there but was dealing with IM's and shit at the same time.

My post was supposed to read as such,

Of course, If you dont need to hone the cylinders. Put it on a lift, and drop the oil pan. You'll have to watch out for the oil squirters, unless its a N/T.

That is of course if you want to deal with every thing accept the head.


HAHA my bad. I guess when im being an ass I should make sure my post is complete huh?
 
#16 ·
Pouring a cap of oil down the cylinder on these motors, or any motor with a recessed dish will not accurately tell you if the rings are worn. Reason is when you put the oil down it just runs down into the bowl on the top of your piston, thus raising the compression.. You must somehow get the oil to run down the wall and onto the rings.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Burnett03 said:
Pouring a cap of oil down the cylinder on these motors, or any motor with a recessed dish will not accurately tell you if the rings are worn. Reason is when you put the oil down it just runs down into the bowl on the top of your piston, thus raising the compression.. You must somehow get the oil to run down the wall and onto the rings.
Click to expand...

Well how do I do this?
 
#19 ·
1G-TalonES said:
I agree it is, but maybe i did not get the rings gaped correctly. b/c i put the rings around the piston took a pair of side dikes and cut them off then filed them down so they were barely touching. didn't have the correct tools to do it and I had to have a vehicle.
Click to expand...

Um....yeah...
 
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