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My g4cs 2.4 build

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#64 ·
My car has 4000 or so miles on it with polished crank. 20,000 mile crank car rearended engine didn't die in donor car. I spin mine to 8000 regularly although usually shift at low 7000 range. I have launched at 5000 stutterbox. I am in boost a lot when playing with the car 20 to 25 psi or so range so far. I also know a few other guys that ran the 2.4 and had no problems. I think most breakage was guys turning the cranks, revving way past 8000 ,stuff like that. I will go forged eagle though if ever have the engine out for rebuild.Can't hurt to have a forged crank.
 
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#65 ·
Well my good luck ended today on my 2.4 .Last few days it seems like clutch is slipping sometimes car would rev off the line but not really move.
But it seemed to not slip when did higher gear punches.Weird.
Then today after making a few time runs which were terrible for mph and not so good for et either I headed home. And car started to make a rattling type of noise but only past 3000rpm or so. I was miles from no where no cell phone and drove it into town. I got like eight blocks from my house I was babying it trying to stay under 3000rpm.
It died again on me and didn't want to restart.The starter just made sound like engine was stuck.
flatbedded it home.
Now started it up and it did start but didn't run worth crap. I took off timing top cover and it looks like my marks are completely whacked which would make me thing it slipped huge but the belt itself is nearly new with 4000 miles on it and ditto all the tensioner stuff. I took off valve cover and can see nothing out of ordinary there. Can you see bent valves by looking from the valve cover down? would think you have to pull the heads. The car is not seized but not sure how to proceed. It seems pointless to try to set timing marks to spec if the valves are bent now. Might as well pull the head and check. Also since my car is a 2.4 swap into a 2g how do you set the timing belt as pretty sure that tool don't work now think I read. Is there another way to do it..? I hope don't have to pull engine to set the timing?
Anyone with 2.4 like to enlighten me if you can do the timing belt without pulling the engine. Also curious as to what could make the timing belt skip lots and lots of teeth.Belt seems 100% fine. I still will have to see just how much timing belt is out of whack in next day or so. And wondering if the 2.4 depending on piston dish would still hit like a 2.0. Maybe its not interference anymore?
 
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Discussion starter · #66 ·
:eek:

I think they can hit just the same, but I dunno. It can jump a few teeth (2-3)with out hitting a valve. Maybe you will just get lucky and the valves wil be ok? How do the dowels look that locate the cam sprocket? Any chance that any of the other gears/idlers may have came loose? Is the timing tensioner idler adjusted properly? Maybe the idler was loose to the point that you ran out of run on the hydraulic tensioner?

Also, we have seen brand new tensioners go bad at my work. As far as the belts, if you cant get the tool in to relax the tensioner, you should be able to just un bolt the tensioner, colapse it in a vice, put a pin back in, then reset timing marks and release the tensioner.
 
#67 ·
I have more investigation to do to be sure whats up if its timing belt jumped or if its maybe bearing failure. Neither sounds fun but think valves and head would be easier. Wonder if my cometic gasket is resusable. Not a big deal on that though really.
 
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#68 ·
AL92 said:
. Also since my car is a 2.4 swap into a 2g how do you set the timing belt as pretty sure that tool don't work now think I read. Is there another way to do it..? I hope don't have to pull engine to set the timing?
Anyone with 2.4 like to enlighten me if you can do the timing belt without pulling the engine. Also curious as to what could make the timing belt skip lots and lots of teeth.Belt seems 100% fine. I still will have to see just how much timing belt is out of whack in next day or so. And wondering if the 2.4 depending on piston dish would still hit like a 2.0. Maybe its not interference anymore?
Click to expand...
Remove the drivers side motor mount, put a piece of plywood under the oil pan and jack the engine up a bit to help you reach everything on the drivers side. Remove the drivers side wheel and splash guard. To set the timing put your tensioner into place and get everything set up as you normally would. Instead of using the tool to set the tension, I use a pair of bent nose pliers. The trick is to tighten down the tension pulley enough so that you can still turn it with some effort with the pliers but it wont move too much under tension from the belt. I then put the pliers into the two holes on the tensioner pulley and turn the crap out of it. Then you can tighten it down as normal. At this point the belt should be so tight that when you pull the pin on the tensioner it should hardly move.

Yes, your engine is still very much an interference engine. There's no way to get around it in a 4g63, that's if you want it to run well. You probably have a bad tensioner or the tensioner pulley slipped if the timing jumped.

Good luck
 
#69 ·
AL92 said:
. Also since my car is a 2.4 swap into a 2g how do you set the timing belt as pretty sure that tool don't work now think I read. Is there another way to do it..? I hope don't have to pull engine to set the timing?
Anyone with 2.4 like to enlighten me if you can do the timing belt without pulling the engine. Also curious as to what could make the timing belt skip lots and lots of teeth.Belt seems 100% fine. I still will have to see just how much timing belt is out of whack in next day or so. And wondering if the 2.4 depending on piston dish would still hit like a 2.0. Maybe its not interference anymore?
Click to expand...
Remove the drivers side motor mount, put a piece of plywood under the oil pan and jack the engine up a bit to help you reach everything on the drivers side. Remove the drivers side wheel and splash guard. Instead of using the tool to set the tension, I use a pair of bent nose pliers. The trick is to tighten down the tension pulley enough so that you can still turn it with some effort with the pliers but it wont move too much under tension from the belt. I then put the pliers into the two holes on the tensioner pulley and turn the crap out of it. Then you can tighten it down as normal. At this point the belt should be so tight that when you pull the pin on the tensioner it should hardly move.

Yes, your engine is still very much an interference engine. There's no way to get around it in a 4g63, that's if you want it to run well. You probably have a bad tensioner or the tensioner pulley slipped if the timing jumped.

Good luck
 
Discussion starter · #70 ·
AL92 said:
I have more investigation to do to be sure whats up if its timing belt jumped or if its maybe bearing failure. Neither sounds fun but think valves and head would be easier. Wonder if my cometic gasket is resusable. Not a big deal on that though really.
Click to expand...
A buddy of mine re-used his cometic ONCE on his 2.0. But apparentley Felpro makes a head gasket now that is always re-usable. They boast the design is better than cometic. It's part number 1153-1, just an idea im looking into, but we will see. Need to research it more.
 
#71 ·
I used new mits tensioner and tensioner pulley when did it about 5000 miles ago. If it would quit raining and even snowing a bit and warm up I could at least try to figure out whats with it.
 
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Discussion starter · #74 ·
So I got a good one for anybody who can help. Ive read about possibly having to drill or weld in coolant galleys in the deck of 2.4 blocks. Some say the g4cs doesnt need any modification and the g464 may.

But today I finnally tore down my 2.0 and lined up the head gasket on the g4cs. There are 3 small coolant holes that are not in the block that are on my 2.0 and head. Here are pics, do I need to drill them?

Image
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The yellow dots are the missing holes
 
#77 ·
I have not touched my 97 talon .Its dead in the garage. Not sure when will get to it to figure out what is wrecked. My main theory is I killed it by using 90 oil filter housing blocked off with plugs and no oil cooler and didnt' take out the therm bypass. I also ported the oil relief housing. So think oil starvation wiped out some bearings. Thats my current theory. Can't be bothered to even pull the pan am working on my other projects, 99 trans am twin turbo, 91 talon auto awd turbo dedicated race car and trying to get my 91 laser fwd turbo and my 90 talon awd turbo running good and sell them to raise money for my main projects.
I love my 97 talon it was screaming fast at even 21psi with the FP3065 and my mods and will fix it up but maybe not till next spring. I want to do a trans , dss axles and 4 spider and eagle crank. No weak links this time around with any luck. Oh and likely new twin disc clutch like cluthmasters fx600 street twin.
 
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Discussion starter · #78 ·
Whiteonyx86 said:
i have a g64b...all my holes lined up perfect, kind of a bad picture but you can make out the holes

Image


kind of a bad picture but you can make out the holes
Click to expand...

I dont think they are there? What does a g64b come from? What differences does it have from a g4cs?
 
#79 · (Edited)
Archertsi said:
I dont think they are there? What does a g64b come from? What differences does it have from a g4cs?
Click to expand...
come out of the 86-88 galants and its a 6 bolt 2.4...and yes all of the holes line up..im not sure on the differences between the g4cs, id rather not spread mis-information so im not sure....but i have seen the answers in PLENTY of threads...try tuners as well. Just take whatever you read with a grain of salt and realize the sources you are getting it from...what it will come down to is what YOU need to do to make it work.

AL92...

why would you do something like that...run your filter housing intended for use with an air cooler and blocking it off...lol maybe just take your coolant hoses off and block those off too?....and are you implying that since you ported your oil relief that it and other things are the cause for your failure?
 
#80 ·
I read a few guys that run no oil cooler no problem but think they have 91 and newer style housing. And I just didn't realize suppose to take out bypass if want to block off the oil cooler. You can only research so much.
I was going to do a cooler just put it off as didn't get the 90 lines and cooler with the housing. I was going to get fancy braided lines and big impressive cooler but just never happened. I did drive the car like 4500 miles before lost the engine. So sort of figured things were ok. And not sure if porting the oil relief hurt the situation more or not. This is not clear cut stuff. There are opinions on porting versus not porting. opinions on taking out the balance shafts, etc.etc. Something killed the motor and figured my mistake on the oil cooler was big cause. Everyone wants me to dissect it now but not into it right now. It will have to come out of car anyway and it will get properly dissected and rebuilt. hopefully not repeat the mistakes I made last time around.
For all I know my crank broke. Just can't say yet. But the noise from the engine is not a good sound and haven't run it since heard it sounding like that. Trying to not do more damage.
 
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