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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I connected everything (breather and PCV) the way they are originally connected from the factory. THey are no longer just vented to the atmosphere with a catch can. I am hoping the vacuum will take care of everything now. I could not drive the car tonight but will give it a try tomorrow.
 
Asmodeus said:
All this over a fucking dipstick? Dear christ... :rolleyes:
Do any of you guys OWN DSM's? :confused:

Take a pair of pliers... give the tube a slight squeeze with the stick in it...
Problem solved.
Sorry Asmo, I respectfully disagree, that is absolutely the worst thing one can do in this situation and can lead to multiple issues by forcing excessive pressure to go elsewhere, mainly turbo seal, valve seals, engine seals and gaskets. Pinching or clamping your dipstick tube shut is like disabling your boost gauge and pretend you're not creeping. :p
 
oldman said:
Sorry Asmo, I respectfully disagree, that is absolutely the worst thing one can do in this situation and can lead to multiple issues by forcing excessive pressure to go elsewhere, mainly turbo seal, valve seals, engine seals and gaskets. Pinching or clamping your dipstick tube shut is like disabling your boost gauge and pretend you're not creeping. :p
Not shut buddy. Just the ever so slightest tweak to get it to grab an aging dipstick. By no means do I suggest crunching it to the point of air-tighted-ness. But after they get some time and miles on them (like your mom) they get a little sloppy and need a little help.
;)
:p
 
Asmodeus said:
But after they get some time and miles on them (like your mom) they get a little sloppy and need a little help.
;)
:p
Little!!!? :confused: She is 70 years old and had six kids, she is probably more than a little sloppy. :D

OP, new engine = more blowby until rings properly seat themselves against cylinder walls. How many miles and how are you breaking in? PCV to IM and breather to intake pipe? Have you done a compression test since the rebuilt? Have you pressure tested the intake tract to make sure you're not leaking pressure air into the crankcase?
 
Asmodeus said:
Not shut buddy. Just the ever so slightest tweak to get it to grab an aging dipstick. By no means do I suggest crunching it to the point of air-tighted-ness. But after they get some time and miles on them (like your mom) they get a little sloppy and need a little help.
;)
:p
You were just complaining about all the talk about a simple dipstick poping out yet you have twice as many post as many in this thread....meaning, well you get it. LOL :rolleyes:

I am sure the op has his problem solved now.
 
newlitemotorist said:
You were just complaining about all the talk about a simple dipstick poping out yet you have twice as many post as many in this thread....meaning, well you get it. LOL :rolleyes:

I am sure the op has his problem solved now.
Here's another one...
Because when Oldman "respectfully disagrees" it means I need to clarify something I said for him.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
oldman said:
Little!!!? :confused: She is 70 years old and had six kids, she is probably more than a little sloppy. :D

OP, new engine = more blowby until rings properly seat themselves against cylinder walls. How many miles and how are you breaking in? PCV to IM and breather to intake pipe? Have you done a compression test since the rebuilt? Have you pressure tested the intake tract to make sure you're not leaking pressure air into the crankcase?


The car has about 10 miles since the rebuild. I have not done a compression test exactly because I wanted the rings to seat good and then get a good reading. Doing the compression test from the beggining could give me low readings especially because hte rings are not seated, right? :confused:

The PCV is connected to the IM now. Before it was a straight through connector with a hose leading to underneath the car to vent. THe IM was shut off so it doesn't leak boost. The breather was also vented through a catch can. Now it's connected to the intake side of the turbo.
I haven't tested the intake tract. I haven't done a boost leak test even, since I am not even boosting anything yet. (7psi :p )
How can I check if I am leaking pressure air into the crackcase? From or through where would that air get into the crackcase?

I also need to set my timing, because when I put everything together I set to dead-even zero. I know OEM it's on the 10 mark so I need to advance it.
 
Just instal a Krankvent kit; it will solve your problem and probably give you another 7hp.
Your pcv valve is not closing properly letting the boost go thru it building pressure inside the engine. You are probably burning a bit of oil thru the valve seals until the oil dip stick pops out.
That is a common thing on Mitsu engines when you increase the boost over stock.

Hope this helps.

Trilogy Turbos
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Where can I get this Krankvent kit?
 
Trilogy Turbos said:
Your pcv valve is not closing properly letting the boost go thru it building pressure inside the engine. You are probably burning a bit of oil thru the valve seals until the oil dip stick pops out.
That is a common thing on Mitsu engines when you increase the boost over stock.

Hope this helps.

Trilogy Turbos
Just incase you missed it. His dipstick popped out when the PCV valve was not installed nor was the crank case breather. Also he is only running 7psi of boost right now as he is breaking in his motor.

OP - replace the dipstick or atleast the two orings and drive her again the same way that caused the dipstick to pop out before. I have a little over 3500 miles on a brand new engine and never once popped out the dip stick but my orings are good and my pcv and breather hoses are hooked up correctly.
 
4wd-Eclipse said:
I think Asmo is mad at me. :D Where is that crankcase ventilation diagram of yours that you have been posting all over the internetz? :p

90GSTBOOSTED said:
Where can I get this Krankvent kit?
No need for that. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177223

90GSTBOOSTED said:
I haven't tested the intake tract. I haven't done a boost leak test even, since I am not even boosting anything yet. (7psi )
How can I check if I am leaking pressure air into the crackcase? From or through where would that air get into the crackcase?
Listen for hissing sound under the valve cover (open your oil cap) while pressuring the intake tract from the TB elbow, key components are PCV valve (study the above link for remedy), intake valve seals and piston ring. ALWAYS PERFORM A BLT REGULARLY!!!!

90GSTBOOSTED said:
I also need to set my timing, because when I put everything together I set to dead-even zero. I know OEM it's on the 10 mark so I need to advance it.
Are you confusing valve timing with ignition timing?
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
RE's 97 gs-t said:
Just incase you missed it. His dipstick popped out when the PCV valve was not installed nor was the crank case breather. Also he is only running 7psi of boost right now as he is breaking in his motor.

OP - replace the dipstick or atleast the two orings and drive her again the same way that caused the dipstick to pop out before. I have a little over 3500 miles on a brand new engine and never once popped out the dip stick but my orings are good and my pcv and breather hoses are hooked up correctly.

Thanks.
I put new o-rings on the dipstick and now it goes in fairly tight. I don't think it will come out very easy. Everything is hooked up right also.

I am thinking that my timing is off slightly, since my car boosts around the 7-8 psi only after 4500 rpm. I figure the timing must be off, since i set it to 0' and it should be at +10, correct??
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
oldman said:
I think Asmo is mad at me. :D Where is that crankcase ventilation diagram of yours that you have been posting all over the internetz? :p


No need for that. http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177223


Listen for hissing sound under the valve cover (open your oil cap) while pressuring the intake tract from the TB elbow, key components are PCV valve (study the above link for remedy), intake valve seals and piston ring. ALWAYS PERFORM A BLT REGULARLY!!!!


Are you confusing valve timing with ignition timing?
I think I am!!! I am stupider than I though. I have to educate myself a bit more. Everything else is real easy for me but I have always avoided dealing with timing adjustment.
Either way though, the -10, 0, and +10 on the timing cover are used for adjusting the ignition timing, correct? Having the timing not adjusted right could cause the turbo not to boost right, correct? My logger took a crap on me from not being used for 4 months so I am in the process of fixing it. Until I get it to work properly so I can see the actual timing I am not starting the car. If someone can still clarify all this timing confusion for me that would be more helpful than anything else.

Thanks guys for all your help so far!
 
90GSTBOOSTED said:
I also need to set my timing, because when I put everything together I set to dead-even zero. I know OEM it's on the 10 mark so I need to advance it.
Explain in detail what this mean so we know how you're confused. How did you set it to 0?
 
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