I'm trying to test for a boost leak, but all the pressure is just dumping out of my VC breather hose. Is this due to me not having my motor at TDC? I tried bumping it over a few times, and I bumped it a couple times and then it didn't even build pressure at all. What's the problem?
Boost leak from the valve cover breather?
nad
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
yes, i recommend running the husky air filter which is also listed in the other thread. you can pick those up from home depot. just go back and re-read the second post.. here is the link to the thread:nad said:
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177223
:huh: blah... poor advice given here... this is NOT the best answer:wall:Arctic_GST said:
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
also, if this is in reference to the usplastic check valve listed, they have been pressure tested to 60psi and held just fine. i didnt really feel the need to test beyond that but they say they will hold 120psi.Arctic_GST said:
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Well I went to Advance Auto Parts and got a replacement PCV and it works better than the one I had. I'm sure it won't last long though, since the one I had before had only been on there for like 4 months.
I will be ordering that check valve tonight, so that I will have a new PCV and a check valve in place as well. Thanks for your help green_bread.
I will be ordering that check valve tonight, so that I will have a new PCV and a check valve in place as well. Thanks for your help green_bread.
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Also, what local board are you on? I didn't know there was a local Missouri board.
And what did you use the two metal barbs for shown in the picture? Should I keep my VC breather setup seperate from the PCV setup, or should I run them together, through the same catch can?
And what did you use the two metal barbs for shown in the picture? Should I keep my VC breather setup seperate from the PCV setup, or should I run them together, through the same catch can?
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
no problem, man.. let me know if you have any more problems with it!nad said:
*i was only suggesting not replacing the pcv valve because when you add in the check vavle, it takes care of the function of the pcv not working under boost conditions. for the vacuum operation, it doesnt have to do anything except be there.. lol
Joined
·
170 Posts
First off! Kiss my ASS!!!green_bread said:
Secondly There's No actual Need for a catch can between the PVC & Intake...:wall: And if you use the "PROPER" PCV in the First place??? There is NO-NEED for a Back-up, Secondary valve...:wall:
Running 21-22 psi on pump, and 27 psi on race, my OEM PCV holds just fine...
I'll take OEM pieces over Home Depot "HACKS" every chance I can...
Just in case you missed the first line???
KISS MY ASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
there are a couple local boards that im on:nad said:
midmosr.com has a lot of guys from the columbia/jefferson city and surrounding areas.
dsm.turbology.com is a local dsm board that im on, however, there is never much going on around there... most of those guys just post on midmosr.
you screw the two barb fittings in to the husky filter/catch can if you decide to run one on the IM to PCV hose. here is how your setup should look:nad said:
intake manifold side should go as follows... pcv valve->husky filter/catch can(optional, but recommended)->check valve-> IM
breather side should be... VC breather->sealed catch can->intake pipe
DO NOT route both sides to one catch can!
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
whatever works for you, i guess.. being a douchebag is obviously working out quite well i see. you can take the OEM PCV valve argument up with the thousands of other DSM owners who have the same problem, smart ass. im not going to debate with you as it has been debated hundreds of times before. also, if you dont have helpful advice, keep your gay banter to PM's.. im sure nobody wants to hear your pillow biting opinions, anyway.Arctic_GST said:
Joined
·
170 Posts
If you review YOUR posts? You are the one, who initiated the Douchbag Pillow-Bitng opionated, and Totally uneccessary, Gay comment(s)...green_bread said:
I, on the other hand, just offered a suggestion...
Have a Nice Day!!!
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
first off, you came in and gave him advice to go buy another oem pcv valve after he had already stated that he had replaced it about 4 months ago... which, yes, IS just a suggestion, however, it is a poor suggestion. if you think that replacing a pcv valve every few months is better than fixing it with a PROVEN TO WORK method, more power to you, i guess... im just trying to help him get it fixed so he wont have to worry about it anymore.Arctic_GST said:If you review YOUR posts? You are the one, who initiated the Douchbag Pillow-Bitng opionated, and Totally uneccessary, Gay comment(s)...
I, on the other hand, just offered a suggestion...
Have a Nice Day!!!
then, i gave him an answer for a solution that will work and is backed by pretty much the whole 'dsm wisemen' community and you come in and tell me to 'kiss your ass' because i told you that your suggestion was not the best answer? and i was the one who started the retarded comments? looks like hukt on foniks worked wonders for you.
whatever, dipshit... i know that you havent done the research to be able to argue with me about this.. let alone have first hand experience with dealing with the setup. this is in no way a 'home depot hack job' and i am offering him good advice... so again, unless you offer some solid information here on WHY the stock pcv valve is a better option than this 'hack job' setup.. keep your opinions to yourself or just PM me. no need in cluttering up his thread with your worthless opinions.
Joined
·
170 Posts
I have no-interest in arguing/debating the subject... The OP is on a Stock (Un-Modded) Set-up... An OEM PCV should suffice. No real need for the extra $$$... (Also, Ordering time=Down time) You have blown up and become hostile to the point your grammer/sentence-structure has gone to shit... Try reading a few rules yourself... Furthermore, don't form un-educated assessments/opinions about people you know nothing about???green_bread said:
Once again, Have a Nice Day!!!
My apologies to the OP for this simple problem getting so blown out of proportion...
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Arctic_GST said:
i only blew up because i gave him a proven to work solution and you came in suggesting an oem replacement while calling this setup a 'hack job'. if you search this website, you will find many threads detailing discussions of the pcv operation and why the oem pcv valve is a crappy design and how they fail more often than not. you will also find a few detailing the setup i am suggesting and see that many people are running it with a lot of success.as for added cost and downtime due to ordering, i think $1.50 for a check valve and ~$13 for the husky filter/catch can and fittings is pretty reasonable to not have to worry about replacing a pcv valve again. its a matter of spend $15 and get it set up right or keep shelling out around $5. there shouldnt be any down time because he went ahead and got another oem pcv valve so he can still drive while he waits for the parts to come in. the only thing he would have to order, anyway, is the check valve and they should get to him in a day or two. when i ordered mine, i had them the next day with standard us mail shipping.
the point i am trying to make is that simply replacing the pcv valve is not the best solution here. it may work, however, there are other things that should be done to have it set up to not only work, but work the best it can.
Joined
·
170 Posts
green_bread said:
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Sorry this turned into a war. I personally like green_bread's solution, and he's helped me many times in the past. I like the idea of having a backup check valve that will ensure I will never have a problem like this again, rather than going to a Mitsu dealership and buying a PCV valve from a 12 year old car that would probably cost me like $10 bucks.
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Arctic_GST said:
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Well I tested again today, and the new PCV already failed and it's leaking through the breather hose. I ordered 2 of those valves yesterday though, so those should be on the way.
Also, when testing for leaks, I hear fluid bubbling. Is this just my oil bubbling since there is pressure in my crankcase?
Also, when testing for leaks, I hear fluid bubbling. Is this just my oil bubbling since there is pressure in my crankcase?
Joined
·
170 Posts
Hearing fluid bubble during a boost-leak test is a possible sign of bad (or going bad) Turbo seals/bearings... Pull the Intercooler hose (or coupling & pipe) between the Turbo and Intercooler, and look for signs of oil??? If oil is present ? You've got other problems... Not only possibly time for a for a new Turbo, but oil getting into the intercooler decreases its' efficiency, and it will need to be removed & CLEANED also...
Joined
·
170 Posts
Disconnect the Valve-Cover vent tube going to the Turbo-Inlet tube, and cap it/seal it off at the tube. As for the vent line, theres several options depending on the $$$ you,ve got to spend???
1. You could lengthen the line and run it so any oil coming out of it drips out underneath the car as you drive...
2. Go purchase a Valve-Cover Breather Filter, from you local Auto Parts store...
3. Go the catch-Can route, with either a breather filter, or rerouted it back to the intake tract...
Any of these should stop crankcase pressure from spitting oil into your intake tract... But the fluid bubbling still worries me??? Your next option is to remove the IC pipes/hoses & the IC itself (Or at least the Turbo Outlet tube) and clean them thoroughly, (Gasoline works well) then replace them... Then drive the car for a couple days and check the Turbo Outlet tube again for oil??? If oil is present them??? you've got bigger problems...
1. You could lengthen the line and run it so any oil coming out of it drips out underneath the car as you drive...
2. Go purchase a Valve-Cover Breather Filter, from you local Auto Parts store...
3. Go the catch-Can route, with either a breather filter, or rerouted it back to the intake tract...
Any of these should stop crankcase pressure from spitting oil into your intake tract... But the fluid bubbling still worries me??? Your next option is to remove the IC pipes/hoses & the IC itself (Or at least the Turbo Outlet tube) and clean them thoroughly, (Gasoline works well) then replace them... Then drive the car for a couple days and check the Turbo Outlet tube again for oil??? If oil is present them??? you've got bigger problems...
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
