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I use a thicker oil simply because I can almost swear my lifters are much quieter upon immediate start up after sitting.

As for breaking an engine in I have always been told use dino oils. Then switch.
 
twinturbo3k said:
I use a thicker oil simply because I can almost swear my lifters are much quieter upon immediate start up after sitting switch.
Thats odd, thicker oil usually at start up makes the lifters tick more..the thicker oil takes longer to reach the head and come up to operating temps..I like valvoline vr1 oils if you talk to alot of high end engine builders they sware by that stuff. you should run a straight weight oil and let your car idle and go the heat cycles then change to whatever oil you like.
 
I personally trust Valvoline (from everything that I've read) for my soon to be rebuilt motor. Just bought 4 gallons of if for $46ish. Not too bad...

and as stated before, I would also recommend changing the oil often...thats why I bought so much of it.

Good luck with the rebuild, enjoy the monster 2.4L!
 
You'll be fine MAC. I just saw an engine where QS was pretty much all they used and it was like someone poured tar in the engine after X number of thousand miles (like life of engine) but I've never seen oil sludge up like it was.

I used to use Castrol, it's a good oil. But coming from a family where my step-father was in the oil business. If the oil has the API certifications and they match what you're supposed to use for your car, then usually you'll be fine. I've used Wallyworld (supertech) oil for the past 4 1/2 years and had ZERO problems. Heck I even use the ST filters. I've put over 45,000 miles on my car and again, ZERO problems. Just change your oil regularly. That's the key. Also, NEVER let it run more than a quart low. I've heard our cars love spinning bearings when we have really low or dirty oil.
 
HOT97ECLIPSEGSX said:
Local Mitsu Master Tech recommended Castrol Syntec full synthetic 5w-30 for my car. Run it year round with no problems.
5-30 in the summer? How hot is it there?
 
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