ARPs vs. "REAL" studs

TEC · Jul 27, 2007

danl said:
ARP's are more of a downgrade than an upgrade. Their L2 material I've heard is better. The arp 2000 hardware in their rodbolts must be fine, but their standard headstuds suck and cost me money and time.

The studs I thought were made of the ARP2000 material (I need to look at my box when I get home to confirm this). What you really want from ARP if anything is the Custom Age 625. It's the only material I see listed on their site that equals or better the L1's.

99gst_racer · Jul 27, 2007

ARP head studs are made of 8740 chrome moly steel. It's a little less strong than their ARP2000 material. L19 is typically only used for rod bolts. The Custom Age 625 would be the next step for stronger ARP head studs.

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 28, 2007

Here are the pics of the 2 cyls that burned through into the water jacket. Keep in mind my block is o-ringed as well, the head HAD to lift in order for this to happen:

cyl 4:

cyl 3:

Flow-Bro · Jul 28, 2007

K Man, between you and my friend Ive opted to go with A1 Studs

scapaldo · Jul 28, 2007

Was the head resurfaced before putting it together the last time?

16g-95GSX · Jul 28, 2007

400 dollars for head studs just seems hard to swallow.

DSMscreamer · Jul 28, 2007

I hate ARP's standard studs. They have always been hit or miss for me with the same prep. I have much better luck with the stock head bolts. Holding fine with 33psi and 21dg peak timing advance on my buddies 60trim. Just went back to stock bolts from ARPs this weekend when I started pushing coolant turning up the boost to 30psi. Put the stockers back in and took the car out and ran the shit out of it. Haven't push a drop @30psi on the 3065. Put down 451hp @ 26psi, this has got be just about 500whp.

I know of others who have had good luck with ARPs holding with high boost, but they have O-rings. Maybe I just suck at installing ARP's.

thimages · Jul 28, 2007

We lifted the head at 40 psi and 23 degrees using ARP's.

It doesn't take too many popped gaskets to justify the expense of A1's.

Ripper_XX · Jul 28, 2007

So the consensus is ARP standard < OEM < ARP2000 material <ARP Aged 625 <A1 ???

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 29, 2007

Trust me the head and block were fresh new on the build.

lg93awdgsxer · Jul 29, 2007

You guys refer to "pushing coolant". I wonder...When i drive hard i'm always a little low on coolant, when i check it the next time. My arp's are a few years old, and i've had them torqued to 105 in one car. Took the motor out retorqued again to 105. Now they're are at 90... I wonder if im doin the same.

I'm o-ringed on the head. Stock Felpro. 24psi fp Green.

TEC · Jul 29, 2007

Ripper_XX said:
So the consensus is ARP standard < OEM < ARP2000 material <ARP Aged 625 <A1 ???

More like ARP Standard <OEM <ARP2000<ARP Custom Age 625 = A1

Whiteonyx86 · Jul 29, 2007

gee i remember back in the day when ARPs were MUST HAVE upgrade to run more boost...and now they are shit apparently. Screw 4 bangers and paying out the ass for some headstuds. 03-04 Mustang Cobra here i come!

Ill let everyone know what happens to my ARPs when i run 30psi on my FP3575

Kastigir · Jul 29, 2007

Just a question. I just ordered some ARP studs. Now, currently running stock, and I don't see myself ever pushing some of the numbers I've seen in this very thread. In fact, I have another question. What kind of psi could I safely run with 93 octane, and no building of the motor? This is a 2G Talon.

Apologies in advance if this is a derail, albeit a minor one.

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 29, 2007

As far as the first part of your question you will be fine do not over torque. As for the 2nd part you need to do a search that question has been asked/answered as many times as "what bov should I run?"

PokeyTSI · Jul 29, 2007

So basically, unless you are plannin to push serious hp, the ARPs are fine?

KJS1820 · Jul 29, 2007

Whiteonyx86 said:
gee i remember back in the day when ARPs were MUST HAVE upgrade to run more boost...and now they are shit apparently. Screw 4 bangers and paying out the ass for some headstuds. 03-04 Mustang Cobra here i come!

Ill let everyone know what happens to my ARPs when i run 30psi on my FP3575

LOL I have a 03 Kenne Bell cobra and still like my DD 50 trim 97 GSX better! Sure the Cobra is fun but awd and a little 4 banger is just more fun to me!

Kastigir · Jul 29, 2007

K_Mans_TSI said:
As far as the first part of your question you will be fine do not over torque. As for the 2nd part you need to do a search that question has been asked/answered as many times as "what bov should I run?"

The problem is that unless you get extremely specific with your parameters, it could take hours to find the question you need. Conversely, if you get *too* specific, your search will return zero results. I know all about not wanting to answer newbie questions, but on every forum I've ever been to, the regulars fall back on the 'Search noob" answer far too often.

DSMscreamer · Jul 30, 2007

Kastigir said:
The problem is that unless you get extremely specific with your parameters, it could take hours to find the question you need. Conversely, if you get *too* specific, your search will return zero results. I know all about not wanting to answer newbie questions, but on every forum I've ever been to, the regulars fall back on the 'Search noob" answer far too often.

Well at least you seem to articulate far above the average noob DSMer so I'll tell you what I know. Most of what your asking is dependant on so many variables it's not even funny, but I will tell you what I think the max setup for a stock 2G motor should be. I would limit it to a SCM61 sized turbo with all supporting mods of course (if you dont know what they are then you will have to do some research). With that set up you should be able to run about 22-24psi safely which would yield about 420-440whp on a well tuned setup.

Most people looking for a streetable mild setup may stop with a 50trim sized turbo witch would give you 370-400 whp @ about 25psi. You would at least need Dsmlink to tune safly on 93.

Kastigir · Jul 30, 2007

DSMscreamer said:
Well at least you seem to articulate far above the average noob DSMer so I'll tell you what I know. Most of what your asking is dependant on so many variables it's not even funny, but I will tell you what I think the max setup for a stock 2G motor should be. I would limit it to a SCM61 sized turbo with all supporting mods of course (if you dont know what they are then you will have to do some research). With that set up you should be able to run about 22-24psi safely which would yield about 420-440whp on a well tuned setup.

Most people looking for a streetable mild setup may stop with a 50trim sized turbo witch would give you 370-400 whp @ about 25psi. You would at least need Dsmlink to tune safly on 93.

Not having done an extensive amount of research, I can tell you the direction I'm planning. Currently the car sits with the head off of it. It was necessary to diagnose why it wasn't running.

First I want to throw it back together with only the modifications that have been done so far. Those currently are GReddy BOV, K&N FIPK, and a Tanabe cat-back exhaust. Once I get it running again, is when the fun starts. Am considering the very common 16G upgrade, as well as what goes with that. Fuel pump, injectors, FMIC, and whatever is necessary to get it running safely on 93 octane. At this point in the rebuild, I'm not sure if the stock HG is going to be good enough, but if an upgrade is unnecessary then I don't want to waste the money. Mitsu sells the upper gasket kit for 220 or so.

ARPs vs. "REAL" studs

TEC

99gst_racer

K_Mans_TSI

Flow-Bro

scapaldo

16g-95GSX

DSMscreamer

thimages

Ripper_XX

K_Mans_TSI

lg93awdgsxer

TEC

Whiteonyx86

Kastigir

K_Mans_TSI

PokeyTSI

KJS1820

Kastigir

DSMscreamer

Kastigir

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