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blkchr91

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I am fed up with not being able to find a mechanic, and getting screwed over etc.

I don't have much time to do this, so I will only be able to do this about 1 hour at a time.

Another problem is that I have ABS on the car. FYI, I don't really want to get rid of it either.

The biggest problem is that I only have an 8' x 4' 3/4 inch piece of plywood to work on.

My neighbor who is a chrysler mechanic said that I should ideally get the car up on 4 jackstands, but I am not so sure that is the case. Besides that board is not big enough IMHO to get the car up on 4 anyways.

So my questions are as follows:

1) How many jack stands do I need?

2) Is ABS going to make my life miserable?

3) Anything else that I may want to consider?

FYI, I have already read the FAQ, and just wanted some pointers etc., since this car is ABS and I will be working on a damn piece of board in my yard :(

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you, could you please tell me what a custom flywheel holder is?

I have swapped a clutch out before on a RWD car and don't remember anything like that.

Also, how long do you think it would take me to get that tranny dropped if I am super slow (which I am BTW).

I just want to take my time with it, get the parts that I need, and not stress it.

It's not my DD. I could invest part of a Saturday to get it dropped, or maybe even all day.

Any thoughts?

I have also done some searching where some indicate that getting rid of the ABS makes the clutch swap 20 times easier. Again I seriously like my ABS.
If leaving the ABS in place makes no difference, I am all for it.

Also, what sort of Jack would I need to get enough height to do the job?

In the past I have used an SUV jack on my other cars.

I will obviously use jack stands.

Any thoughts on which jack/jackstand combo I want to use?

A car is a car for me, no sense getting killed. :)

Thanks again for your time, and I welcome any other thoughts!
 
I dont see why ABS matters, it's not really in the way. The flywheel holder is bolted to where one of your flywheel bolts goes and then into one of the top tranny mount bolts. I get away with using a very small jack and a few peices of wood to get the clearence I need, You want to get it high enough so you can slide the tranny out of under the car and be able to lay under it and be able to work. Its pretty straight forward on pulling it just unbolt anything that looks like it has to come off, Read the VFAQ on it and torque everything to spec.
 
You don't need a flywheel holder unless you are taking the flywheel off, all you are doing is the clutch and you should be able to get the pressure plate bolts off without the flywheel spinning.

I have a big advantage in that I use a hoist and drop the tranny down rather than use a jack. With the car on short jackstands the tranny barely slides out once on the ground. But if you are using a jack to lower it then you need two people. The height of the car has to be pretty high in order to get the tranny down and away after you lower it with a jack. thats why he says raise the hole thing so it [the car] is not leaning back very far.

Maybe this winter I'll make a clutch removal/install video...lots of questions on this.

Did you know the old Hyundia WRC mechanics could change the clutch in 30 seconds? I need that clutch setup.

Good luck
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
x569 said:
You don't need a flywheel holder unless you are taking the flywheel off, all you are doing is the clutch and you should be able to get the pressure plate bolts off without the flywheel spinning.

I have a big advantage in that I use a hoist and drop the tranny down rather than use a jack. With the car on short jackstands the tranny barely slides out once on the ground. But if you are using a jack to lower it then you need two people. The height of the car has to be pretty high in order to get the tranny down and away after you lower it with a jack. thats why he says raise the hole thing so it [the car] is not leaning back very far.

Maybe this winter I'll make a clutch removal/install video...lots of questions on this.

Did you know the old Hyundia WRC mechanics could change the clutch in 30 seconds? I need that clutch setup.

Good luck
Thanks all...

So if the car is leaning back too much it can slide off the stands? I really don't want to get killed. When I was younger I didn't care, but now I am a wuss!! :D :D
 
Well "in theory" plus the car will be level , if its leaning back, then you gotta tilt the tranny and wrank on it when you try and put it back in.
 
red1gelipse said:
You should take the flywheel off to be re-surfaced. So you will most likely need the flywheel holder.

uuuh, oops forgot about that!:wall: My bad. yah, you need to be able to get the flywheel off. Unless you don't want it resurfaced.
 
blkchr91 said:
Thanks all...

So if the car is leaning back too much it can slide off the stands? I really don't want to get killed. When I was younger I didn't care, but now I am a wuss!! :D :D
When I did mine I had it on ramps "rear tires" and jack stands "front". I would recommend putting it up on 4 jack stand just to be safe.

If it wasn't suggested already I would look into doing the clutch fork and pivot ball while you have the tranny out. Might even want to look into the ss clutch line. Good luck!

Edit, btw I used a big ass flat head and my friend pinned the flyweel while I took off the bolts.
 
transmission removal on a 1g is easy. I experienced no problems with jacking up just the front of the car with a standard small hydraulic jack from walmart with one jackstand on each side, Just pull the ebrake up as far as it can go. Using a small piece of 2x4 will make the car go 2 inches higher, which helps with removal, but then when you lean over the car to lift the tranny, thats 2 inches more you have to lift it up(and its heavy(awd, FWD is easier to lift, duh)). I removed a FWD tranny with the abs in and it didn't get in the way at all. I was able to craw under the car to remove the xfer case and cross member(AWD only) no problems just lifting the front as high as my small hydraulic jack would go. and I am your average sized 5'11 guy. Any other questions you may have?

EDIT: no need for a flywheel holder, I've never used one when removing a flywheel, but of course, i have air tools.

All i can say is good luck working on it on a piece of plywood in the grass
 
ScrapMetalDSM said:
transmission removal on a 1g is easy. I experienced no problems with jacking up just the front of the car with a standard small hydraulic jack from walmart with one jackstand on each side, Just pull the ebrake up as far as it can go. Using a small piece of 2x4 will make the car go 2 inches higher, which helps with removal, but then when you lean over the car to lift the tranny, thats 2 inches more you have to lift it up(and its heavy(awd, FWD is easier to lift, duh)). I removed a FWD tranny with the abs in and it didn't get in the way at all. I was able to craw under the car to remove the xfer case and cross member(AWD only) no problems just lifting the front as high as my small hydraulic jack would go. and I am your average sized 5'11 guy. Any other questions you may have?

EDIT: no need for a flywheel holder, I've never used one when removing a flywheel, but of course, i have air tools.

All i can say is good luck working on it on a piece of plywood in the grass
Air tools or not how do you retorque the flywheel to spec?
 
with a torque wrench =P . Seriously, I use a 1/2 inch breaker bar, stick it into the crank pulley on the opposite side of the engine, and either have a friend hold it, or if I'm alone, I rest it against the floor and make sure it does not move (a cylinder block works nicely).
 
ScrapMetalDSM said:
with a torque wrench =P . Seriously, I use a 1/2 inch breaker bar, stick it into the crank pulley on the opposite side of the engine, and either have a friend hold it, or if I'm alone, I rest it against the floor and make sure it does not move (a cylinder block works nicely).
I do the same too, I don't have any problems with removal or installation of the flywheel.
 
ScrapMetalDSM said:
with a torque wrench =P . Seriously, I use a 1/2 inch breaker bar, stick it into the crank pulley on the opposite side of the engine, and either have a friend hold it, or if I'm alone, I rest it against the floor and make sure it does not move (a cylinder block works nicely).
Same here.
 
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