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tonyroma

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I can't find anything on this. I have a Garrett 60 Trim here, non ball-bearing. Does anybody know the oil pressure specs or whether or not I will need a restrictor? I know the BB turbo's do, but what about the non BB ones?

Just trying to keep the turbo alive.

-Tony
 
Do yourself a favor bud, run one. I had the same turbo on my GSX for about 6 months with no oil restrictor. It had about an inch of in/out play but no side to side play. I had this turbo for about 2-3 years previous to installing it on the GSX with an oil restrictor on the Probe GT. I had it fed from the head, full synthetic oil, and my bottom end has a stock rebuild with about 43k.

The common belief is that the head oiling system oil pressure is less than that of the oil filter housing. I don't believe that honestly, since it is integrated into the valvetrain oiling system. Healthy oil pressure can be 85-90 psi, much more than any turbo should see on its bearings. Sure a large oil drain is great, but the center cartridge does not need that much damn oil, it is fairly simple in construction. Save yourself the 300+ for a professional rebuild, that's a bad ass turbo you have (I love mine) keep it in good shape.
 
No I meant in, out. For 2-3 years, no play whatsoever. 6 months on the GSX with no oil restrictor, I kid you not an inch of in.out play unrestricted. I guess you'll have to take my word that I'm competent as a mechanic. I have a half inch braided oil drain. If you want to play it safe do what I'm doing on the 60-1, run a braided line from the filter housing with a restrictor. Even if you feed it from the head, I would restrict it. Anybody with an aftermarket oil pressure gauge will know why I say that.
 
Whether you need a restrictor will defend fully on your car's oil pressure.

Do you have your balance shafts still? Have you ported the pressure relief valve on the filter housing?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
99gst_racer said:
Whether you need a restrictor will defend fully on your car's oil pressure.

Do you have your balance shafts still? Have you ported the pressure relief valve on the filter housing?
I have no balance shafts, and no this oil filter housing isn't ported, but I intend to. I have no oil pressure gauge right now so I don't have a reliable way to check pressures, but my stock gauge reads at about 1/4 at idle and about 3/4 at WOT.

Either way, does anybody know the turbo's oil pressure specs? If nobody can tell me I'll call Garrett tomorrow.

-Tony
 
If you use the right oil feed line you should have no issues feeding from the oil filter housing without a restictor. Ran my 60 trim for years like that back in the day. Just be sure your return line is straight with no kinks. Feeding a non BB heavy duty thrust center section from the head is a no-no. I killed my FP Green doing that in about 6 months. Coincidence? I think not. You can run an inline filter for extra safety.
 
If you use the right oil feed line you should have no issues feeding from the oil filter housing without a restictor. Ran my 60 trim for years like that back in the day. Just be sure your return line is straight with no kinks. Feeding a non BB heavy duty thrust center section from the head is a no-no. I killed my FP Green doing that in about 6 months. Coincidence? I think not. You can run an inline filter for extra safety.
You know you may be right about that, I killed my 60 trim in a similiar fashion. As for my 60-1, its a Garrett compressor . Honestly its not worth risking the turbo by feeding from the head, but like someone earlier said, it depends on your oil pressure. I run a -4an line with a restrictor from the oil filter housing. I suspect the head feeding area to be dirty ass oil, which may explain how the bearings got shot so quickly. I wish people would post their experiences so we can get to the bottom of this question once and for all.
 
I am also curious on this subject. I see oil pressure's around 100 psi at WOT. I have had no issues with my G50 SBR 50 trim with no restrictor, -4 feed line, and -10 return line. anyone else with any thoughts on this?
 
Discussion starter · #14 · (Edited)
manrightchea said:
I suspect the head feeding area to be dirty ass oil, which may explain how the bearings got shot so quickly. I wish people would post their experiences so we can get to the bottom of this question once and for all.
I would never feed from the head because it is the last place to get oil, so it contains more contaminants typically, even with a BB turbo. That and the oil pressure is lower. Anyway, I am probably going to end up using a -4AN feed line from the filter housing with a restrictor. -10AN on the way out.

I'll call Garrett today.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
BTW does anyone know if the non-BB turbo's can come with the 12X1.5NPT feed side? Because that's what mine has, I bought it used, and I was told it was non-BB, but Extreme PSI told me typically only the BB ones come with that size feed. Just curious and halfway excited to know the answer.
 
I run a Turbonetics T3/T04E 60 Trim, 360 thrust bearing. 6 bolt bottom end with no balance shafts using 15w 50 oil Mobil 1 full synthetic, the 5 quart jug from Wally World at $21 bucks. I even run it during the winter time. I run a -4 an SS line straight from the oil filter housing with no porting done to my oil pressure relief valve. I always let my car warm up to full operating temperature before I drive it also. I have been running this setup since August of 07 and put maybe 6k miles on it. I checked my shaft play two days ago and it was still perfect. I have no doubt that I run an incredible amount of oil pressue, but due to my inate ability to procrastinate I have yet to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The car doesn't smoke at all, at all, so I would say so far its ok. I have no plans at all to change the weight of my oil either.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
That sounds like it's set up for a disaster according to what was said in post #4. BTW, I couldn't get a hold of Garrett because they don't have a direct customer service line. My next best bet was to call AMS, who isn't open until tomorrow.

-Tony
 
Basically to sum it up, 3an with no restrictor is best. If you are using 4an like I am just run a restrictor with it. 4an is a lot more common than 3an, so it may be easier for most to just use that size with a restrictor. This is all with the oil filter housing feed in mind. As for the water passages, BB centers can/usually do have threads that size, but my Garrett 60 trim also has water passages of that thread as well.

Blackflame may be able to get away with that kind of a setup do to the thickness of the oil he is using. It takes more pressure to pump a thicker oil than a thinner one, although I am surprised an oil that thick has not affected his turbo in any way.
 
What was said in post #4 is actually rather untrue. It is a general consensus that if you are feeding from the head that you need to also run an inline oil filter as it is dirty/unfiltered oil. Especially if you are breaking in a new motor. Any contaminents can get caught in the bearing and just eat away. Plus, there is much lower oil pressure in the head than what is coming from the filter housing. Some 360 thrust bearing cartridges might actually like higher oil pressure vs. low oil pressure. Either way. I think what I'm doing is probably a bad idea. But like your dad always told you as a kid, "Do as I say, not as I do."
 
The channel bearing Garrett turbo's like to see about 30-50 PSI oil pressure entering the CHRA. Many have exceeded this recommended level and have not had issues, while others did experience failure.

You'd have to meature the amount of oil pressure at tyhe CHRA to see where your at before you determine if you need a restrictor or not.

And if you're on a budget, you could always make your own restrictor.
 
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