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Esky

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Since it's spring again, and the car is coming out for another season, I have been looking to put a few more additions on the car. I'd like to replace my A/F with a Wideband finally, but I saw that some wideband gauges/sensors are 0-4v, and some are 0-5v. Since I am only beginning my experiences in tuning...what does this mean? Wider mixture readouts? This is what I'd guess, but then I saw a few different wideband setups that do the opposite. Does it have to do with connecting to your tuning device?

Also, what's all involved in connecting a wideband? Is it just, get your power and ground, plug the sensor in, and go? Then if you have a tuning system, another wire for that signal? And where's a good tapping spot for the sensor? At the collector? That might be tough.

I checked out vfaq and did some digging on here, but I didn't find anything. Vfaq seems to be missing more and more info nowadays...

I found a decent deal on a new Autometer wideband setup, and I'd like to take it, as long as I'm not missing something and buying into a pile. Does anyone have experience with the Autometer wideband? From what I've seen, these are rediculously priced over the other brands. I also have all Autometer Sport-Comp gauges, and want to keep the trend if possible, so the deal is appealing. So, I'll have this in and monitoring, then later when I step into the fuel control, I'll be ready.

I hate winter.

TiA :cool:
 
On location - I placed my wideband at the second O2 sensor under the driver seat, that does really nothing for the car. Will through a CEL probably though (there are ways to close the second O2 sensor circuit so that it doesn't do this).
 
I have no experience with the autometer wideband, but I still wouldn't trust it.

I have an AEM and I couldn't be any happier. Its very accurate and easy viewing.

Or you can try a LC-1 wideband. Those are good too
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback so far, but so far LatDSM is the only one that has given me some good info. And I'm wondering if 16G_tsi_awd meant you need a signal wire with it to hook it to DSMLink? If so, cool. But I could use much more information about installation, especially if putting the wideband at the 2nd O2 spot will affect its reading at all?

I know about the AEM wideband, but I'm looking for specific experience with the Autometer, because I have all Autometer gauges. I know a few swear against them, but every Autometer gauge I've used or seen used has been rock solid.

Thanks!
 
As per the LC-1 instructions, you could make your measurements even at the tailpipe...because basically the composition of the gases doesn't change in the pipe, just the temperature.

Hence I opted for the 2nd O2 position. Its colder and therefore less potential wear of the sensor (Hint: primary O2 sensors tend to die due to heat and abuse).

as far as insallation - connect as instructed. Connect sensor, connect power and go. For working with other management systems - see each case but should also work the same way.

It does get tricky if you want to replace your primary O2 sensor with the wideband. Then you have to use a converted narrowband signal from your reading tool to feed to the ECU with information.

But alas I don't know anything about Autometer widebands, so you really should read the manual before asking so many questions.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I also figured as much for the tapping spot for the wideband, but you know what they say about those who assume...

I don't have the manual yet :eek:

I went on Autometer to look for instructions, and they do have a link for it, but it's either broken or completely lacking for info on wideband setup.

I would figure the Autometer gauge should work every bit as well as the others, but my main question was the difference in 0-4v and 0-5v gauges/sensors and if anyone had experience with the Autometer.

Thanks for the info so far!
 
The voltage range is the output from the wideband to be used by a gauge or ecu. Those voltages correlate to specific AFRs. for example, my NGK AFX has 0v=9:1 AFR and 5v = 16:1 AFR. The AFR range and voltage range must be compatable with whatever guage or ECU you have. Some widebands have programable outputs, and some ECUs are flexable on the input side.
 
One thing I recomend is the JAW. Just Another Wideband.

Basically its a DYI kit to make a wideband controller. It is data loggable through a serial port by itself. It also comes along with 2 configurable outputs, say if you wanted 1 output to a guage and one to Link. Its pretty awesome, take a look.

http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm

You can put together a whole kit, LED guage/ controller + wideband sensor for $120~.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
So I've been digging for more information on proper sensor installation to make sure the 2nd O2 location is a good one for the wideband, and from what my directions say, the sensor is supposed to be installed 5" after the turbo. Damn?

Also, I saw a web page that stated the sensor should be installed in the top or side of the exhaust pipe only, and if installed on the side, that it should be installed at about a +10deg angle as to avoid condensation build up during cold starts which will damage the sensor.

My guess is the 2nd O2 port in my exhaust is around 3ft from the turbo...and its directly in the side, parallel to the ground...

Anyone have more information or insight on this? I can't seem to find good instructions here or on vfaq...just random googles for random brands/styles of widebands (not AEM or Autometer).
 
Optimal bung placement is 18" from the turbo. Like previously stated, that's the recommendation for the longevity of your sensor. You can mount the o2 sensor at any angle really. The 10% is just to try and keep moisture out of the senser after the exhaust gasses cool back down and recondense. Most WB settings are 0-5v and NB (narrow band) are 0-1v. NB settings are needed if you're running a stock ECU. If you have an engine management system such as and AEM EMS then you can set the program on the gauge to either read NB or WB input.
 
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