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Power loss @ 4K

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godchsr

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm losing power right around 4K in first and second gear. Never in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

The engine is bogging down entirely, so I am confident that it's not a Clutch slip (the power loss feels similar which is the only reaon I mention it.

Here's the variables that I can identify so far:
WOT
1st or 2nd
Starts around 4K

I am totally stock minus some 'deletions' that took place (I haven't identified them all yet but EGR is one fyi)
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Checked the plugs and the gap was at .045 across the board... Not to mention one of the 4 was a split fire (different entirely!!!)
hahaha
Anyway I replaced them and gapped at .030 BUT to no credit the car is still running weak. I have absolutely no power past 4K. In fact before 4 K I am still not really pushing full power.

What should the CAS be set at? Because it has obviously been moved around and for some reason it has electrical tape on it where it connects to the head.?.?.?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
OK, it's raining here so I may not get to that at this second. I should note that if I keep taking it into higher RPMS I get a CEL that goes away a half second later.

After reading around I believe this may be fuel cut but I guess I am confused as to why this would happen on a basically stock car.?.? and where to look to fix the problem.
 
#8 ·
Goldie said:
Sounds like fuel cut to me ...
Click to expand...
Fuel cut is a sudden loss of power, almost like slaming on the breaks for a second. His condition doesn't sound like fuel cut.
 
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#9 ·
godchsr said:
... I replaced them and gapped at .030 ...
Click to expand...
What plugs did you replace they with? I recomend NGK BPR7ES and gap to .028

godchsr said:
... What should the CAS be set at? Because it has obviously been moved around and for some reason it has electrical tape on it where it connects to the head.?.?.?
Click to expand...
The ECU uses the CAS to adjust spark and fuel timing. This could very well be your problem if it is just taped to the head, like you explained. There should be two studs that come out of the head and the CAS is fastened there with two nuts. I'm assuming that one of the studs is broken off? If so, then you need to replace the stud and retime the engine. This will, more than likely, fix your problem.
 
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#10 ·
LordDigi said:
Fuel cut is a sudden loss of power, almost like slaming on the breaks for a second. His condition doesn't sound like fuel cut.
Click to expand...
Well, the thread is titled loss of power at 4k and he said it bogs out. So my guess was that if he did in fact have a boost controller, that he is over boosting and hitting fuel cut.
 
#11 ·
Goldie said:
... So my guess was that if he did in fact have a boost controller, that he is over boosting and hitting fuel cut.
Click to expand...
godchsr said:
... The engine is bogging down entirely, so I am confident that it's not a Clutch slip (the power loss feels similar which is the only reaon I mention it) ...
Click to expand...
A feeling of a slipping clutch would not be sudden power loss, thus not be a symptom of fuel cut.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
It is alot like hitting the brakes, a full loss of acceleration.

I think it's fuel cut and I think I know why now.
I just went out and ran a boost leak test and ONLY got leak out of the dipstick hole.
So I checked the PCV and it works perfectly.

I hooked it all back up and started the car and guess what... I had a crap ton of blue smoke pouring out the exhaust. My guess is that during the Leak test I threw oil past the rings into the cylinder.

Now unless someone else can give me a good idea as to how that much pressure got into the crankcase I am guessing that I got a bad ring and my turbo is working 10 times harder pulling air past the MAF that it's not actually using (Hence fuel cut)

Thoughts?
 
#14 · (Edited)
godchsr said:
BTW I am headin out right now to do a compression test across the board... what am I shooting for?
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Well you want your numbers to be pretty close to each other (less than 10). I think you want to aim for around 160 (which is perfect) and for sure higher than 120's (shits gone bad).

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm
 
#16 ·
Did you check out your CAS?
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Yes, sorry I didn't reply, I got distracted with boost in my dipstick.

OK... The rear bolt on the CAS is gone but the front one is there.

The tape is on there because one of the screws that hold the wiring hraness in is missing, must have been his BS way of replacing the screw.?.?.?

I'm getting the impression that the guy I bought the car from may have known DSMs well but he must have been poor as hell because he rigged the heck out of this thing... cheap cheap cheap
The gasket is also missing from the CAS. So there is oil leaking and getting on the CAS/wires too.
 
#19 ·
The compression is low but that would not explain the described problems.

Have a logger? Look for knock. Don't go WOT until the car is at temp. When cold these cars will do odd things like pull timing and bog down.

Sounds like timing is being pulled in one way or the other.
 
#20 ·
Do you have a boost gauge - aftermarket? If so watch it when wot, and see if it stays at the same psi across board. By looking at your compression #'s i really dont think it would only cause it at 4k only. Check for faulty boost controller/solenoid if stock or sticky wastegate.
 
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