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Installing an SAFC onto my 4g64

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Topletback

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am really in need of some help. A few days ago I received a Neo SAFC with all the wires and instruction books, but I cannot figure out how to attach the wires. The book gives me diagrams for a 4G63, but alas, no 4G64. Could someone please help me figure this out? I really don't want to mess this up.

Thank you in advance!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advise, I think I will try and do it the same way that it is done with the 4G63. The reason I want to have it on my N/T is because I will eventually to turbo, but I want to make sure that I have all my bases covered first, and after a bit of reading I found that if I make a few small adjustments I can get a little more power out of my car.
 
#4 ·
How much power are we talking about here? I guess I dont see how faking your ECU into thinking there's more air than their actually is when you DON'T have more air will make more power, or vice versa.

I would think you'd just mess with your air/fuel ratios and they'll be off. Guess I don't follow.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Its not going to be a whole lot more, just a little. I might not even notice it. Regardless though, I want to make sure that I have all my bases covered before installing the turbo. This is just one step, and the way I see it, in order to complete the project i have to complete all the steps, so it really doesn't matter if I got this first or last. I'm not expecting 50000000WHP, I'm not really even expecting any, some would be nice, but it might be a pipe dream, however the SAFC will sure look pretty!
 
#6 ·
On a n/t car you aren't going to see a real difference. Maybe 5 to 10 whp at most. Basically you paid between 150 to 300 bucks for a Neo that will give you the same amount of power as a k&n.

Why turbo the 420a? Wouldn't it be much more cost efficient to just find a nice gst or gsx?
 
#7 ·
Stop listening to the morons and haters.

And guys, if you don't even know the N/T Spyder came with the 4G64, DON'T RESPOND.

I mean really... I'm getting so tired of the misinformation posted by people who have NO business even being in this forum.

Topletback: Wire it the same as the 4G63 diagram. The pinout on the 4G63 ECU is the same as the 4G64 as far as the SAFC is concerned.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thank you for the information, Curt. I cannot believe how many people keep asking me why I bought a 420A Eclipse. Whats worse are the people who argue with me about what kind of engine I have. If someone has never owned a Spyder they should not have the privilege (well...it should be...) to post in the 4G64 forum. For some reason this happens every time I ask a question. I love my car, and I love my engine. GTH.
 
#9 ·
I'm still lost as to why you want to install the SAFC into your car at the moment.

What parts have you bought so far to go along with your N/T - T progress?

I guess you could wire it in and set everything to 0 for the time being, until you have the turbo installed on the car.

I wouldn't change any settings, however, as faking your ECU saying you have any more air than you actually do will just make you run rich...and we all know how expensive gas is.
 
#10 ·
You don't. You lean it out. Leaner mixture can equate to more HP - especially while he is still non-turbo, where you aren't going to melt things by running lean.

In addition, do you modify *your* car by doing 10 different things at once? Most people do one thing at a time so that if something goes wrong, they can diagnose it a LOT easier.
 
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#11 ·
Spyder4G64T said:
You don't. You lean it out. Leaner mixture can equate to more HP - especially while he is still non-turbo, where you aren't going to melt things by running lean.

In addition, do you modify *your* car by doing 10 different things at once? Most people do one thing at a time so that if something goes wrong, they can diagnose it a LOT easier.
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The guy is going to get < 5 HP from doing something like that. It's not worth running the car lean and making the engine run hotter for the minimal amount of horsepower gained.

I agree it is easier to do one thing at a time.
 
#12 ·
HOT97ECLIPSEGSX said:
The guy is going to get < 5 HP from doing something like that. It's not worth running the car lean and making the engine run hotter for the minimal amount of horsepower gained.
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Oh, so you've done it, and know what you're talking about then?

In fact, there are other things that can be done while leaning it out, that combined will add a good 10-15% HP gain before he even adds the turbo. Others in our 4G64 Yahoo group have documented results.

The point is... Stop being a hater... Let him try - it's very unlikely to hurt anything while he's non-turbo, and there actually could be some noticable results, depending on other mods involved.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thank you for teaching this guy a think or two. However I doubt he is being a hater, I think he is just uninformed of the workings of our engines, and is of the opinion that the only way to make the car faster it by turning up the boost, and not making it lighter and more efficient. HOT97ECLIPSEGSX, there is no point in arguing this matter since you obviously don't understand the dynamics of our engines (not trying to be mean, but its true). If you are curios and want to know more then please read the forums and maybe even find a way to drive a few GS Spyders. The incorrect statements you made in this thread are (sadly) fairly common, but totally understandable, to me at least.

P.S. I'm not trying to bash anyone. Sorry if it seems that way.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
OK, well now, thanks to the help from Curt I have finally finished the SAFC install on my Eclipse and am ready to tune, but my new problem is that I have no idea how to. I sort of understand the correction meter, but I don't know which way will make it run leaner. does anyone have a tutorial? I tried reading the manual, but it assumes that you know something, and the English translation isn't always that great (ENGINE STOP PLEASE!). Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks much!
 
#15 ·
Topletback said:
OK, well now, thanks to the help from Curt I have finally finished the SAFC install on my Eclipse and am ready to tune, but my new problem is that I have no idea how to. I sort of understand the correction meter, but I don't know which way will make it run leaner. does anyone have a tutorial? I tried reading the manual, but it assumes that you know something, and the English translation isn't always that great (ENGINE STOP PLEASE!). Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks much!
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You go in the minus catagory to lean it out. You're "minus'ing" airflow, which means the ECU will send less fuel. I wouldn't play with the low settings too much, as you have no need, and it won't really do anything. Play with the high settings. Do you have a logger or a O2 gauge at least? Without one of those, you'll really not be able to do much. You can start by leaning it out like 5% across the board on the high settings, and see how it feels. You'll not want to go much below .86 on the O2 meter on full throttle throughout the RPM range.
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! That was the answer I have been looking for all week. I feel like I can finally sleep. One other questions however, how would you define "much"? I just dont want to over do it....

Again, thanks for the help! Do you have any other tips for me on how to operate my new toy?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I have another question. In the throttle type setting it gives me three options: Arrow up, Arrow level, and Arrow down. Any ideas on which I should be using? In addition to that, I was playing with the airmap and found that they SAFC can give out max values in monitor mode but will not give me a max negative value reading for the air/fuel correction, Only a positive one. Any Ideas?

This is all very new, confusing and exiting to me, so I Would just like to say thank you all for the help so far!
 
#18 ·
I'm afraid I won't be much help with the settings for the Neo. I've got an original blue face v2.
 
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#19 ·
Topletback said:
I have another question. In the throttle type setting it gives me three options: Arrow up, Arrow level, and Arrow down. Any ideas on which I should be using? In addition to that, I was playing with the airmap and found that they SAFC can give out max values in monitor mode but will not give me a max negative value reading for the air/fuel correction, Only a positive one. Any Ideas?

This is all very new, confusing and exiting to me, so I Would just like to say thank you all for the help so far!
Click to expand...
Mine is set to pointing NE. I guess that'd be level?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
--- said:
Mine is set to pointing NE. I guess that'd be level?
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The only foreseeable problem with that is that you have a GSX and I have a GS. Not sure what could happen, but when you rely on the car to take you 50 miles to work and back every day, you really don't want it to break down.
 
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