seized caliper or thick pads? Extremly hot rotor

LiQUiDx · May 15, 2008

Well recently the other day I changed my rotors and pads all the way around. New powerslots and EBC greens. Everything was working great except my front passenger setup.

After the installation I went for a drive and noticed that only the FR rotor was extremly hot after some light braking and there was also smoke coming from the wheel well. I took everything off and re-installed it and it was doing the same thing. I greased up the caliper pins pretty good too. I thought it was my caliper seizing up so I ordererd a new one and it's on it's way. In the mean time I put on my stock rotor and pads incase the caliper was infact dead so I wouldn't warp the new powerslot.

With the old setup on I didn't have any problems at all. Free rotation at the wheel with no binding. I decided to try the old rotor with the new pads. They are heating up the wheel pretty hot too with little to no braking just like it was doing with the powerslot rotor on.

Is it possible that the new EBCs were just a bit too thick and causing a constant rub on the rotor since it's doing the same thing w/the old rotor as well when I had the pads on it?

Oh and the powerslot rotor ended up changing color a bit too from the heat and I am able to compress both pistons in with pliers.

Thanks
Scott

kqodprez · May 15, 2008

Well you know that it's not a seized caliper. Does the boot look good? If you were worried about the thickness of the EBC's then you should've measured them against some stock brakes (lifetime warranty somewhere). Also maybe they are just breaking in on the new rotors and you have to drive it for a lil bit. Smoke is going to come from the wheel with new brake/rotor installation.

740 Turbo Brick · May 15, 2008

If they smell like burning brakes then theres something wrong. I just went thru this with my RR rotor on my GS. Rotor was getting so hot it melted the brake pad and the wheel was too hot to touch. Turned out the piston needed lubed and there was rust on it that needed sanded off. Works great now.

LiQUiDx · May 15, 2008

Yeah, they smelled horrible and it was only the one side that was doing it. Should I go ahead and just get the new caliper and see if that will help out the problem? Even with the new pads and old rotors the wheel and rotor are still getting hot to the point of melting plastic quickly unlike the other 3. I'll drive it some more tonight and see how it is and get back to everyone tomorrow night when I return from the beach (not driving there lol)

Also I just noticed it today. I was doing some harder braking and when I would brake hard the car would pull to the right. Is it just because my alignment is off and pulls to the right already or because the brake is fubard up? Never used to do that either

burnnxs · May 15, 2008

Did you clean the new rotors with brake clean? They could be full of oil or grease from your hands.... Remember to flush your brake fluid every 2 years.

LiQUiDx · May 17, 2008

Yes I did clean the rotors and I just flushed and put new fluid in last month or so. I've been driving around some more and the rotor isn't getting as hot as it has been so I'm not sure if it really was just the pad but tomorrow I will swap out the old rotor with the new and take in around the block a few times and see how it fares out then.

Thanks
Scott

blue91 · May 17, 2008

This is a fairly common problem with aftermarket pads; the problem may be the brake pad backing interface with the caliper bracket. I would reccomend dissasembly, then check to see how tight the pads fit into the bracket. I have ran across this many times, where the pads are too tight in the bracket and won't easily return upon pedal release. Easy remedy; LIGHTLY remove some of the paint / material on the pad backing edges with a roloc disc or file (also be certain the bracket channels are cleaned well). Check fit the pads frequently while doing this to ensure you don't remove too much. The pads should have little to no lateral movement, yet are able to be easily installed and slid into the bracket by hand. would also reccomend using an anti-seize compound on this area (not on the slide pins, rubber does not agree with anti- seize). Hope this is helpfull.

LiQUiDx · May 17, 2008

Thank you for the info. I'll take a look at that tomorrow when I get home from work. I do know that a good bit of pad material has been removed just from driving around with them rubbing on the rotor though...

blue91 · May 17, 2008

Just so there's no confusion, I wasn't referring to the actual pad lining. I was referring to the point where the brake pad backing (the metal portion that the caliper piston contacts) meets the caliper bracket (the part which bolts to the knuckle). The bracket locates the pads, Which are in turn squeezed by the caliper. The pads must be able to slide back and forth freely inside the bracket, or they will constantly be exerting a force upon the rotor surface. With this constant force applied, large ammounts of heat will build, hence the smoke, smell, etc..

rlmeskimen · Aug 15, 2008

Morning,

Did you ever get this one figured out? I have had this happen 3 times, twice on American cars and once on a Honda. All three times, it was a collapsed rubber brake line. I assume you found the problem but rubber lines are notorious for collapsing. Good luck.

Ryan

LiQUiDx · Aug 16, 2008

Yes, I got it fixed. I don't know exactly what it was but I just put the stock rotor back on and let the pad burn down to the right thickness. I have SS brake lines. It was odd though knowing it was only the one set that did it out of the 4.

burnnxs · Aug 16, 2008

LiQUiDx said:
Yes, I got it fixed. I don't know exactly what it was but I just put the stock rotor back on and let the pad burn down to the right thickness. I have SS brake lines. It was odd though knowing it was only the one set that did it out of the 4.

So you didn't get it fixed...
Try getting measurements on both OE and after market the pads and rotors.
I would rule out the caliper because it doesn't happen with the stockers...

Does your car has ABS?

burnnxs · Aug 16, 2008

oops double post Continues--

It sounds like you have a sticky valve on the ABS system.
Return to the after market set up "but" remove the ABS fuse and check back with the results.

...And no I have no idea of where is the fuse located.

Ripper_XX · Aug 16, 2008

I have the same pads on my car, no problems here, although thats not to say that you got a bad batch out of spec or something.

I agree though look up what the stock specs are for the rotors and pads. Then compare to the aftermarket pieces, it could be that, that one rotor is thicker than it should be. Which if it is not a drilled rotor can likely be milled down to spec.

I know the TMP drilled and slotted rotors I got are actually a hair thiner than stock rotors. Which considering I use aftermarket pads as well I figured wasn't that bad of a thing.

infinity2006 · Sep 11, 2008

I have the same pads...EBC greenstuff but it sounds like you have a sticking caliper or sticking pads. Remember the ebc greenstuff pads have a rubbery coating on the pads upon install. You shouldn't have to resort back to the stock rotor to " burn them in" as i have seen scanning this post. Another thing is to confirm that the pad isnt binding once it is installed. seems minor but if you are using the original clips that hold the pad on the caliper they could be getting stuck once you press the brake the first time.

this may be no help but when i did mine i rebuilt my brakes, bought new hardware, (clips and all) resurfaced the oem calipers and had them powdercoated. Now i just wish i didnt get oxidation and rust from rotors that arent supposed to rust...ha

importgeek · Sep 14, 2008

So did the new caliper work and fix the problem?

seized caliper or thick pads? Extremly hot rotor

LiQUiDx

kqodprez

740 Turbo Brick

LiQUiDx

burnnxs

LiQUiDx

blue91

LiQUiDx

blue91

rlmeskimen

LiQUiDx

burnnxs

burnnxs

Ripper_XX

infinity2006

importgeek

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