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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Red1991TSI said:
I bet it's your waterpump!;)
Very well could be, we will see on monday.
 
Have you rechecked your head studs. I put mine on double tripple checked them. Drove it in town for a month raced most nights and the one time I tried to drive it 2 hours home halfway into it the thing overheated. Trailered it home and one or two studs in the middle had stretched I believe. Got a new head stock gasket and torqued them hookers to 130 never had a problem after that. Call me crazy but it works.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
car_freak66 said:
Have you rechecked your head studs. I put mine on double tripple checked them. Drove it in town for a month raced most nights and the one time I tried to drive it 2 hours home halfway into it the thing overheated. Trailered it home and one or two studs in the middle had stretched I believe. Got a new head stock gasket and torqued them hookers to 130 never had a problem after that. Call me crazy but it works.
I Retorqued them after letting the engine do the initial first break in.

I rechecked them again after my first date at the track. No change

I rechecked them again At the track and then did a compression test.

I have rechecked them a 4th time, all within 650 miles and they dont need any extra torque.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Heater lines replaced, lower radiator hose replaced. NO CHANGE

Radiator from my GST put in, 2g Radiator Fan put on. NO CHANGE

Looks like I will be replacing the water pump next and see if that does it, if it doesnt, I am all out of ideas.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Questions.

Stock mitsu Head gasket on a engine .020 over.... Problem?

Seems Mitsu fucked up and gave me a stock gasket.
 
Get some A1's and stock mitsu HG. Start looking for a radiator. Put a fluidyne in mine and never looked back. Thing can rev at 3800 for a while and the 1st fan still does not come on. I had a idle problem at one point.:chair:
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
Well, pulled the water pump and I cant see with my untrained eye anything wrong with the fins inside. Going to just pull the head tomorrow if the thunderstorms are not too bad. Supposed to have T-Storms for the next two days supposedly.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Red1991TSI said:
Impeller shouldn't be rusted like that unless you're only running water or you're running too weak of a coolant mixture.
I was only running water for the last couple weeks because I was pushing so much, to figure out what was going on. Normally I run 50% coolant and 50% Distilled water but am switching to distilled water and water wetter.

Some of that stuff is also the ultraviolet dye I used to finding leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
Red1991TSI said:
Fair enough. I'm sure you already know running either just water wetter or low dilution coolant will shorten the life of the WP bearing. Was there any indication of weeping from the weep hole?
Not a drop of leaking from the water pump, the bearing feels the same on the old one as the new OEM one I have from JNZ.

I figure, I cant see anything wrong with the pump so instead of taking the risk of throwing on a new pump, buttoning up everything and testing it and it not being the problem I will just be adding an extra 2 hours of work in the super hot humid heat.

I am going to be picking up one of those straight bars for testing to make sure everything is right so I can finally use my feeler gauges! :D
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
I need to see my finances to see if I can afford to O ring the head, also need to see what the local shop will charge to do it. They charged me $45 or $50 to resurface my Effing flywheel but I needed to get it done so I went ahead and paid it.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
Well, it looks like the water pump didnt do the trick, replaced it and still doing it. Kind of dark outside but I went looking around the super hot engine bay today after my pull I did ( where I smelled a little oil WTF ) and found a little bit under the JMFab SMIM at the bottom of the head near cylinder #2. I will take a better look tomorrow and likely pull everything back off and yank the head and decide, if I want to get it ringed in town at the local race shop or just ship it to jack to do it. The local shop in town are rapists, lowest they could go on a flywheel resurface was $50. :mad:

I am going to rent the pressure tester again tomorrow and retest the system. Whats the max pressure I should go to? I did only 13psi when I tested, no book came with it. I figured, it was a 13psi radiator cap, 13psi should be fine.
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
Ill do some googling on it. I need to get this taken care of, My 35r should be here sometime this week.
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
jeffgst said:
I figured that. I couldn't see a water pump fixing this problem. The real fix is the O-rings in the head or block.
Well, with no exhaust gas in the coolant, figured it was worth a try plus, I had a Autozone water pump in the car, dont mind putting in a OEM one hehe.

Head is almost off the car, just taking a break from the 90 degree 90-100% humidity day right now. Ill likely be taking the head down tomorrow to the local shop to have it O ringed.
 
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