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nad said:
Loosen the actual idle switch with the spade on it?
Yes. That spade connector won't be used for a 2g. The 2g TPS has the idle switch built within it. Sounds like you're getting closer. Anything vacuum/air related, as well as some mechanical things can cause your issues. Adjusting the throttle stop may just be it.

Have you adjusted base idle as stated in the manual? This is important for the ECU to know where it stands when trying to regulate proper idle.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
So I just take the idle switch out or just loosen it up? No, I haven't adjusted base idle, because any time I back the BISS screw out a little bit, it starts idling at like 2500-3000.
 
nad said:
So I just take the idle switch out or just loosen it up? No, I haven't adjusted base idle, because any time I back the BISS screw out a little bit, it starts idling at like 2500-3000.
Loosen the lock nut and back out a little bit. Don't remove it entirely or the throttle will stick shut.

If for some reason you believe the TB rebuild is the issue. Send it back to me and I'll rework it free of charge.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Oh I don't think that should have anything to do with it. Unless you know you did something wrong ;)

I'll mess with it some today. Back that idle switch out a bit and see if that does anything.
 
You can isolate the IPS as the problem if when you disconnect it the idle drops or stabilizes. Higher idle is from either the ecu incorrectly managing idle speed controller or from too much air leaking in from somewhere so the ecu adds fuel to richen the lean mix and that results in increased rpms.
 
nad said:
Oh I don't think that should have anything to do with it. Unless you know you did something wrong ;)

I'll mess with it some today. Back that idle switch out a bit and see if that does anything.
If I knew I did something wrong, it wouldn't have went out to you in the first place. Just because I do the work, doesn't mean something can't go wrong afterwards. It just means I back up my work in case something does that is attributable to me.:)
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Yeah, I was just kidding. Anyway, I backed out the idle switch, and that didn't help much. It still idles right at 1400 RPMs. And it surges and cuts out kinda at idle too. I tried turning the idle switch in and out while it was running and it didn't seem to make much difference.

I'm pretty much fresh out of ideas and will probably just take it to the shop some time this week. I gotta take it there to get it tuned and everything anyway.
 
You need to disconnect the switch and reconnect the switch and see if that changes idle, not move it in and out. To set the ips simply screw it down until it closes the circuit between the blade on the switch and the tb, then lock it down.
 
Any time you up the airflow on second gen you must adjust the BISS screw properly. This does not mean just turn it.:rolleyes: Drive til it reaches operating temp. Park and turn off everything electrical. locate the brown plug on the firewall behind the throttle body. Notice you have two fans? Wait til the passenger side stops. Ground the wire (brown plug) with aligator clips. Turn the BISS til desired idle met. Turn off the car. Diconnect the ground to the wire. Start and drive. Rise and repeat if needed.
 
Higher RPM's are achieved by allowing air to enter the Intake manifold.
 
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