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flipjbm

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Well my car has been down for a while now. I've been having to come home from college to work on it and it seems like I'm getting no where. I recently installed a Fidanza flywheel and ACT 2900 with a street disc. I've installed clutches before and it's basically just a day project that isn't too hard. Well a friend and I dropped everything out, installed the clutch and flyhwheel (along with a new throwout bearing), then put it all back together. Once we get everything together, it's about time for me to go back to school, but when I start the car up and go to put it in gear, it just won't go in at all. Reverse however did want to grind. It will go into gear when the tranny is off, but as soon as the car is turned on, the shifter won't budge into any gear (it hasn't been forced in nor has it been started while in gear). I was shocked by this (the car drove right before I pulled the tranny) and since it was getting late I had to call it a weekend so I could get back. After a week of pondering what it could be, we came to the conclusion that it could be the clutch disc put in backwards (I know that would be a major mistake but when you're cruising through working on your car, I'm sure it happens), the master cylinder leaking (we did see a very slight leak under steering column area), or just a general problem with the clutch itself.

Well after searching forums for the past week, I figured I was ready to try and fix the problem. Here's a list of what I went through this weekend (2nd weekend working on this clutch problem):

1. Disassemble car again to check the clutch/clutch disc - this checked out fine
2. Replace the master cylinder - new one is now installed
3. Check clutch adjustment - we did check it before we installed the clutch but we fiddled with it again, it is now all the way extended out to try and get the max amount of movement
4. Check fork placement in the rubber boot - I've shimmed my pivot ball before so I wouldn't think I would have to shim it again, it checked out fine with the fork being just barely to the driver side from the middle (passenger side would mean to shim it)
5. Bleed the crap out of it again since the new master cylinder is in - bled it with the 2 person method (one pumps the clutch and holds, other bleeds), then finished it with the slave cylinder rod pump method, got crystal clear brake fluid coming out

After assembling the car and doing all those fixes, I'm still not able to put it into gear. So now here is where you guys come in. The only thing left I can think of to check is the slave cylinder, which I replaced probably a year ago. It doesn't have any fluid collecting in the boot and seems to be working properly, but I figured it's worth a try to replace it (I have a new one coming in the morning from Advance). Also I did check the shift fork against my friend's that he had out of his car and it does not look bent at all. I do have an extended slave cylinder rod as well (I know it's a band-aid type fix but I got it for free) and a new stainless steel braided clutch line.

The car right now is sitting assembled and I really don't want to have to pull the tranny again and all that mess. The clutch feels like it's getting really good pressure and you can see the clutch fork moving, so I'm just really confused to what it could be. Let me know if you think there is something that I'm overlooking. I've double checked my work (literally because I've installed everything twice now) and I've ran through the diagnoses that I can think of. Any thoughts or help will be greatly appreciated.

Just for your information, my car is a 1993 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD manual with a 6 bolt installed in it.

Thanks
-Jared
 
What about your pedal assembly? It's possible it's worn out and needs welded. Get rid of the extended slave rod, it's doing nothing for you.
+1 billion. It's about time someone realizes the ext. slave rods are junk. Anyway it's definitely an issue with your clutch not being able to disengage fully, or at all. This is confirmed by the fact that you can go in and out of gear with ease when the car is off.

So check your pedal assembly, make sure your clutch adjustment is on, check for leaks in the hyd. system. Clutch adjustment is easy, but very tedious. There is a very fine line between working just right and not working at all.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I'll get rid of the extended slave cylinder rod. I totally didn't even think about the pedal assembly. That looks to be the problem because I have about an inch of upwards play in the clutch pedal.

Now what's the best way to go about this problem? I did a few searches and have found that you are supposed to replace the parts (clutch pedal and the bracket that connects to the shaft), weld the bracket to the shaft, or do a combination of both. I would think that doing both would be the best since you're starting with fresh parts but I didn't know if that would just be a waste of money since welding is basically free for me. I will be pulling the assembly possibly today (although I've heard its a pain to do) so I can get a good look at everything. I won't be able to finish today though because I'll be going back to college later this evening.

-Jared
 
Definitely a pain. If you're looking to just grab a decent one, look to the junkyard in the 1.8 and 2.0 n/t models. Typically they'll have pedal assemblies in much better shape than their turbo counter parts.
 
Try replacing the slave, the exact same thing happened to me once with my old Galant VR4. I was having rediculous disengagement issues, I had a month old slave and master cylinder so I was almost positive that it wasn't a hydraulic problem. After trying everything it turns out that my slave was already shot. I have heard over extending the rod when it's removed can cause issues, I've always let it extend when I remove the slave for a clutch job and it's only caused an issue once. So you may want to try a new slave.

If that doesn't work here are some disengagement problems I've run into with Mitsus before:

Also- if you hear clicking at the top of the pedal it's probably be the pedal assembly (assuming you checked the fork correctly).

It's been a while since I've worked on a 1G, but, I know that on 3000GT's with aftermarket clutches the firewall where the master cylinder is bolted to can actually bend which affects the clutch disengagment. It's usually remedied by welding a reinforcement plate where additional strength is needed.

Also, could be a fractured clutch fork- I've seen them crack and still function before. Usually it's a one of the "tongs" that attach to the TOB. One will break and you will have disengament issues but it will still feel like you have a clutch. In my experience, this is more common on 2Gs though.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Well I worked on it today again. I replaced the slave cylinder (a friend at Advance just took my old one and put it as "defective" and gave me a new one for free) for my last saving grace before I would have to pull the clutch pedal assembly. Of course it didn't fix the problem. So I went ahead and pulled the pedal assembly. It wasn't as big of pain as I thought it would be. I pulled the seat out so I could lay flat on. It probably took about 2 hours. The biggest problem was moving the wires around and that stupid relay bracket. Once I got it out, you can see the bracket that slides on to the clutch pedal rod is a little worn where the rectangle hole is. Also where the master cylinder attaches to that bracket with a pin, the hole there is really enlarged.

I took pics but I won't be able to upload them until later tonight. I think I'm going to go with replacing the bracket and clutch pedal along with the bushings route and on top weld it just to make sure. I saw JNZ Tuning had a assembly rebuild kit, so I'm going to give them a call tomorrow and see what it includes.

I just need to know where exactly it needs to be welded. I can see that the bracket needs to be welded to the clutch pedal rod, but when you weld it there, does that eliminate the nut that goes on that rod? I can also see welding it will cause it to heat up and possibly damage the bushing on the other side, so precautions will have to be taken there as well.

Twinturbo3k, I was hoping it was the slave, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I've double checked and replaced almost everything on the hydraulic system now. Also, I don't think the firewall issue with 3000GT's is the same for 1g dsms. The master cylinder bolts to studs that slide through the firewall and attach to the clutch pedal assembly. So if the firewall bent, that would mean that the pedal assembly bent which would move the master cylinder to a different position. The clutch fork seemed to be in fine condition as well. I had to compare it pretty closely to my friends. I even busted out the caliper to check the distances from the pivot ball attachment to the fork tips where the TOB attaches just to make sure it was the same as his.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully this pedal assembly problem will be the answer. I actually won't know for about 2 weeks when I come home again for spring break though. I'll have all the replacement parts by then. Let me know your thoughts on the issue.

-Jared
 
Definitely a pain. If you're looking to just grab a decent one, look to the junkyard in the 1.8 and 2.0 n/t models. Typically they'll have pedal assemblies in much better shape than their turbo counter parts.



Excellent advice... I did this last fall, with a 1.8 model... The pedal is better than new... There is even less working parts on this model...


DO NOT WELD A THING>>>>>>> GO GET A NEW ASSEMBLY> from the junkyard.....

You'll pay less than $30 and it's 100 times better than a rebuild + weld...

REPEAT>>>>>
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I understand that the idea of getting one from a n/t at the junkyard would be cheaper and obtaining an assembly thats less abused, but is the assembly able to hold the abuse of a turbo application with a high pressure clutch. Like you said there are less working parts which would make that assembly "different" and of course a non-turbo pressure plate definitely doesn't put out that much pressure compared to a turbo application. What's stopping it from wearing out faster than a turbo assembly that has "brand new" parts and welded so that such parts are less likely to fail? It's definitely a way I would go if it works out to be better than replacing the parts/welding it.

But I will replace the parts and weld it if its a better route even if it costs me a little more.

Now here are some pics of the worn parts on my pedal assembly:

Image

Image

Image


You can definitely tell where the pin from the master cylinder is wearing out the hole on that bracket. Also, I know you can't tell from the pics, but the squared hole does have some play on the actual clutch pedal rod.

Now I just need some advice on welding it. I just need the questions I stated early to be answered. Hopefully someone can chime in.

"I just need to know where exactly it needs to be welded. I can see that the bracket needs to be welded to the clutch pedal rod, but when you weld it there, does that eliminate the nut that goes on that rod? I can also see welding it will cause it to heat up and possibly damage the bushing on the other side, so precautions will have to be taken there as well."

Thanks in advance.

-Jared
 
My only point is that the 1.8's and 2.0 n/t typically don't see stiff clutches like the turbo models do. And as far as I know, they pedal assemblies are exactly the same. My 1.8 is holding just fine with a stiff clutch after the 2.0t swap.
 
They are not EXACTLY the same... You see that GIANT spring attached to the assembly on the turbo model..... Its not on the 1.8...



I pulled my turbo assembly out and swapped to the 1.8 and still had 3races left in my season.... I was using a ACT 2600/ street disc.. I'm now using it with a QUARTERMASTER....


NO problems...


I did however weld my old assembly the same way everyone else does... It didnt
last a week... Then I bought the 1.8 assembly...

So just like alot of people...I lived and learned... And now I'm trying to pass on this info before you waste time and money...

This is how many times I've layed upside down doin the pedals....


1. Pulling the original assembly
2. Bought the rebuild kit.... $150...Welded and reinstalled
3. Pulled it again after it went bad..
4. At junkyard pulling 1.8 assembly
5. Reinstallin it in my car..
6. Pulled the column one more time to get the steering wheel str8..

All this in a 2day weekend..
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
You guys are quite convincing haha. Kronus, what clutch are you currently running with the 1.8 assembly?

Jo ho, I'm glad you told me that you did a rebuild and welded your old assembly and it still failed. It definitely makes me lean more towards the 1.8 assembly. I'm going to try and make it out to the local junkyard to see if there are any good assemblies in the 1.8's.

Also Jo ho, you haven't had any problems with the spring back of the pedal? I would think the giant spring was to help the pedal recoil back to full position.

-Jared
 
Ok mine is doing the samething but mine grinds going in to gears but it wont let me all the way in my trany moves a little bit at the bottom. I have replced everything if i try to start it in gear it jumps forward i just dont get it m ine is a 1992 eagle talon fwd turbo with a act fly wheel and clutch kit. Please help me lol.
 
You guys are quite convincing haha. Kronus, what clutch are you currently running with the 1.8 assembly?
-Jared
My PP is equivalent to an ACT 2600.

Ok mine is doing the samething but mine grinds going in to gears but it wont let me all the way in my trany moves a little bit at the bottom. I have replced everything if i try to start it in gear it jumps forward i just dont get it m ine is a 1992 eagle talon fwd turbo with a act fly wheel and clutch kit. Please help me lol.
Start your own thread. :rolleyes: But you said your tranny moves? Check all of your tranny to block bolts and check all the ears on the tranny and block where they meet.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Well I just got back from the junkyard. I went around to all the eclipses, talons, lasers, and galants. I'd say 50% of them were manual. Most of them had play in them when pulling them up. I came across two that didn't seem to have any play at all. So I went to town on one of them. Took me about an hour to pull it. When I got it out, I took the 14mm nut off the clutch rod that holds the bracket on. It had just barely some play in it, but when it was installed on the car, I couldn't feel it. Is this unit in usable shape? I also noticed that on this assembly the hole on the bracket where the master cylinder connects with a pin had a bushing in it. As you can see from my damaged bracket in the pics above, there is no bushing to be found. That could be an issue too.

I'm still kind of hesitant to buy one from the junkyard because I am still get a "used" part compared to new replacement parts.

-Jared
 
I have to ask... do you own a dsm? You live in Aruba and claim to have a starion with all of 10 posts?

They are not EXACTLY the same... You see that GIANT spring attached to the assembly on the turbo model..... Its not on the 1.8...
The difference that you mention, can be found between 90 and 91-later cars. So, who's to say it's a turbo thing?

I did however weld my old assembly the same way everyone else does... It didnt
last a week... Then I bought the 1.8 assembly...
Possible you welded it wrong?

I've got a 90 AWD with 200,000 miles and 60,000 miles on an ACT2600/welded pedal. There are hundreds of DSMers that have done the same repair and have not had issues. It works if done right.
 
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