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Discussion starter · #21 ·
So I pulled the engine out last night and pulled off the front case. Any secrets on how to get that rear seal on the front balance shaft out? It looks impossible to me ha. Opinions?

O yeah, and i dont want to just leave the shaft in there. Thats white trash ha.
 
Did you notice if your oil squirting units we're removed or if they we're still in place? The machine shop took mine out, and never returned them with my block. Now they don't know where they went. I'm pretty pissed about that. I would rather have the squirts then block them off. Bastards!
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Did you notice if your oil squirting units we're removed or if they we're still in place? The machine shop took mine out, and never returned them with my block. Now they don't know where they went. I'm pretty pissed about that. I would rather have the squirts then block them off. Bastards!
7 bolt. No squirters. But yeah i would be pissed too. The machine shop forgot to give me back my crank bolt. Ha and i had them ship it to me but it never showed up. Had to get another one.
 
So I pulled the engine out last night and pulled off the front case. Any secrets on how to get that rear seal on the front balance shaft out? It looks impossible to me ha. Opinions?

O yeah, and i dont want to just leave the shaft in there. Thats white trash ha.


Here's a trick for you mate, take your balance shaft(either one will work) turn it around(like your trying to install it backwards) and you'll notice it will not fit all the way through the bearing. Fit it level against the bearing, and take a hammer to the balance shaft. It WILL take a few good strong hits to hit it out, and be careful you don't break the bearing. It takes a few tries, but if my 20 year old drama queen sister can do it, a military dude like yourself can handle it.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Here's a trick for you mate, take your balance shaft(either one will work) turn it around(like your trying to install it backwards) and you'll notice it will not fit all the way through the bearing. Fit it level against the bearing, and take a hammer to the balance shaft. It WILL take a few good strong hits to hit it out, and be careful you don't break the bearing. It takes a few tries, but if my 20 year old drama queen sister can do it, a military dude like yourself can handle it.
Hahah good stuff yeah good idear. Should i use that to press the new bearing back in as well?
 
Hahah good stuff yeah good idear. Should i use that to press the new bearing back in as well?
Yeah, it works fine. You don't need the bearing for shit but a block-off plate, so as long as it doesn't get too damaged your fine. You can use the Balance shaft to knock it back in, but you have to do it a certain way. Just pressing it against the bearing will stretch the bearing out and it won't work. You'll have to tap it in slowly until 1/8th of the bearing is in the hole evenly, and then you can put the end of the shaft against the bearing and drive it home without worrying about it going through the bearing.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Yeah, it works fine. You don't need the bearing for shit but a block-off plate, so as long as it doesn't get too damaged your fine. You can use the Balance shaft to knock it back in, but you have to do it a certain way. Just pressing it against the bearing will stretch the bearing out and it won't work. You'll have to tap it in slowly until 1/8th of the bearing is in the hole evenly, and then you can put the end of the shaft against the bearing and drive it home without worrying about it going through the bearing.
It came right out by hitting it out with the shaft. I had these aluminum bearing presses that have a hole in the center of them that was perfect for the end of the b/s. I just slid the press on there and got the bearing up in front of the hole and it fit perfect for the bearing. Hit it right in with no problems. The problems came when i had everything together and one of my oil pan bolts snapped :(. I think it was just old and weak. But im goin to take today off and have it running tomorrow hopefully!
 
They make SS oil pan bolt kits these days too. Not too expensive. If you want to do without the corrosion / rusting bolts and subsequent breaking going forward.

2G blocks have squirters btw...

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/crankwalk.htm

So do us both a favor and stop posting that they don't. They definitely DO.
Capeesh?
 
BTW most part stores will not let you return electrical parts after they were installed, so make damn sure you are correct in your diag before you replace parts.
 
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