I guess I should've included more information in my first post. I just didn't want to start off too long winded. The car is being set-up for road racing, in particular NASA's Performance Touring class (I have a build thread going on here). Basically, classing is points based as in every mod is assessed points (ex- boost controller is 4 points, non-OEM brake calipers are 2 points, etc). Every 20 points moves the car up a class. Furthermore each class has a maximum weight/power ratio. My target weight and class limits me to approx 210 awhp. I didn't just randomly make that number up.
That said, I'm looking to make only as much power as I can without 'sacrificing' points that I could use elsewhere (tires, suspension, etc.) I'm also stuck with the t25 as any aftermarket turbo requires automatic dyno-reclassing.
You could also put an exhaust on it if you dont already have one, confused by your post. Buy a boost controller and raise the boost up a little bit. I would say ~15 lbs or so. Oh and if you are going to get that BOV and intake pipe, make sure to recirculate.
Andrew
Sorry for the confusion, I do already have a 3" catback (not sure of brand off the top of my head). I just figured I could ditch it in favor of weight savings. As it will be a track car, I don't really care about noise too much (some tracks do have db limits).
Boost controller is a big 4 points, but looks like it will probably be a necessity. I already have the BOV recirculated. The parts I don't yet have are the ones indicated in parenthesizes in my original post. The others I already have.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Talon
And I quote directly from Wikipedia
Engines
ESi - 2.0 L DOHC Chrysler 420A/ECH I4, 140 hp at 6000 rpm and 130 ft·lbf at 4800 rpm
TSi AWD manual transmission - 2.0 L Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo I4, 210 hp at 6000 rpm and 214 ft·lbf at 3000 rpm
TSi AWD automatic transmission - 2.0 L Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo I4, 205 hp at 6000 rpm and 220 ft·lbf at 3000 rpm
force feed, he wants 210awhp, not 210 chp.
True. I'm looking for 210ish at the wheels. I know what the stock ratings are.
Dude, slap a 14b on there and some evo injectors and you can do like 250hp easy.
I would love to just throw a 14b on there instead of the pos t25, but I can't as I (tried) to explain in this post. Hope it makes sense.
Start with free mods:
1: Hack Aircan and Intake Area
2: Clean Throttle Body
3: Verify that WOT is 100%
4: Check IC outlet Pipe for Corrosion
5: Open up the Fender Liner
6: Clean the Intercooler
7: Remove the BCS Restrictor
8: Check Base Timing
9: Valve Cover Vent Breather
10: Pressure Test the Intake
After the free mods, start with the following
(275-300 hp)
1: Manual Boost Guage
2: Intake Pipe and Filter
3: Boost Controller
4: O2 Sensor Housing
5: High Flow Downpipe
6: High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe
7: Cat-back Exhaust System
8: Fuel Pump
9: Intercooler Piping
I've read all the upgrade paths. And as your post shows they're set-up for a much higher goal than I'm looking for. Not to mention most of what is listed has already been done.
You can't get anywhere near 300whp from a T25 force fed, it just can not flow enough air to support that. My car dynoed at 219 wheel on a T25 GST about 2 weeks ago, 75 degrees ambient in Michigan, high humidity. Yours will be a bit harder to do since yours is a AWD but you should be able to get fairly close.
Thanks for this post. I tried to find past posts with these types of numbers with a mod list, but wasn't having much luck.
As for my build, pretty much any fuel related mod cost (fuel rail, injectors, pump, etc) is 2 points. So if I touch one part of the system, I'll probably just go all out on the rest of it since I'll be taking points anyway.
Dude, put some cams and a evo3 intake manifold and evo3 turbo manifold on there. See how far you can get out of the t25 hp wise.
Sounds fun.
...To try to show my perspective a bit, intake manifold is 1 point, cams are 6 points and exhaust manifold is 2 points. I would be willing to pick up a $500 SMIM over a $100 exhaust manifold if it were going to show similar gains due to how the point system works.
I'm not saying that the intake would be worth more, just using it as an example.
Buy a supra smic for 75 bucks. If you're not planning on taking the car any further don't spend 500 on link just buy an AFC1 for 120 bucks. Wideband is great though, well worth what you'll pay for it.
Other than that port the fuck out of your O2 and manifold.
Evo injectors can be found for about 100 bucks if you look hard enough, so can a Walbro pump. Also, pick up a logger to monitor fuel trims etc...
For like 500 bucks you'll be ballin.
I already have Link.
This has got to be bench racing....
I see where you're coming from, but it's been hard to find what I'm looking for as far as information goes, considering the direction most DSMers take their cars is different than myself. Normally I'm all about going overkill on things, but I don't want to take points unless I absolutely need to in order to meet my goals. I hope this makes sense as well.
Sounds like he's asking for suggestions. Not that all of these have been covered a million times before and this is a super repost to the max. :chair:
Probably true, but most people aren't limited to what power they can make.
I beg to differ to an extent.... He says he doesnt even have some of these parts yet.... Thats like saying how do I get 500whp, I have an AWD car... Whats next...
If you cant get 200 or 210 whp out of a turbo-charged car, you shouldnt own a turbo-charged car...
lol. It's not like that, I swear.
Anyway, I appreciate all the replies and hope that I may have cleared somethings up in this post. Thanks.
