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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Hmmm, ok please instill a little more confidence than THAT! Seriously though, is there anything that can seriously be fucked up or any other bearings/parts that I'll need to have with the crank off other than the main bearings and thrust washers?
 
I have seriously never heard ARP's being crap before, Ive heard of people stretching them but either at high levels of power or neglect in tune ( detonation) But I mean if you right your right, I dont have time to look it up right now but Ill look for it later. You stretching them at 400 whp without detonation? Aggressive timing/ high cylinder pressures?
All in still, I bought the car with these ARP's and I doubt I will break them, if I do Ill go onto of a mountain and scream K man was right...
 
No, I stretched them at 400whp, no knock, no aggressive timing. My buddy who is an engineer for the Gov't took one and a stock 6bolt bolt and compared, the standard ARP is weaker it just allows for higher clamping pressure initially.

I sure hope it wasn't high cyl pressure at 400whp because the car is making almost 700 now.
 
I dont understand how std arps get such a bad rep. Im making 550whp, have gone 10.60 @135 w/out problems. My buddy made 720whp and broke two shep stg 4 4th gears and still never lifted a head. And a local guy hudson has gone as fast as 9.20 @160 with an o-ringed block and std arps. But then again theres guys local that has lifted the head on 15psi w/50 trim type turbos.
 
Kman.... Is it passable that you got a bad set of ARP's? Or maybe maybe your knock sensor was not working properly?

For everyone else...
Jake montegomery used standard arp's for his whole time in the game. His tune was spot on though. And he will tell everyone that no matter what you do if you have a dsm closer to the 1000hp mark you'll be seeming detonation. Sure if you run methanol you have less but everyone runs on pump, race gas, and water/alcohol injection. This is why rod bearings get munched so fast unless your using aluminum rods. Right there is the greatest disadvantage of a 4 cylinder motor.

K now think about this. If your getting enough detonation that standard arp's stretch. Wouldn't you rather have that then spun rod bearing? K now clamp that head on with L19's and get bad detonation. Say good bye to bottom end! I'm always under the impression that a head gasket is easier to replace. but hey, what do I know ;)
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Well all some good points made, I think it's just everyone has a different experience and no two motors are exactly alike. Btw someone still needs to explain what "O-ringing the block" means to my stupid ass. Ha!
 
car was not detonating knock sensor works just fine.

The big dogs in the past who used them drilled and tapped for 1/2in studs.
 
Still no one has clarified what O-ringed block is or how to do it.
There's a good article easily found on google from I think Hotrod magazine on the subject.

After having a chance to look at a Top Fuel block this weekend I noticed the heads on them are oringed as well and they dont' just use a ring of wire but a 1/4in flat steel ring that sits up inside the head.

Neat stuff.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
There's a good article easily found on google from I think Hotrod magazine on the subject.

After having a chance to look at a Top Fuel block this weekend I noticed the heads on them are oringed as well and they dont' just use a ring of wire but a 1/4in flat steel ring that sits up inside the head.

Neat stuff.
I just checked out O-ringing the block, sounds like any good machine shop can do this. The question is what thickness did you go with K, with the stock MLS gasket?
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
So a local car buddy of mine is telling me I need to put the rods together (off the crank) with the bearings in to make sure my clearances are proper and also measure the wrist pins to make sure they don't need to be "opened." Is it really necessary for me to go outta my way to find a micrometer and measure ACL race bearings and Wiseco/Manley internals? I was under the impression that these parts are manufactured to within thousanths of an inch and will fit perfect, or pretty fuckin close. Can anyone clarify on this?
 
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