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welded clutch pedal results

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21 - 32 of 32 Posts
#21 ·
Take out the extended rod, bleed it with a regular rod in there and if it doesn't seem to work replace the stock with the extended rod, Do not re-bleed after installing the extended. You should really just find the problem before hand and not use the band aid fix (extended rod). I believe if you take the boot of your slave you will notice brake fluid in there under the boot, take a picture of the boot for us and than remove the boot and take another pic. Also take a picture of where your fork is before you push in the clutch and than after the clutch is pushed in.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
It has a ACT 2600. I bought the car recently with no problems. After 1 month the nightmare started. He told me he had an extended rod in it after I replaced the slave, master and assembly. God knows how long he had it in there. Probably too long.
 
#28 ·
That is kinda messed up, it seems like there is some binding somewhere inside the bell housing. Try doing a stock slave rod and take a picture. are you remembering when your bleeding to push the rod back into the slave body? And how exactly are you bleeding it?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Yes I did push the rod into the slave like the bleeder guide says. I was getting good fluid coming out. When the pedal gets stiff (which hasn't happened for a few weeks now) it makes a creeking sound. I haven't figured out if it is coming from the pedal assembly or the tranny.
 
#31 ·
So was this problem ever resolved? Your last post says it hasn't happened for a while. After replacing the extended rod with the stock rod did you re-bleed and re-adjust the clutch pedal again? The reason I ask is because I was dealing with the same issue and re-bleeding and re-adjusting fixed the problem. Still no downshifting to second from third without double clutching though...:dunno: Also, mine makes the same squeak noise you described and it seems to be coming from the clutch. It only happens on occasion though so I'm not sure.
 
#32 ·
Oem slave, oem master cylinder, 1 or 2 nickle thick washers under pivot ball, new oem fork, braided clutch line to replace rubber part, welded pedal assembly w/ the clutch switch screw backed out so it can raise up as high as possible, and removing the little rubber gromet on the clutch pedal that keeps pedal quiet when making contact w/ clutch switch. Oh and also making sure you have proper step on flywheel and that clutch and flywheel is installed correctly, and doing all of that and no one should have any engagement issues, they should have more than enough throw. Only thing I can add...
 
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