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Talon shuts off randomly!! Transmission???

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
CrackedDSM: I think I found the problem. This morning I popped the hood and went over everything you told me... I took a good look at the battery, and this is what I found.
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I am not sure if this is causing my problem, but if its not it still needs to be fixed. I am going to go to autozone today and see what they say/what I need to do to fix it. Seems like an easy fix.
Do you know whats wrong with that boost gauge??
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Went to autozone and picked up some new cables, its not going to be fun wiring the cable that goes to the block, but ill manage. Ill let you know if this fixes my problem. Although it is hard to tell, because sometimes I can drive 3 hours without it happening.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I fixed the battery cables today and took the car for a spin. It didn't die on me, but Ive driven the car for 3 hours without it dieing, so only time will tell.
As far as my boost gauge question goes, I am just going to assume that boost gauges work in some type of a manual way, where the vacuum line pressure pushes the dial up and down.

Question:
Under full throttle, or even under full boost at about 3000 rpms my car stutters and shakes as if its not getting enough fuel. As far as I know the turbo is stock as well as the injectors. The previous owner told me that the car needs a bigger fuel pump, but it has been explained to me that if I don't have a bigger turbo or injectors then this is not the case. I have a feeling the the fuel pump is just dieing, and I would be good to go if I replaced it. However, I do not want to replace it and still have the same problem. I would rather get the AFPR and the walbro 255 if that is going to fix my problem. I do not have a lot of money to throw around, so obviously I want the cheapest option (replacing the fuel pump with a new stock one). What do you think I should do? How can I tell if my fuel pump is dieing? (I tried listening for it, and i cannot hear anything. Are there any other options)?
 
#26 ·
Do a boost leak test before anything at all. http://vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html is a link to teach you how to build a really, really cheap tester, and how to do a test.

You really need to find out what you've got, esp if you don't know. And I wouldn't be boosting much if I didn't even have an aftermarket boost gauge hooked up. You could easily blow your motor, esp not knowing for sure what all has been done to your car.

As for your boost gauge that you've found, yes, its manual. It relies on the vacuum and boost that your car generates. The light is to keep it visable at night.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
#29 ·
Depending on what boost you are running, your stock pump may be ok with a rewire. Now that you found the reason why the car randomly died, its time to focus on why the car is breaking up on you at mid to high rpm. And most likely it is not the pump, from what you have described so far I would start with the Boost leak test as others have suggested, and After you fix all the leaks, then move onto plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, etc until it gets corrected. Good luck.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I was able to fix my MBC and turn the boost down to stock. And what do you know the fuel pump could actually keep up with the turbo! My fuel pump seems to be fine, the shaking has stopped, and I am running 10-11 pounds of boost, next on the list is a downpipe, high flow cat, and then a cat back exhaust.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
It Did It Agian! Oh No!

Took the car out for a spin, and I was having trouble seeing. So, I flipped on the high beams and continued to drive, and then all of sudden my original problem came back. The car randomly shut off, all the dash warning lights came on, and the rmps went to 0. I can fire the car back up right away and continue driving, but obviously this is something I want to fix.
My headlights: I am not sure if they are projector or not. When I have just my regular lights on, they look normal. However when I turn the high beams on, I can see (when im facing a wall) that they look like they are blue or white, definitely a different color than my regular lights.
 
#32 ·
Ok, all of the people who were telling this poor guy that his shutting off problem had something to do with plugs, wires, gapping, and bad fuel system parts are fucking stupid.....This is an obvious electrical issue that has nothing to do with spark or fuel because the car goes into the accessory position on the ignition switch when it shuts off! This should be your first clue that the gap on the spark plugs won't shut the car off like this. I realize I'm slightly new to this forum....but it seems that every problem thats posted up here can somehow magically be resolved by plugs, wires and gapping....wtf
 
#33 ·
That ground cable you fixed could definitely have had something to do with it, but obvious was not your main problem if your vehicle is still having this issue. The alternator may only be pushing out enough to keep the car running and when a high demand electrical load is placed on it (such as wipers, high beams, defrost, AC, etc.) it can't supply enough electrical power to keep the battery charged and the car running. What you should do is start the vehicle in your driveway, turn the AC on max (if equipped) turn on the rear defrost, turn the wipers on high, turn your high beams on, and turn the radio on. Now, take a DVOM and put it to DC volts. Take your positive lead and put it on the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator and your negative lead on the negative terminal of the battery. Your measured voltage should be above 13.5 volts at the very least. What this is doing is load testing the alternator and you are checking the charging voltage during high load conditions. Since your car ran fine for a couple days but shut off when you turned your headlights on makes me think this may be your issue.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I went to autozone and got it tested. He said that it was putting out about 13.5-14.5 DC volts. However the amperage was about 65 when it should be at about 75. He said that it is ok for them to be about 10% out of range (10% higher or lower than the recommended 75). With my amperage at 65, I am at about 12%. He said that my positive battery cable was a little loose, so that COULD be causing the issue, however he doubts it. He told me that the only way to know for sure would be to take the alternator off and bring it in for a different test. However, I do not have the tools to take it off -_-. I guess ill just keep the radio low and try not to use to many electrical things until I have get a new alternator.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Not so sure that is the most effective way for testing the alt, but if it works for you then more power to ya. When I get to UTI I am gonna take the alt off and have them test it. Thanks for the input snot_rocket <----nice name.
 
#38 ·
Snot Rocket said:
Here is how I have checked if the alt is putting out good amps. Simply start the car turn on headlights and pull positive lead off battery. If it stays running the alt is working good.
Click to expand...
With the modules in todays current cars and even in ones such as our 1g talons, eclipses and lasers; pulling off the positive lead while the vehicle is running to test the alternator can do more damage :tat: than you know. The voltage spike created by doing this can severely damage your vehicles ECU :chair:. Also the alternator is running at max capacity, so it has the possibility to burn that out as well :chair:. The best way to test an alternator is to use a VAT machine. ;)
 
#40 ·
It sounds like a loose electrical problem to me. If your alternator wasnt working your battery would slowly discharge and when it cuts off while driving wouldnt have enough power to restart your car. Something is loose and disrupting your power. I cant see the pics of your battery and wire, but if your connections on your battery are loose, then wow ya. Thats a problem. And the whole 10% BS thing, i have never heard that ever. Ive been testing batteries and alternators daily for almost 3 years.

The old take your cable off used to work for older generator powered cars, but its not reccommended for new ecu controlled vehicles. The voltage your getting is fine, and 65 amps is about all your ganna get from that alternator. So im pretty sure its a loose connection.
 
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