Replaced coil pack, now there's a massive leak

shadow_FIX · Nov 29, 2009

This is half in a rage (one of those "how did I possibly manage to fuck this up) and half in question.

I replaced my coil pack just fine, got that taken care of, but in the process of doing so I moved the fuel rail around to get to it, along with the black thing attached to it that the injectors' wires go to. I bolted everything back together, but left those little black plastic spacers out because I deemed them as pesky and tightened it down. I take it this was my no-no...I started it and I could hear a HUGE air leak somewhere (air? I thought I was concerned with the fuel rail?) and the engine reared up to 3k RPMs then wouldn't idle for shit. Not to mention my stupidity in snapping one of those bolts clean off, because I was retarded and left the spacers out (I lost one, too).

Here's my questions, 1. Where did I go wrong? 2. Why would there suddenly be a huge leak after doing this? 3. WTF do I do about the bolt? Can I have 2 of the 3 on there and still have everything seal okay?

Noob, I know, I can't believe I managed to fuck something up.

Thanks in advance.

Gray91GSX · Nov 29, 2009

I'm not 100 percent on this but the bolts that hold the fuel rail on also bolt through the intake manifold. Those spacers are there for a reason, pesky only if you don't put some gasket material on them to hold them to the rail while you install them. If one of those bolts are still in there then use a bolt extractor (ez-out) to get it out, if its not flush, just use pliers. Get another bolt the same size and thread and put those spacers and the three bolts back in. When it reved to 3k its because its leaking there on the intake manifold. Simple fix.

Red1991TSI · Nov 29, 2009

Did you replace the vacuum line that the fuel pressure regulator is usually attached to?

Gray91GSX · Nov 29, 2009

Oh and I see you lost one, time to make your own. You will find it after you finish fixing your car lol, I am sure of it. Get some abs plastic and cut it to size and then drill a hole through it for the bolt. I had to do the same thing on my 300zx when I replaced the injector o-rings. Lost one and couldn't find it till I finished the entire job lol.

MacGSX · Nov 29, 2009

PM me your address and I'll send you one of those spacers. And next time just dab a little rtv on it and it will stick in there and not move while you install the rail. Those spacers are a must. Also are your seals still good on the bottom of the injectors? A missing one or rotted one will allow a leak to come about.

Jordan

NY 95 TSI AWD · Nov 29, 2009

As previously stated, reinstall the rail with the spacers and get these if yours haven't already been replaced http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17787&cat=756&page=1&veh=1G%20DSM. The lower injector seals should be rubber and not feel like hard plastic.

nijap · Nov 29, 2009

Bet thats the last time you do that. Do the bolt extractor thing and use the spacers, they were there for a reason.

shadow_FIX · Nov 29, 2009

nijap said:
Bet thats the last time you do that. Do the bolt extractor thing and use the spacers, they were there for a reason.

Yep, that is the last time I will do that! I just wouldn't have thought they'd serve such a vital function...I got ahead of myself and cause a minor annoyance. I was feeling rushed because my girlfriend had had dinner ready and everything, but she came out and actually helped me, got her hands dirty, etc. And she wants to let everyone know that she was right about me needing those black spacers

Lol I'm an ultra-n00b, flame if desired.

Gray91GSX · Nov 29, 2009

shadow_FIX said:
Yep, that is the last time I will do that! I just wouldn't have thought they'd serve such a vital function...I got ahead of myself and cause a minor annoyance. I was feeling rushed because my girlfriend had had dinner ready and everything, but she came out and actually helped me, got her hands dirty, etc. And she wants to let everyone know that she was right about me needing those black spacers

I love a girl that will help work on a car. Not know that knows more than me but one that helps. Why do you think I finally hopped on the wagon and got engaged? My fiancee helps me work on my cars all the time and loves learning from me.

goalie40 · Nov 29, 2009

Nice My chick did my rear camber on one of my dsm's

I still remember the day she said, "Do you think it would be weird if I had a Turbo Eclipse too." I looked at her and said will you marry me LOL.

As it is the GST spyder I just got is hers, after I find a Nice GSX or VR4. Keep this one my friend.

ELund · Nov 30, 2009

I have a quick question, I only have a free membership so I can't post new threads but I need to fix my car within the next few days, this is an emergency so I apologize for putting this here. I was driving my car to school and the battery light came on (the belt has been squeaking for a while so I figured it was the alternator) I drove it 12 miles to school and shut it off. When I came out during break and tried to start it I checked battery voltage with my DVOM, and it read 12.51v then I tried to start it and the start didn't even try to engage but all the accessories come on, has anyone ever had this happen before? Also its a 97 Eagle Talon ESi Auto thew only other problems are the squeaking blet and the muffler fell off, if that makes any difference, any help would be greatly appreciated, again sorry for posting this here but this is my only option left. I promise as soon as I get a job Ill try to upgrade my membership.

frankozz · Nov 30, 2009

Replace your alternator.

shadow_FIX · Nov 30, 2009

ELund said:
I have a quick question, I only have a free membership so I can't post new threads but I need to fix my car within the next few days, this is an emergency so I apologize for putting this here. I was driving my car to school and the battery light came on (the belt has been squeaking for a while so I figured it was the alternator) I drove it 12 miles to school and shut it off. When I came out during break and tried to start it I checked battery voltage with my DVOM, and it read 12.51v then I tried to start it and the start didn't even try to engage but all the accessories come on, has anyone ever had this happen before? Also its a 97 Eagle Talon ESi Auto thew only other problems are the squeaking blet and the muffler fell off, if that makes any difference, any help would be greatly appreciated, again sorry for posting this here but this is my only option left. I promise as soon as I get a job Ill try to upgrade my membership.

You don't need to upgrade your membership to post new threads...

HOT97ECLIPSEGSX · Nov 30, 2009

Bobby, get some new fuel rail spacers, new bolts, and injector o-ring seals and you'll be good to go. If you need a helping hand, just call me and I'll head on over to help wrench! :tree:

ELund said:
I have a quick question, I only have a free membership so I can't post new threads but I need to fix my car within the next few days, this is an emergency so I apologize for putting this here. I was driving my car to school and the battery light came on (the belt has been squeaking for a while so I figured it was the alternator) I drove it 12 miles to school and shut it off. When I came out during break and tried to start it I checked battery voltage with my DVOM, and it read 12.51v then I tried to start it and the start didn't even try to engage but all the accessories come on, has anyone ever had this happen before? Also its a 97 Eagle Talon ESi Auto thew only other problems are the squeaking blet and the muffler fell off, if that makes any difference, any help would be greatly appreciated, again sorry for posting this here but this is my only option left. I promise as soon as I get a job Ill try to upgrade my membership.

Sounds like you need to tighten your accessory belts. Check your fuses as well. Your car will still run even though your alternator may be dead. It'll only run until your battery is out of juice. Sounds like you may need to replace your alternator.

By the way...you do have the ability to make your own threads without the need of upgrading your membership.

shadow_FIX · Nov 30, 2009

Lol your text this morning was funny

I got new bolts, MacGSX was nice enough to send me another spacer, and I got an easy-out to remove the two I fubar'ed. Injector o-rings were still in great shape so I don't really see a reason to replace what's not broken.

Any tips for having a bit more space to work in that area for next time? I unbolted the fuel rail (obviously, lol) but I couldn't seem to get it to move out of the way enough to work comfortably in that area when I was replacing the coil pack.

Red1991TSI · Nov 30, 2009

Remove the vacuum line from the FPR and lift the rail clear. I just changed my lower seals and the entire fuel rail would swing up and out of the way once the injector connectors were removed.

MacGSX · Nov 30, 2009

Are the lower seals ok? When you guys talk about the o rings I think of the small rings on the top of the injector. How do the seals look that sit in the head where the bottom of the injector meets the head?

Jordan

shadow_FIX · Nov 30, 2009

I was referring to the seals that meet with the bottom of the injectors.

And thanks Red, that helps a lot.

Replaced coil pack, now there's a massive leak

shadow_FIX

Gray91GSX

Red1991TSI

Gray91GSX

MacGSX

NY 95 TSI AWD

nijap

shadow_FIX

Gray91GSX

goalie40

ELund

frankozz

shadow_FIX

HOT97ECLIPSEGSX

shadow_FIX

Red1991TSI

MacGSX

shadow_FIX

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