My 1g is having problems starting in the colder temps and once it warms up in the day, it starts up. I looked it up on alldatadiy.com and one of the technical service bulletins said that there is an ECU Modulator kit #MD 175156 to add onto the ECU, which just splices into the ECU wiring harness. It comes with the connector harness to connect all the wires together, along with the modulator itself. I tried contacting the dealer to get the part, they no longer make it. Does anyone know where to get the modulator kit for my car? I tried the DSM graveyard, no luck.
Impossible to start, need ECU modulator kit
JZ1121
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My 1g is having problems starting in the colder temps and once it warms up in the day, it starts up. I looked it up on alldatadiy.com and one of the technical service bulletins said that there is an ECU Modulator kit #MD 175156 to add onto the ECU, which just splices into the ECU wiring harness. It comes with the connector harness to connect all the wires together, along with the modulator itself. I tried contacting the dealer to get the part, they no longer make it. Does anyone know where to get the modulator kit for my car? I tried the DSM graveyard, no luck.
Hard to start hot/cold
I know I had made a post on this before, but the suggestions into other threads didn't do a thing for me. I had done basically alot to this car, the car has been basically rebuilt. I had replaced alot of components in the car: a new ECU, new ignition system, new fuel system, just about everything. This car has to run, I haven't been able to get it started properly. This has been an ongoing problem throughout the summer, and has become worse as the temperature drops. It always took a lot of time to get started. The other threads that were close to this problem, already suggested solutions that I had already done before hand. The answer that mitsubishi gave in the TSBs was that there was a Modulator Kit, an add-on kit to the ECU, and I tried looking for that, and its non-existant. Does anyone have an idea on fixing this?
I know I had made a post on this before, but the suggestions into other threads didn't do a thing for me. I had done basically alot to this car, the car has been basically rebuilt. I had replaced alot of components in the car: a new ECU, new ignition system, new fuel system, just about everything. This car has to run, I haven't been able to get it started properly. This has been an ongoing problem throughout the summer, and has become worse as the temperature drops. It always took a lot of time to get started. The other threads that were close to this problem, already suggested solutions that I had already done before hand. The answer that mitsubishi gave in the TSBs was that there was a Modulator Kit, an add-on kit to the ECU, and I tried looking for that, and its non-existant. Does anyone have an idea on fixing this?
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Re: Hard to start hot/cold
I don't know everything you tried in previous threads, or advice that was given to you. Sounds really general, and about 100 different things come to mind.
Any reason you just didn't post on your old thread? I can't find it.
I don't know everything you tried in previous threads, or advice that was given to you. Sounds really general, and about 100 different things come to mind.
Any reason you just didn't post on your old thread? I can't find it.
Re: Hard to start hot/cold
well I was looking to see if anyone knew if there was a modulator kit around, since I thought that may be the remedy for my car. I got turned around by the administrator to look elsewhere. I know there is spark, and there is fuel, but I don't know what could make it work in syc. The air flow sensor has been replaced, all of the ignition system has been replaced with exception to the wiring harness. The fuel system is brand new, with the exception to the fuel pump, which isn't needed to be replaced because I know the fuel works well; the emissions read high in HC, due to the car running rich.
well I was looking to see if anyone knew if there was a modulator kit around, since I thought that may be the remedy for my car. I got turned around by the administrator to look elsewhere. I know there is spark, and there is fuel, but I don't know what could make it work in syc. The air flow sensor has been replaced, all of the ignition system has been replaced with exception to the wiring harness. The fuel system is brand new, with the exception to the fuel pump, which isn't needed to be replaced because I know the fuel works well; the emissions read high in HC, due to the car running rich.
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716 Posts
Re: Hard to start hot/cold
Running rich can be caused by a couple factors. But the change in temperature and the car running worse in cold conditions throws a red flag on one part in particular. The MAF or air flow sensor, whatever you want to call it probably isn't sending an accurate relay signal to your ECU. When you replaced it, did you purchase a new or used part? You need to get that tested.
As for Modulator Kits? I don't really hear anyone using that term a lot, and I think that may have been a reference to componets of your fuel system. Fuel Filter, pressure regulator, pump, etc... If you are postive fuel is going through your return line, then most likely your fuel system is working correctly. I am going to assume your car is mostly factory parts, and you were not trying to upgrade componets of your fuel system, like bigger injectors. That will also cause you to run rich, and for your car to not run properly.
So I think you see what I mean, I can think of a lot of things that are causing the symptoms of your problems, but until you fix one thing at a time, and you're sure you have fixed it correctly the first time. I will recommend that you go to a mechanic who can fix the car for you.
Running rich can be caused by a couple factors. But the change in temperature and the car running worse in cold conditions throws a red flag on one part in particular. The MAF or air flow sensor, whatever you want to call it probably isn't sending an accurate relay signal to your ECU. When you replaced it, did you purchase a new or used part? You need to get that tested.
As for Modulator Kits? I don't really hear anyone using that term a lot, and I think that may have been a reference to componets of your fuel system. Fuel Filter, pressure regulator, pump, etc... If you are postive fuel is going through your return line, then most likely your fuel system is working correctly. I am going to assume your car is mostly factory parts, and you were not trying to upgrade componets of your fuel system, like bigger injectors. That will also cause you to run rich, and for your car to not run properly.
So I think you see what I mean, I can think of a lot of things that are causing the symptoms of your problems, but until you fix one thing at a time, and you're sure you have fixed it correctly the first time. I will recommend that you go to a mechanic who can fix the car for you.
Re: Hard to start hot/cold
well I already did put in a new coolant temp sensor. No difference. The MAF was the first place I looked, and i bought a brand new one, no difference. The car is basically been rebuilt by my own hands, since no one would ever accept it, due to when all they do is look at the year, and the mileage (168k).
well I already did put in a new coolant temp sensor. No difference. The MAF was the first place I looked, and i bought a brand new one, no difference. The car is basically been rebuilt by my own hands, since no one would ever accept it, due to when all they do is look at the year, and the mileage (168k).
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Re: Hard to start hot/cold
I noticed you said you have spark and fuel...how far down your fuel system do you have fuel? In other words, have you checked your injectors with an ohmeter to see if you're getting power to them? I'm having a similar no-start issue to where my car is turning over but not firing up...I have spark, but I'm not getting fuel past my injectors. I'm getting it to the rail, so that rules a lot of things out. I pulled my ecu and noticed one of my caps leaking onto the board, but you said you changed your ecu so that would probably rule that out. Keep us posted.
I noticed you said you have spark and fuel...how far down your fuel system do you have fuel? In other words, have you checked your injectors with an ohmeter to see if you're getting power to them? I'm having a similar no-start issue to where my car is turning over but not firing up...I have spark, but I'm not getting fuel past my injectors. I'm getting it to the rail, so that rules a lot of things out. I pulled my ecu and noticed one of my caps leaking onto the board, but you said you changed your ecu so that would probably rule that out. Keep us posted.
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259 Posts
Re: Hard to start hot/cold
I had a hard start problem and i had replaced my CTS also, but i noticed later that the spades that go in the plug from the wires "appeared" to be plugging in but one side was too far back in the rubber plug so it may just be a connection issue as well. I just plain cut all the rubber around the plug off and clipped the connectors back to where they should be and super glued them in there. Starts like a dream. Also how is the timing looking?
I had a hard start problem and i had replaced my CTS also, but i noticed later that the spades that go in the plug from the wires "appeared" to be plugging in but one side was too far back in the rubber plug so it may just be a connection issue as well. I just plain cut all the rubber around the plug off and clipped the connectors back to where they should be and super glued them in there. Starts like a dream. Also how is the timing looking?
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20,857 Posts
Please don't restart a new thread for the same issue!
Threads merged for consistency of information for your issue.
It could be as simple as fuel filter, weak fuel pump, or bad fuel pressure regulator. Have you removed the FPR solenoid on the firewall which has a vacuum line to it?
EDIT: Bad CTS wiring or sensor can cause this too.
Threads merged for consistency of information for your issue.
It could be as simple as fuel filter, weak fuel pump, or bad fuel pressure regulator. Have you removed the FPR solenoid on the firewall which has a vacuum line to it?
EDIT: Bad CTS wiring or sensor can cause this too.
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20,857 Posts
Rats!
Have you check the coolant temp sensor and the wiring harness side?
Have you check the coolant temp sensor and the wiring harness side?
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You need to start looking into electronics if you're fuel system itself is good to go...it can be your resistor pack. Since you're getting fuel up to your rail that would rule out a bad CAS. Just a thought. I'm thinking that could be what's wrong with my 1g...but I do know for certain my ECU has leaky caps, again...probably not your problem seeing as you have a new ECU.
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That's good...although looks are deceiving. I thought my ecu looked pristine till I opened it up and saw electrolytic acid all around my lower cap. Check that resistor pack...if that's FUBAR you will most likely not getting any fuel past your injector since that has a lot to do with them pulsing. If you can get your hands on a stethoscope with a rod on it you'd be able to hear them clicking. Also, have you pulled your plugs to see if you're getting fuel into your cylinders? Again, you never actually said anything about your fuel other than you're getting it to the rail. That's another tell-tale sign of resistor pack issues. Keep us updated I'd love to see the bottom of this gotten to. 
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Any updates??? Is you're car running? Did you give up and sell it? Anyone? Anyone?:dunno:
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Well, I know this isn't my thread but I am glad to say that I got my eprom in the mail from Jeff at dsmchips...and my car fired right up without missing a lick...only to my dismay there sat my front right tire, flat...rim on the ground
Good luck with your diagnosis. Let's get this wrapped up so we can mark this resolved.
Good luck with your diagnosis. Let's get this wrapped up so we can mark this resolved.
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