Hello guys and gals of DSMtalk it is your neighborhood psychopath slamming upon your front door holding out an empty cup and asking "If perhaps you could empart me with some of your delicious knowledge and expert advice?" For long as it been since I have felt my head become one with my headrest and am now left with a whistling engine bay and a stock boost gauge who believes that a law dictates it not raising past the zero point. The voices tell me that perhaps the turbo as spooled the big one and other voices believe that an engine fairy with a slide whistle as taken up residence in my engine bay. So on this late night I ask of you lords and ladys of DSM greatness what path will take me back to the feelings of pleasure that only can be found with boost or a willing partner.
Late Night Knock at the Door of DSMTalk
Psycho5150
61 - 80 of 139 Posts
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152 Posts
Ah my dear Sir Gray I have called in the mercenary forces of PB Blaster and have been left with a possibly broken hand. Alas the breaker bar was not only name for the added torque it adds to break a the hold of a parasitic bolt that refuse to release its host.
Subtitles: Typing with one hand is difficult.
Subtitles: Typing with one hand is difficult.
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1,722 Posts
You really shouldn't have issues getting bolts out for the turbo swap. I never had issues on my rusty pile. Even the guide stud on the T25 loosened up and came free with nothing more than vicegrips, and the downpipe nuts and bolt weren't any issue due to their size. And remember, this is a car I had to cut a control arm off of just to replace a ball joint. 
If you break one and part of it is exposed or can easily be exposed, break out the vicegrips. If you can't get to it, break out the drill and taps. Bolt extractors just cause more problems than they solve.
Note when using PB Blaster that it's not an instantaneous thing. I've found it works well two ways:
1) soak stuff over time, starting a few days before the job to ensure that it gets in there.
2) Use it with a MAPP torch. Heat the bolt and the area around the bolt with the torch, then quickly spray the bolt with the PB Blaster to cool if off and break the rust. Have water nearby though, shit's flammable.
If you break one and part of it is exposed or can easily be exposed, break out the vicegrips. If you can't get to it, break out the drill and taps. Bolt extractors just cause more problems than they solve.
Note when using PB Blaster that it's not an instantaneous thing. I've found it works well two ways:
1) soak stuff over time, starting a few days before the job to ensure that it gets in there.
2) Use it with a MAPP torch. Heat the bolt and the area around the bolt with the torch, then quickly spray the bolt with the PB Blaster to cool if off and break the rust. Have water nearby though, shit's flammable.
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152 Posts
I allowed the mercenary PB to do battle with each offending bolt yet only for over the course of a single night before calling in my own unique army. Perhaps this Sir MAPP would be someone to call forth in my time of need. Alas my lady would get quite the enjoyment out of Sir MAPP
Subtitles: Let sit over a night before trying and no dice. Maybe I should try the torch. My pyro of a wife would be happy
Subtitles: Let sit over a night before trying and no dice. Maybe I should try the torch. My pyro of a wife would be happy
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1,524 Posts
Being flammable is one issue. When you spray it on real hot parts it is going to stink to high heaven. I hope you don't have an attached garage. If you do you might want to open the door for a few min.
Subtitles; Thy shitith will stinkith.
Subtitles; Thy shitith will stinkith.
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152 Posts
All is well in the my land as the once grand 13g solider now lays before me away from the steed it once powered, went mad and nearly destroyed as well. I await the arrival of reinforcements to take back my steed and return her to her former glory. Broken and bloodied I maybe though all of those pains will be forgotten once my steed rises like a phoenix from its current state. Alas perhaps King Red will see fit to grant me the title of Sir now that the fallen 13g has been removed, though I believe it won't be until I resurrect my battle worn steed.
Subtitles: Bolts are off as well as the 13g, just awaiting the parts to come in to start up my TSi once more.
Subtitles: Bolts are off as well as the 13g, just awaiting the parts to come in to start up my TSi once more.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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6,465 Posts
Your wife sounds like a keeper, any woman that buys parts for a DSM is an instant winner. What boost do you plan on running the 16G at? 16Gs will creep to the moon and back, so you'll need bigger injectors, and a way to control those injectors. If you plan on running stock boost...well..you'll see how the 16G creeps.
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20,857 Posts
True. One must resurect thy steed before one can be called Sir. For what knight can thou be without a trusty steed? Alas, you have bled in battle and begin to understand the trials and tribulations of the holy DSM.
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152 Posts
The creeping boost does demand a sense worry from me, yet until I have seen the creeping gauge I am unable to truly know its perils. I plan on using the intelligence of another manual steed as with 450cc and 190 walbro to aid me in defeating the creep. Are there other precautions that I should take to keep the grand 16g from creeping death upon me?Your wife sounds like a keeper, any woman that buys parts for a DSM is an instant winner. What boost do you plan on running the 16G at? 16Gs will creep to the moon and back, so you'll need bigger injectors, and a way to control those injectors. If you plan on running stock boost...well..you'll see how the 16G creeps.
Oh yes my fair lady is quite the ideal women to be by my side as I take every step closer towards my goals. Alas she has also graced me with a plate filled with tacos, that could only be created with the tortillas she just finished making.
All whilst aiding me in my earlier plight against the demon in my steed. My fair lady thankfully knows how to care for a steed as well as I and is an excellent aide as her hands while soft and beautiful are not unknown to the filth that the steed leaves on any who have sought to aid it. I shall marched forth and as I tame the demon residing in my steed and bring her back from the undiscovered country I will continue forth knowing that the dawn is fast approaching to end my night of tribulation. I will then have earned the title of "Sir".
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20,857 Posts
Squire Ye shall make knight once thy steed is freed and you're back in the saddle again.
Thy fair lady seems awesome and you are a luckier man for it.
Thy fair lady seems awesome and you are a luckier man for it.
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1,558 Posts
We all must battle the war of the DSMs. One may never know when war shall be declared. We enlist ourselves from the Land of DSMTalk to aid in your battles. I revived my steed from a dead water pump and timing belt when I bought it. Now you must revive your steed and join the masses in the Land of DSMTalk.
Alas, with boost creep, I cannot help much. Mine does it also but only from 8lbs to 10lbs since I am running stock boost until tuning.
Alas, with boost creep, I cannot help much. Mine does it also but only from 8lbs to 10lbs since I am running stock boost until tuning.
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152 Posts
The creeping boost is something I had not fully thought through. I will require the assisstance of one who has done battle with the creeping boost and lived to tell the tale.
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1,558 Posts
I have heard a bigger elbow and downpipe should help with it. Its not much of a problem, nothing that should sway you from doing it. Mine is a S16g and like I said, running 8 lbs, it will creep a bit to 10lbs. Nothing thats going to hurt your engine. As soon as my friend brings me the money for the camaro that I sold him I will be ordering a better elbow and downpipe as mine is only stock.
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152 Posts
So I understand Sir Gray that the elbow is the O2 housing and that the since my down pipe is currently at 3 inches with a 2.5 inch neck to help allow the flange to properly join with the turbo, or so they said, that perhaps a die grinder and some shades would aid me greatly in reducing the creeping boost once the O2 housing and I begin to get to know each other. If that is the case then per chance I will attempt a mild porting of the O2 housing as I am able to call a brother-in-arms and acquire a die grinder.
I am a slight bit interested to know that should I place the grand 16g in my steed how am I to know what boost it will be giving me? I understand that I must gather a manual boost controller to elevate the pounds per square inches of force, but I am unsure to see how high it runs right out of the pervebial box.
My ability to wax on eloquently is becoming more hampered as the night wears on so I fear I must be perfectly blunt.
Stock m/t internals + 16g + 3in downpipe back exhaust = How much psi at stock? What kind of problems to watch for? How high can it safely be turned?
I am a slight bit interested to know that should I place the grand 16g in my steed how am I to know what boost it will be giving me? I understand that I must gather a manual boost controller to elevate the pounds per square inches of force, but I am unsure to see how high it runs right out of the pervebial box.
My ability to wax on eloquently is becoming more hampered as the night wears on so I fear I must be perfectly blunt.
Stock m/t internals + 16g + 3in downpipe back exhaust = How much psi at stock? What kind of problems to watch for? How high can it safely be turned?
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168 Posts
Thou hath the mightiest of internals from the stock liniage if thou hast tamed a noble six bolt heart for thy most rightious of steeds. In saying this thy meaning i am imparting unto thee is as long as thou hast no large amounts of creepeth of the beast known as boost thy noble heart will stay in one piece. For even thy mighty 4G63 is no match for running lean. I sir NTDeamon alas can confirm this as truth as my own steed is battle worn after running an 8.1 ratio of thy air to most unworthy fuel. In short my comrade I am saying you needeth do nothing more than to aquire a boost gauge to see how much pounds of square inches of power thy 16g is producing and to keep thy boost at a reasonable level till a tuning device is available to be comanded by thee. Due these things and thy shalt triumph over thee most unholy deamon known as detonation.
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190 Posts
Bahahaha this tread just made my day!
Wastegate actuator cans on the 16G's are supposed to be 8PSi from the factory.. that said I've seen a few, like my old B16G, that ran a bit higher. Mine sat at 10PSi. One other I know ran at 12 Psi.
Either way, with no boost controller the 450's should be sufficient - but you should look into at least the fuel pump rewire before trying to get more power. Also, be aware, with a 16G running boost that low, it'll feel like a whole differnt car. You'll take longer to get into boos,t so it'll feel a touch sluggish at first, then the power will come on more smoothly because the bigger turbo spools more slowly than you're used to. Once it DOES spool though, the pull will be much more satisfying even at 8PSi. Once you get the parts to turn the wick up to a nice safe and happy 15 PSi, (fuel tuning solution of some sort is helpful and most likely slighty bigger injectors) it'll be like prom night all over again.
For reference - my 98 TSi with a ported B16G ran at 18 PSi for a couple of years on stock 450's without signifigant problems, and managed 22 PSi on yellow tops (EVO III 510's) without problems. I di have issues with the 450's when towing though, it was hard to keep the EGT's low on big hills until I put in the 510's.
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