Well guys, my headgasket popped but I am actually not sad. Its a 91 4g63. Pulled the head off today and damn was there alot of water in my cylinders. Only cylinder 2&3. I looked at my engine without a head there for a bit and said, well too boring to change a headgasket and call it a day so I am going to rebuild it. I will be using 2g pistons. ACL rod and main bearings. NPR piston rings. Reusing my stock rods. All new gaskets throughout the engine. Almost new everything. I put a new timing set and water pump on when I got the car and I have only driven it three times... I hate previous owners especially when the car has been sitting for two years. Anyways, cleaned up and painted block, cleaned engine bay, abs removal, and battery relocation. I will be using OEM 6-bolt headbolts and MLS headgasket. Balance shafts will be removed. I will be running my 16g turbo, 550 injectors, maft w/ 3.5in GM MAF, synapse bov, and a same side intercooler. Anything I am missing please chime in. Pictures will be coming soon. I go to school full time but I will be doing this as quickly as possible. Also waiting on a huge check to come in so I can order my parts. I will have to tear down the bottom end before I order anything just so I know what I am getting into.
Pop goes my headgasket and I'm bored
Gray91GSX
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Glad I decided to rebuild, the middle main cap bearing was about to spin. My crank is only going to need polished hopefully. Pictures up soon, and yeah, I may just do that wiring harness setup, sounds like an easy way to pull the engine again.
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When I pulled my oil pan I found tons of water, oil, and metal chunks.... Not sure from where... I will know after I hot tank it. On to the pics.
Front of the engine.
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On the stand
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This is what fell out of my oil pan...
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Bottom end
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Me pulling the pistons
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Me again
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Pulling the main caps
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Front of the engine.
On the stand
This is what fell out of my oil pan...
Bottom end
Me pulling the pistons
Me again
Pulling the main caps
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1,558 Posts
I wouldn't doubt that black crap on my head is soot... I got the car this way. Everything will be replaced and done right. May go 2.4 with the G4CS block and crank and still use 2g pistons and my rods but that is only if my crank is screwed..
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More pictures for today. Been sitting in the hot tank for about 6 hours and nope, not clean enough, so back in it goes. Hone coming tomorrow hopefully. Then I will have the crank and head checked out by the machine shop hopefully tomorrow or saturday. If they have to turn my crank then I will just get a 2.4 from a Sonata for the block and crank.
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See people, not clean enough for my tastes so back in it went.
See people, not clean enough for my tastes so back in it went.
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1,558 Posts
Sorry everyone, I lost power cause a tree line ripped out the main line to my house and I haven't been able to leave home cause it was in my driveway due to the recent snow storm but here are some pictures of my painted manifold. Nothing better to do when your block is still at school in the hot tank. I painted my turbo manifold red but for some reason it looks pink in the pictures. Keep in mind, this is just the first coat with what little paint I did have to test the color out and stuff and yes I am keeping it red. Exhaust side of the turbo will be black along with my o2 housing.
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It was painted with high heat red from duplicolor. Manifold was cleaned with purple power and a wire brush. It should hold up for at least a year. The manifold is a rewelded pacesetter. No problems with this manifold yet besides I needed to reweld it. Oh and yes that was soot on my head, apparently the nuts backed out a bit cause they were very loose. I may go stainless studs and nuts unless yall suggest something better or cheaper that works great.
It was painted with high heat red from duplicolor. Manifold was cleaned with purple power and a wire brush. It should hold up for at least a year. The manifold is a rewelded pacesetter. No problems with this manifold yet besides I needed to reweld it. Oh and yes that was soot on my head, apparently the nuts backed out a bit cause they were very loose. I may go stainless studs and nuts unless yall suggest something better or cheaper that works great.
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680 Posts
That paint won't last 10 min.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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6,465 Posts
You'd be surprised. I painted my turbine housing on the 14B for shits 'n' giggles, and it lasted for close to two years without burning off or fading(until I changed turbo's).
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You will have a nice buzz also
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I like this guy's enthusiasm on doing things right. You already have the head off...and for as cheap as they are to build you may as well while youre doing the hg job. btw you'd be better off getting a 4g64 crank out of a spyder and a 162mm rod with some forged pistons. find a 2g head for cheap if you can because the intake and exhaust ports are crazy bigger than 1g's. oh and im hoping youre putting polyurethane motor mounts in since youre doing everything right
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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6,465 Posts
He really doesn't have time or money to spend on a stroker kit, and he doesn't have the funds necessary for everything you need to do to swap out his 1G head for a 2G head. Also, the intake ports on a 1G head are bigger, but the overall flow, and port design of the 2G head makes it better/higher flowing. But, chances are you'll never get to the point where a ported 1G head will seriously hinder your performance.I like this guy's enthusiasm on doing things right. You already have the head off...and for as cheap as they are to build you may as well while youre doing the hg job. btw you'd be better off getting a 4g64 crank out of a spyder and a 162mm rod with some forged pistons. find a 2g head for cheap if you can because the intake and exhaust ports are crazy bigger than 1g's. oh and im hoping youre putting polyurethane motor mounts in since youre doing everything right
Not to mention his car is a 6 bolt, and trying to put a 7 bolt 4G64 crank out of a spyder into his 6-bolt doesn't make a bit of sense. Hence the reason he said G4CS. Their basically hyundai's version of a 6-bolt 4G64. In which case it would be easier just to get the entire G4CS block, and put his 1G head on it. It'd not only be easier, but it would have more displacement then a stroked 4G63, and there is no chance of ovaling the cylinders later on(A common problem with the stroker motors).
I agree with the poly mounts though, but I don't think he wants that much vibration because he'll be deleting his balance shafts. Also, do poly mounts on an Auto really make that much of a different compared to the 5-speed guys? I'm not sure, but I can't imagine it'd make a terrible difference.
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^^ You have no clue what your talking about.I like this guy's enthusiasm on doing things right. You already have the head off...and for as cheap as they are to build you may as well while youre doing the hg job. btw you'd be better off getting a 4g64 crank out of a spyder and a 162mm rod with some forged pistons. find a 2g head for cheap if you can because the intake and exhaust ports are crazy bigger than 1g's. oh and im hoping youre putting polyurethane motor mounts in since youre doing everything right
EDIT: Cracked beat me to it.
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1,558 Posts
Well, just got back from the machine shop. He can't o-ring the block like I wanted and just decking the head and block is going to cost me 200 dollars. He also cannot bore out my piston pin holes for the bigger pistons, so I have to do some research to find a good place locally... I may just buy a short block to get my car running and build it later but I'm not sure yet. Going to look around for one today also...
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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6,465 Posts
Wow, to hell with that. Do some calling around and I guarantee you'll find a better price, and a more capable machine shop, you just might have to go out of your way. How can you even call your place a machine shop if you can't bore a hole from 21mm to 22mm??
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