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how to tell the difference between 1g/2g

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#21 ·
I've had a 6bolt in my car since 2001. I was one of the first to do it and DD it. It's still the same block that's in it currently.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
enasnITSi said:
Yes thats correct. Any manifold for a 4g63 and a 2g downpipe. Not sure why this is so confusing.
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Okay I have a good understanding on how to figure out what will work with my vehicle. Heres one for you though. The o2 housing! It seems that the only 3" ones I can find (because I have a 3" exhaust) are eliminator kits. Can I not just find a regular 3" o2 housing without a dump-pipe? or is there some sort of adapter I will have to get to get the 2.5" to bolt on to the 3" exhaust?
 
#25 · (Edited)
What is not OEM on the car? The 880cc injectors, link, and the cat back, and that's it? Or do you have a larger turbo? Which is it if different?

The difference in the downpipe/exhaust is generation and engine specific. If you have a 1g FWD, get a 1g FWD downpipe and cat back, if you have a 2g AWD, get that downpipe/cat back. It matters because of the design of the car itself, and the bends and directions the exhaust has to be routed under the car. A 1g AWD exhaust will not fit on any other model/trim, or any other mixture.

Except for customs, o2 elim, or v band, all o2 housings you'll be able to get ahold of are probably mitsu flanged, and are 2.5" through and outlet. Almost all downpipes you'll find are 2.5" inlet and will bolt up to stock o2 housings, and onto most aftermarket o2 housings. Some mixtures of the Evo3 o2 housing and downpipes are iffy, such as the Evo3 o2/Megan Racing downpipe for the 2g FWD. The slots don't line up right, and the exit angle throws the exhaust out of whack, though with a little time and aggressive maneuvering, you can make it work (I did, but hated it and got rid of the o2 housing in the end). You say you have a 3" exhaust, but that doesn't mean it's 3" at the downpipe inlet. If you have pretty much any downpipe you can buy online, and it's not v band, it should bolt up to your OEM or OEM-like aftermarket o2 housing.

So, here's the deal:

-Manifolds, as long as they are mitsu flanged, will work. They aren't generation specific, so as long as you stick with mitsu (not T3/T4) it will work.
-Any o2 housing for a DSM, be it 1g, 2g, Evo, Punishment Racing, or other brand (unless you're going vband).
-The right downpipe and cat-back for the car it is going on (specifically for that generation and engine). If it is a 2g FWD 4g63, then it needs a 2g FWD 4g63 downpipe and cat back exhaust.
-External wastegate will be dependent on the setup. There are manifold wastegates, o2 housing gates (sometimes the same gates), there are vband turbo setups, yadda yadda, pick the correct one for the setup you're going for. Size matters.
-Get a better tune on Link. There are side effects to running too rich. Do you have a Wideband?

I'm half asleep, someone check that over for me.
 
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#26 ·
Egh, missed the edit.

In my above post, where I said the downpipe/exhaust is generation and engine specific, I meant the generation, drive train, and the engine part was in regards to the 420a engine. If you have a 420a engine (which you don't), most of this is out the window anyway. So, as long as your car was factory turboed, the downpipe and exhaust is generation/drive train specific (1g/2g, FWD/AWD).
 
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#27 ·
SLEEPS said:
Things like radiators, fans, and parts bolting to body are 2g specific.
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With a little persuasion you can use a 2g radiator. Need new hoses though. Fans can be wired in but I don't know you'd wanna do that.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Esky said:
Egh, missed the edit.

In my above post, where I said the downpipe/exhaust is generation and engine specific, I meant the generation, drive train, and the engine part was in regards to the 420a engine. If you have a 420a engine (which you don't), most of this is out the window anyway. So, as long as your car was factory turboed, the downpipe and exhaust is generation/drive train specific (1g/2g, FWD/AWD).
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The car has a 16g turbo and right now a evo manifold, stock downpipe and o2 housing leading to a 3" exhaust. I wasn't aware that the inlet is 2.5" though, that makes more sence. The entire engine has pretty much been rebuilt from the ground up. Its a 1g engine in a 2G AWD. I think I have a good handle on it but when I upgrade I'll probably get a new 02 sensor as mine looks pretty trashy. As for wideband I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this (sorry). If you mean a AFR gauge then yes I do but I'm not sure how that plays into the matter at hand?
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
19GSX97 said:
Do you have a good wideband? It will actually tell you a number not just lean rich. For example, the AEM wideband is a pretty good one.
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I think I do have a wideband if that is a gauge that reads my AFR...... It sits around 14.8 usually which i'm told is pretty rich, but in my case I hear its better to run richer than leaner.
 
#32 ·
A wideband will tell you a lot about what your engine is doing. Idle AFRs should float around 14.7. Cruising AFRs will be about the same. Under load, you should see more rich conditions (13s,12s, 11s), under deceleration you will inevitably see lean (16s or more).

14.8 is almost smack on stoich, which is not rich. Anything above 14.7 is starting to go lean (albeit, not always dangerous). But, if you are on the gas, boosting, and see the AFRs swinging higher than 14.7 (15s, 16s), be careful, because that can mean a dead engine.

Yes, it is typically better to be rich, not lean, though certain conditions allow lean, or even force lean, such as deceleration. If you are too rich, you can wash your cylinder walls and that can cause problems too, so you have to manage your tune, which is why I brought up the wideband and referenced your tune.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Esky said:
A wideband will tell you a lot about what your engine is doing. Idle AFRs should float around 14.7. Cruising AFRs will be about the same. Under load, you should see more rich conditions (13s,12s, 11s), under deceleration you will inevitably see lean (16s or more).

14.8 is almost smack on stoich, which is not rich. Anything above 14.7 is starting to go lean (albeit, not always dangerous). But, if you are on the gas, boosting, and see the AFRs swinging higher than 14.7 (15s, 16s), be careful, because that can mean a dead engine.

Yes, it is typically better to be rich, not lean, though certain conditions allow lean, or even force lean, such as deceleration. If you are too rich, you can wash your cylinder walls and that can cause problems too, so you have to manage your tune, which is why I brought up the wideband and referenced your tune.
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Okay so I'm pretty much on par with a generic AFR, thanks. When I accelerate it does in fact drop and vice versa when slowing down. Nice to know something is working nicely haha. After I figure out what parts fit, what parts I want and after I get them installed by someone other than myself ( like it was a question) I plan on getting a thorough tune from a guy on base. I'd ask him all these questions and make him hate HIS life instead of yours but hes in Haiti right now.
 
#34 ·
Oh it's no problem asking questions, no hate here :) That's what the purpose of the forum is, to help out. And thank you for your service!

And actually, now that I think about it, I think it is typical to have an idle AFR of higher than stoich, even into 15s. Mine idles between 14.8-15.2.
 
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
now If I could just get it to idle properly! The car wont start if I dont give it gas, and keep giving it gas for 2-3 mins after I start it. If I let go of the gas after that it bogs down and will idle at around 300rpm
 
#37 ·
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Esky said:
You'll probably want to do a leak test, and check your BISS (base idle set screw). If the o ring is old and corroded or simply not there anymore, you'll need to get a new one. A bad FIAV/ISC can cause that too.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/throttlebody.htm

BISS circled in purple.
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My throttle body is a bit of a frankenstein. I have a FIAV block off plate and no hoses for coolant to it. I was thinking about getting a new one installed with some coolant this time but either way I have a sneaking suspicion that my TB is the cause of my issues, I have to wait for the spring to really get rid of my issues so for now I'm just hoarding parts until then.
 
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