I've been searching and I have not seen the answer to this question. I Have a kenwood set up 1000w amp/1000w sub that I would Like to run in the 97 2g. I have a capacitor but wanting to eliminate space/weight is it necessary? I doubt it will ever be peaked, (that's the wife's car.) What do some of you guys think?
How much watts could I run w/o A capacitor?
Karnag3_0kc
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I've been searching and I have not seen the answer to this question. I Have a kenwood set up 1000w amp/1000w sub that I would Like to run in the 97 2g. I have a capacitor but wanting to eliminate space/weight is it necessary? I doubt it will ever be peaked, (that's the wife's car.) What do some of you guys think?
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Well I have ran many different size amps and i didn't use a capacitor but i got a friend that is running two 300 watt fosgate amp in a 95 saturn and a capacitor and we still get dimming head lights. That kenwood doesnt push as much so you should be fine with that small setup.
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I'm only asking because on my 83 2jz supra I had a pioneer 12" 1200W Sub and Dual 580 Watt sub and I blew 2 batteries, 2 alternators, and fusible links before We found I needed a capacitor. Probably because the electrical was so old in the car.
I ran a big 3 amp system in my sons 82 Supra and we had no problems at all...You might of had a wiring issue on that car. Caps only really help if you listen to rap and have that thing dancing all the time. If you listen to rock then it would hit like that and have the need to keep the power there all the time. but with that amp you'll be fine
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I would say you have no need for a cap. It is more likely you blew all that because of another issue and not because you didnt have a cap on it. I have had 2500 watts rms with no cap, stock alt. and a bigger battery, but still no cap.
Capacitors in reality are like a bandaid, they really dont do much good for an electrical system, if you run into needing capacitors you should be looking into a Batcap or Kinetik batteries, they are about the same price for most models, bigger ones more expensive, and they are batteries instead of caps, so its not like putting a bandaid on a weak system but just replacing your factory battery with one that can handle more.
Capacitors in reality are like a bandaid, they really dont do much good for an electrical system, if you run into needing capacitors you should be looking into a Batcap or Kinetik batteries, they are about the same price for most models, bigger ones more expensive, and they are batteries instead of caps, so its not like putting a bandaid on a weak system but just replacing your factory battery with one that can handle more.
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I'm not going to get rid of it. However I am more than likely not going to use it. If I decide to use a higher Setup in my srt ill probably throw it in. Thanks for the insight guys.
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Odd, I got everything installed today and guess what. After 10 mins Sub/Amp Fried my Year old battery. -_-
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A capacitor is always recommended for sub applications. Helps out alot too. And if you were getting lights dimming even with the capacitor, then your alternator was not charging both battery and capacitor fast enough.
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I Run two Amps: one Sony Xplod 2 CH for my 10" Sony Xplod sub and one 400W Precision Power 4400 Class Amp for my four Pioneer Corner Speakers. Head Unit is a 7in In Dash w/navi bluetooth, usb, sd, etc and it's 54x4. I Run this with the Aid of a remanufatured 75Amp Alternator from Autozone and an Optima red top 34/78 and the Monster Wire amp and wire kit. No factory wiring at all. I don't have any problems with my headlights as i would know because i use them as DRL's. So maybe you can get something out of that. Hopefully at least.
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Went to a Duralast Gold Deep Cell, (had a cheapo Energizer in it before) and It's Hitting clean Hard and no dimming lights. =)
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I had the same thing happen to me. After I opened the garage and got on the road for about an hour my cars electronics stated to dim and i noticed sh*t started to flicker. Then my SRS light came on and viola...My whole vic turned off, i lost power and everything.
I was surprised and didn't know what was going on. I waited for about twenty minutes (after going under the hook and doing problem solving) and it cranked right up. Twenty minutes passed and then it did that same thing over again.
So i finally got a jump, made it hope and searched on here.
Long story short i had blown my little stock 65am alternator.
Got a new one from Autozone, Got a new Optima redtop and it's been fine ever since.
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794 Posts
As stated above, its rms you really need to look at. Now its been 15yrs since my last science class but if I remember correctly, its like this: watts/volts=amps. Amps are what you need to be concerned with. If you're killing ANY battery, your alt simply isn't up to par for your needs, I don't care what anyone tells you. Its a fact. A cap isn't ALWAYS a bandaid. You can only push/upgrade an alt so far before it needs help (this is where a cap comes in). Do 90% of people need a cap? Hell no. Now, for ANYONE to give you the info you're looking for, we need more info on your amp. For example, my old Kenwood was a 9152D (d signifying class d) mono block. And its sounding to me as though some were gently down playing KW amps on their RMS power. Again, is it a mono block? The 9152D is 1800pk and 900rms at 1ohm. That's NOTHING to downplay. You said you changed your batt? Ok. If we don't get some specs from you, your alt is likely next. Did your new batt fix your problem you think? No. It didn't. Your audio system is simply using up your batts reserve amps. Understanding any of this?
I used to use capacitors in my audio setup because I thought they where needed. I was wrong. If your lights are dimming a capacitor is not going to fix that, but a new battery and alternator designed for high power audio/off-road lights will fix that. I'm running a JL 1000.1 amp and 1 digital design 3500 12 right now in my trailblazer, with a 175amp alternator and im still getting dimming lights. I'm upgrading to a 300amp alternator soon to fix the problem
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Like I said before, a Cap is a bandaid for a weak electrical system. It is not going to help anything and you will be running out and buying new batteries and alternators just as quick as if you didnt have one.
Right now I am putting in a Kicker kx2500.1 pushing a Kicker Solo X 12, and a Kicker kx650.4 pushing my components. Only thing I am upgrading is the factory battery with a Kinetik and adding a Kinetik in the back close to where the amps will be. There is really no need for Caps, especially when you have the charging system to handle it and the correct wiring for power and ground wires then you shouldnt have any issues.
Also at Willworkforparts, a Kinetik or Batcap are higher amperage batteries made for this kind of abuse. Your right that an alternator can only go so far but why on earth would you replace the alternator and keep a factory style battery in your car? If you replace it with a higher amperage battery like the kinetik's or batcaps, or whatever brand you choose, then thats skipping the need for a capacitor because its amperage capacity is so much higher.
Right now I am putting in a Kicker kx2500.1 pushing a Kicker Solo X 12, and a Kicker kx650.4 pushing my components. Only thing I am upgrading is the factory battery with a Kinetik and adding a Kinetik in the back close to where the amps will be. There is really no need for Caps, especially when you have the charging system to handle it and the correct wiring for power and ground wires then you shouldnt have any issues.
Also at Willworkforparts, a Kinetik or Batcap are higher amperage batteries made for this kind of abuse. Your right that an alternator can only go so far but why on earth would you replace the alternator and keep a factory style battery in your car? If you replace it with a higher amperage battery like the kinetik's or batcaps, or whatever brand you choose, then thats skipping the need for a capacitor because its amperage capacity is so much higher.
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Agreed. A lot has changed since I was heavy into car audio.For most us back in the day, it was try to beef up the alt, deep cycle batt, and after that, it was time to line up the caps. And I'm not talking about Walmart specials either. Hell, back then you had to buy them at custom audio shops. However, my main point was just to get that formula out for the OP so he would know exactly where his charging system needs to be for his application. And if I was off on the formula, someone please correct it. Like I said though, I'm pretty sure that's the right one.
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15 Posts
Capacitor is a waste of money, you don't need
one they just "look cool" even though that is still in debate but they are just a waste of money if your lights dim just buy a bigger battery.
one they just "look cool" even though that is still in debate but they are just a waste of money if your lights dim just buy a bigger battery.
I would get a better alternater.
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186 Posts
That's all you need! Capacitors are a big waste of money. :ugh: Trust me haha.
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