im running a 1990 1g stock everything pretty much bought a 3in gm maf and translator but ned a pipe to accomidate the new filter and all the ports coming off to run the waste gate and what not any suggestions
upgrading 1g to gm maf need intake pipe for stock turbo
mowel07
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The typos were a small problem. Its proper grammar here, meaning capital letters at the start of a sentence lol.
Anyways, I'm not sure on the year but get one that curves a bit basically looking like this. ---___ Thats the best I can say. I always just slapped a filter on the end of the turbo and called it a day.
Anyways, I'm not sure on the year but get one that curves a bit basically looking like this. ---___ Thats the best I can say. I always just slapped a filter on the end of the turbo and called it a day.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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The 88-91 Honda CRX Si intake pipe is the one you are looking for. Do not get the short RAM style, get the one thats long and bendy. You only have to cut about 6-8inches off of it to make it work.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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How come your changing to a gm maf? If you have all stock there is really no reason to. I was going to do it but I heard they aren't very good when it comes to changing weather. I wouldn't do it if I were you. That's why I chose to stay with the 2g maf. Although I will be going sd soon.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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He has a 1G. The 1G MAF sucks bawls. Plus I personally have no bad experiences with the GM MAF, and I am in Florida. The king of split second weather. I've been through super rainy, super humid, super dry, super hot, and kinda "medium" temps and the car runs the same. I guess it's the luck of the draw or if you have a good intake pipe and filter. :dunno:
Im changing to the gm maf because it seemed to be the more reliable choice when compared to the remaned 1g for like nearly $300. Turns out its going to be a lil more but i guess if it works its worth it. Iv got a complete motor in my garage that is in the process of being gone through and built, and this setup will swap to the other motor as well. So i have an intake piece that will not only work with my mostly factory set up and will also work with what i hope turns out to be a very non stock setup.
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2g MAS would be cheaper if your just looking for something more capable than the 1g MAS. Got mine for $50. Wish I had never spent all the money I did on my GM MAFT setup. Mine like Cracked worked fine in all weather, just a PITA to get the thing calibrated. Which you will have to do btw.
Yes except im not running blow through, its being run suck through (before the turbo) it the factory air box location. Will this create problems, is that not the way its meant to be run. Or does it matter. I honestly dont know how its meant to be just myself looking at the situations i have, i thought it would be easier to run it pre turbo.
it was my understanding when i purchased the translator it would be calibrated for a factory setup. If not oh well i guuess ill have something already for the next step. and ill just go with the 2g MAS
it was my understanding when i purchased the translator it would be calibrated for a factory setup. If not oh well i guuess ill have something already for the next step. and ill just go with the 2g MAS
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Well if you were to use ECULink, or DSMLink (older version of ECULink) you would see that the GM MAF translator gets you in the ball park, but the thing is crude by comparison. With everything zeroed out (supposed to look and act like stock) you would still have to make adjustments to the airflow table to get things to line up how they should.
Will it work the way your wanting to set it up? Yes it will, in fact pre turbo is better for the accuracy of the GM unit, or so I have "heard" (take that with some salt). But it still wont be perfect without well to be honest anything short of DSMLink. AFC's effect your timing table in a negative way since they lie to the computer about your airflow to get it to do what you want with fuel.
IMO if your working with a BONE STOCK car. And just looking to put a little more pep in it's step. Heres my suggestion, you'll get more with spending less money. 550cc evo injectors, 2G MAS and an AFC. I Hate AFC's and advocate a real tuning solution such as a burned chip for your mods, Link, EMS, self made tune via Ostrich or something etc. But if your not looking to spend much the AFC will do just fine with the above mentioned mods. You could likely buy all that used for the cost of a GM MAFT setup. And go a lot faster / gain more power vs just a GM MAFT change which really isn't going to do much except make it a little easier for your turbo to breath.
Will it work the way your wanting to set it up? Yes it will, in fact pre turbo is better for the accuracy of the GM unit, or so I have "heard" (take that with some salt). But it still wont be perfect without well to be honest anything short of DSMLink. AFC's effect your timing table in a negative way since they lie to the computer about your airflow to get it to do what you want with fuel.
IMO if your working with a BONE STOCK car. And just looking to put a little more pep in it's step. Heres my suggestion, you'll get more with spending less money. 550cc evo injectors, 2G MAS and an AFC. I Hate AFC's and advocate a real tuning solution such as a burned chip for your mods, Link, EMS, self made tune via Ostrich or something etc. But if your not looking to spend much the AFC will do just fine with the above mentioned mods. You could likely buy all that used for the cost of a GM MAFT setup. And go a lot faster / gain more power vs just a GM MAFT change which really isn't going to do much except make it a little easier for your turbo to breath.
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