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Migsubishi

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this before? Is it common. I wasn't launching or anything, just goosed it and drifted through an intersection. Next thing I know, all rev and no go... broken bolts was the end result.
 
My guess is the bolts had been coming loose for quite some time. When you accellerated, the flex plate and converter didn't spin at the same time (due to the loose bolts), and they had sheared because that little bit of play created enough momentum to cut through the bolts. You're probably not the first person this has happened to, and certainly not the last, but I'd guess it would have been about time to check on them anyhow. Good news is, when you put new ones in - you'll be able to make sure everything's all snug tight!
 
I would have to say that they broke one at a time over a period of months and you have been driving on one bolt for awhile now, they work themselves loose if you dont loctite them.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The car had only been on the road with the newley restalled converter for about a week, all bolts were tight and red loctited in. I know they were tight because I was just under the car putting my lower ic pipe on and I always look for anything out of place when I'm down there. Reason for ic pipe, is my mani cracked and I had it re welded then I reinstalled the turbo kit.

I just hope I can extract the broken bolts w/o needing to drop the trans :(
 
You can use factory new bolts from here;
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/nmd952169.htm

I used these bolts and cut them so the same amount of threads are sticking out..Run a nut on them BEFORE you cut them off to clean the threads...And yes you will need two packs of three to get four bolts.. Use locktite on threads and Torque to 53-55 ft.lbs.


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Discussion starter · #7 ·
You can use factory new bolts from here;
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/nmd952169.htm

I used these bolts and cut them so the same amount of threads are sticking out..Run a nut on them BEFORE you cut them off to clean the threads...And yes you will need two packs of three to get four bolts.. Use locktite on threads and Torque to 53-55 ft.lbs.


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Awesome, you da man.... I however will be ordering 3 packs. Since I have to yet again drop the trans I'm going to have a custom Kiggly style flex plate made to utilize all 8 bolt holes in a Precision Industries converter and retain the thickness of two plates in one.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I would probably go with safety wire and loctite.
That only works if they are backing out which mine were not. They straight sheared off like if I hit 800ft lbs of torque all of a sudden from a starting the car at 0 - rpm... lol

The tack weld idea is a good one, someone else on here does that too... If this happens again that will be my new avenue.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Hmm, okay thanks. I think I'm going to just go ahead and have 8-bolt double thick flex plates machined and use 8-arp's. This way I never have to go through this again, kiggley won't make one for a 7-bolt. I guess I will have one made, maybe 2 just incase someone else needs one.
 
Running duel 7 bolt flexplates is your best option..Part # MD760092..I paid $37.00 for mine from the dealer...I have never heard of this setup failing....
 
It would be best to actually make a sort of dowel pin setup next to the bolts that the plate can engage to up the load carrying capability of the bolts.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Running duel 7 bolt flexplates is your best option..Part # MD760092..I paid $37.00 for mine from the dealer...I have never heard of this setup failing....
I do run dual flex plates and they are still in excellent condition. I just need something that will help distribute the load across more contact points leaving less room for failure.
 
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