Has anyone done this before? Is it common. I wasn't launching or anything, just goosed it and drifted through an intersection. Next thing I know, all rev and no go... broken bolts was the end result.
Just snapped all 4 bolts between flex plate and converter
Migsubishi
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
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If you were running duel plates and still used the factory flexbolts, then that is why those bolts shreared..Those factory flexbolts only go into the converter about 4 of 5 threads.When you add another flexplate, those bolts only go in about 2 or 3 threads...
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663 Posts
So, i feel real dumb asking this, but I can take 2 stock flexplates, weld them together along the edges and run them with some ARP bolts?
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Please give me more credit as I do not run factory bolts my good man. I run the bolts that Precision sent me when I told them I was running two flex plates. We mic'd them out and made sure they went all the way down into the converter. Factory bolts are two short and would have ripped the threads out of my converter. I'm having to pull the trans and use an easy out kit or drill the left over studs out of the converter.
Not neccessary, by bolting them both to the crank with the right length bolts the plates will never move. Welding them is just wasting time and money. The only thing that makes sense to me out of all this is what Beans said, tach weld the bolts to the plates.
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Like said welding them is not necessary. It would probably cause it to crack anyway. But you can't just put 2 flex plates together. You also have to use 2 chime plates between engine and trans. With the one closes to the engine cut where the starter goes. This gives you proper clearance for the starter, and to prevent crank walk.
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Sorry spell check error "shim" was the word I was looking for.
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As it was previously said, factory bolts are to short.
I don't understand how factory bolts are too short, the stock setup uses two shims and the flex plate, and when you run two flex plates you just eliminate the two shims. The two shims are very close to being the same thickness of one flex plate. Thats how I ran my car all last season and had zero problems. Thats with about 400hp,400tq.
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They didn't measure up on my car, maybe I have the anomaly. Everything on my car is mic'd out for best fitment and I couldn't use the factory bolts. I'm also shooting for more than double your hp and a more decent amount of torque.
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beans is confused as to what bolts you're discussing. Don't mind his last comment.
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Maybe I should start another thread about flexplates and when they are needed.
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I run double flex plates and I had them welded together by drilling through one and filling the holes with weld, then grinding it flush again. I also used blue loctite when I installed it and it lasted almost 2 years before I heard a noise that turned out to be the bolts coming loose. I use the stock bolts as well, and have been told that 3 threads is as good as 20, it will all come down to the strength of the bolt after that. You need to add a second starter plate and cut one for the starter to sit in the right spot. I kept the other shims that go between the crank and the flex plates...at least one of them...can't remember now. Anyway, its good enough for the over 300 I put to the wheels.
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813 Posts
Found the cure to snapping those 4 bolts 
Custom cnc'd Automatic Flex plate, 3 times as strong as the factory and uses 8 mounting points instead of the 4. My answer to the kiggley flex plate for 7-bolts... Yes this is for 2g 7-bolt auto and is spot on!
Custom cnc'd Automatic Flex plate, 3 times as strong as the factory and uses 8 mounting points instead of the 4. My answer to the kiggley flex plate for 7-bolts... Yes this is for 2g 7-bolt auto and is spot on!
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