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Anyway O.P. go ahead and run the 20w-50 its GREAT for your engine, and to any others in the future that look at this, go with experience rather than some websites "theory" after all we all know what the "mototune" website theory has done for people (rolleyes), learn from not only other peoples mistakes but others success. Oh, btw Mitsubishi recommends the option of 20w-50 right in the owners manual people, check it out.
 
Yeah, I must be inexperienced, I havent built an 8 second 4g63 or anything either...we're just a couple of wild and crazzzzy guys Loki, what do we know eh?
 
We are saying go for it, people read things and yada yada, but the bottom line is there are theories on things but once a person tries something and proves that the theories are bunk then the theories should then be laid to rest, unfortunately the subject of oil is like politics and even though you can prove something, people like to stick to there ideals on the oil subject, let them find out on there own is how I feel about it, you can lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink, AND there is nothing wrong with thinking outside the box either, however this is the reason you dont want just ANY machine shop that works on V-8 engines working on your 4g63, because the V-8 ideas dont always apply to every engine, and lots and lots of 4g63 blocks and heads have ended up in the dumpster because of someones generic engine theories or that persons ideas or internet research, whatever you want to call it.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
We are saying go for it, people read things and yada yada, but the bottom line is there are theories on things but once a person tries something and proves that the theories are bunk then the theories should then be laid to rest, unfortunately the subject of oil is like politics and even though you can prove something, people like to stick to there ideals on the oil subject, let them find out on there own is how I feel about it, you can lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink, AND there is nothing wrong with thinking outside the box either, however this is the reason you dont want just ANY machine shop that works on V-8 engines working on your 4g63, because the V-8 ideas dont always apply to every engine, and lots and lots of 4g63 blocks and heads have ended up in the dumpster because of someones generic engine theories or that persons ideas or internet research, whatever you want to call it.
ok thanks bro you saved me a trip back to store to exchange oil lol and my fathers been a mechanic for over 20 years now and he has bin on my case about the oil for the longest now but bro one last question man sorry to bother you but you might know about this tomorrow i am putting new gaskets all in my exhaust manifold area i got all the gaskets i need but my question is since i am going to dump the oil i usually always let the car warm up before i proceed in flushing the oil but do i need to let the exhaust manifold get hot or stay cold when taking the turbo bolts out because i know they tend to always snap i have new bolts of course but i just dont want to go through the process of tap and dying the bolt out and I will be using my snap on electric impact gun to get it out thanks for any sugestions
 
I find that exhaust bolts are much less prone to snap if you remove them from a hot manifold, the manifold expands and allows more clearance between the threads, you might want to do a few sequences of loosen tighten though by hand before putting an impact on them, also a little wax as in parafin/candle wax on or around the threads while hot can make easier to remove, the wax will wick its way into the threads.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I find that exhaust bolts are much less prone to snap if you remove them from a hot manifold, the manifold expands and allows more clearance between the threads, you might want to do a few sequences of loosen tighten though by hand before putting an impact on them, also a little wax as in parafin/candle wax on or around the threads while hot can make easier to remove, the wax will wick its way into the threads.
what do you mean by
you might want to do a few sequences of loosen tighten though by hand before putting an impact on them
 
What I'm gettin at is that you should break them loose with a ratchet (just crack them loose) and then tighten them back up slightly, then repeat a few times to clean the threads out before attempting to just throw an impact on them, they are high grade and when they break they are a bear to remove, its generally a good idea to replace them upon removal also, and at the very least you should run a tap into the threads and a die on the stud/bolts before re-use.
 
Of course you can use a breaker bar if you have to, they should come out with a regular ratchet though, if you have to use a breaker bar to get them to budge then they are probably super tight and prone to break.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Of course you can use a breaker bar if you have to, they should come out with a regular ratchet though, if you have to use a breaker bar to get them to budge then they are probably super tight and prone to break.
lol ahh lets hope it dosen't come to it then =/ and when putting the new bolts should i put some type of bolt lube you know the ones they sell at autozone ?
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Good to see the enthusiasm!
Yea bro I want to some day know as much as my fathers knows. I always have to ask my dad questions on something because obviously he always knows more then me but some day i hope to gain his knoledge and I love my DSM it has a Lot of problems such as crank walk but that im not giving up on her im going to do everything i can to get her going and I love working on my car =] Always Makes my day
 
And i am thinking of taking my radiator out for space do you suggest it ?
Highly suggested. That turbo is alot heavier than it looks inside that little compartment, and you dont want to dent your fins smuggling that thing out the way.
 
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