I just tried to have my 1g aligned today. It has stock suspension on it for now and the alignment is so out of wack they said I have to have a camber kit to align it. I know I'll have to have it re-aligned when I put on the GR-2's and Evo 8 stock springs but my tires are being destroyed fast. Which would be the camber kit I would want to go with? I saw Eibach has one for like 22 bucks. Will that have everything I need for both fronts? thanks.
Which camber kit?
EVO TSI
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Joined
·
16 Posts
I just tried to have my 1g aligned today. It has stock suspension on it for now and the alignment is so out of wack they said I have to have a camber kit to align it. I know I'll have to have it re-aligned when I put on the GR-2's and Evo 8 stock springs but my tires are being destroyed fast. Which would be the camber kit I would want to go with? I saw Eibach has one for like 22 bucks. Will that have everything I need for both fronts? thanks.
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
Eibach has them, and Ingalls has them too. They're basically the top bolts, on each side, which makes them adjustable. Really easy to install
Joined
·
1,524 Posts
"Really easy to install." Yes but it can be a real bitch getting the old ones out. Have a saws-all, a dozen blades, a BFH, and a box of band-aids ready.
I hope it goes easy for you.
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
Really? I had no problems, ever, on all of my 3 1G's to remove the front knuckle-to-strut bolts. And one was rusted to shit, never snapped any either.
My friend was helping me work on the car a little, so I said he can install my front camber bolts as I'm bolting up my turbo to the manifold (which was bolted to the head in the car). By the time I put the turbo in, lined up the gasket, and threaded in the 4 bolts he installed my camber kit on one side, from start to finish.
My friend was helping me work on the car a little, so I said he can install my front camber bolts as I'm bolting up my turbo to the manifold (which was bolted to the head in the car). By the time I put the turbo in, lined up the gasket, and threaded in the 4 bolts he installed my camber kit on one side, from start to finish.
Joined
·
16 Posts
Thanks alot swade! That helps big time. So all they are atre a type of lower strut bolt that takes the place of the 2 factory ones? Shouldnt be to hard. Is that 25 dollars per side there swade or does that do both sides? Thanks again.
Joined
·
411 Posts
when you install them, put them to fully negative camber. This will net you the best handling, crispest turn in and nicest feel. If you loosen the lower bolt, but tighten it to take out the slop enough to allow movement, then rotate the 14mm bolt head(the one that turns the cam) the camber will change visually. Now, put a large flat bladed screwdriver into the top rotor vanes so you have some leverage on the rotor. If the rotor is loose, put on a couple of lug nuts to hold it. Now, exert pressure on the top of the rotor with the screwdriver while you adjust the camber. When it is in as far as it will go(negative camber, rotor top inwards), snug up the camber bolt, then tighten up both bolts.
Tell the alignment shop to do thier best in the back, and set the TOE ONLY up front as you have the camber where you want it. If they give you any BS take it somewhere else. Tell them you know the numbers will be in red, not green, but those are the specs you want. Have them set a VERY minor amount of toe out in the front. Just a whee bit. This will give more crisp turn ins without any undue tire wear. Toe in makes the car feel minivan sluggish. Too much toe out and it will scrub the tires, but a little bit makes it nice safely.
Its toe that wears the tires, camber CAN exaggerate the wear as its concentrated more on one side of the tire, but its the toe that does it, not the camber. Well at least not at this little level.
you will probably see roughly 1.5deg negatiive camber if you get all the adjustment provided by those bolts.
I have done this on at least 6 1g dsms and probably 25 or so other cars. The shop I work at has an alignment rack so we do them alot. I have 2 of my own that I have owned for 4 and 8 years respectively and have the negative camber set like this and the tire wear is always even.
The rear is another story...
Tell the alignment shop to do thier best in the back, and set the TOE ONLY up front as you have the camber where you want it. If they give you any BS take it somewhere else. Tell them you know the numbers will be in red, not green, but those are the specs you want. Have them set a VERY minor amount of toe out in the front. Just a whee bit. This will give more crisp turn ins without any undue tire wear. Toe in makes the car feel minivan sluggish. Too much toe out and it will scrub the tires, but a little bit makes it nice safely.
Its toe that wears the tires, camber CAN exaggerate the wear as its concentrated more on one side of the tire, but its the toe that does it, not the camber. Well at least not at this little level.
you will probably see roughly 1.5deg negatiive camber if you get all the adjustment provided by those bolts.
I have done this on at least 6 1g dsms and probably 25 or so other cars. The shop I work at has an alignment rack so we do them alot. I have 2 of my own that I have owned for 4 and 8 years respectively and have the negative camber set like this and the tire wear is always even.
The rear is another story...
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
The rear is completely different on a 1G. You need to replace the entire control arm, with one that is adjustable.
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
Yeah but what the hell do you do with the strut bar ... I saw a thread with a guy who build the control arm out of some AFCO stuff but he had to reweld a mount for the rear strut bar ... Even with the Inguall kit I don't see any braket to fix the strut bar ... I need to drop this b****h this winter to loose my 4x4 status and since my first gen is more a daily I want to keep the strut bar for handling ... 
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
Pat, the strut tower bar sits inside the car, from the top of the driver side strut to the top of the passenger side strut
The rear camber kit has nothing to do with it.
The rear camber kit has nothing to do with it.
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
I meant the rear sway bar ... sorry :rofl:
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
I dunno, I didn't have to touch, modify, or even look at my sway bar when I installed my rear camber kit
Joined
·
112 Posts
The only time you need to make up a mount for the rear sway bar is when you make the lower control arm out of AFCO parts.
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
Well I tought there was only one camber kit for the rear ... ? Did you used cam bolt for the front and rear ?
Joined
·
2,283 Posts
No, only the front uses one of those. The rear you generally have to get the entire upper control arm, which is adjustable. I have the Maximal Performance kit.
http://www.maximalperformance.com/store/suspension/awd-adjustable-control-arms/prod_63.html
http://www.maximalperformance.com/store/suspension/awd-adjustable-control-arms/prod_63.html
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
I always tought those arms where for the lower control arm and not the upper one ... :rofl:
Thanks Lucian !
Thanks Lucian !
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
