I just bought my first turbo car, it is a 91 GS-T. The guy I bought it from said he thinks it needs a new head, but he isn't sure. Upon inspecting it, I took the COP setup off and found that all of the spark plug holes were filled with oil. (How can this happen?) After that I took off the valve cover, and the head seems to be OK up top, but then I tried to spin the motor, and once I get through like a quarter rotation, I can't turn it by hand anymore. So I am thinking it is out of time? My next step I was planning to take is to pull the head off and check the piston tops and stuff to see if they are banged up or anything. But I was wondering how the spark plug holes can become filled with oil, and if I can't turn the motor by hand, does this mean it is likely out of time? Also, is the fuel rail the same from non turbo to turbo? (Not the injectors, just the rail.)
New Car and a Few Questions?
Himari
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I just bought my first turbo car, it is a 91 GS-T. The guy I bought it from said he thinks it needs a new head, but he isn't sure. Upon inspecting it, I took the COP setup off and found that all of the spark plug holes were filled with oil. (How can this happen?) After that I took off the valve cover, and the head seems to be OK up top, but then I tried to spin the motor, and once I get through like a quarter rotation, I can't turn it by hand anymore. So I am thinking it is out of time? My next step I was planning to take is to pull the head off and check the piston tops and stuff to see if they are banged up or anything. But I was wondering how the spark plug holes can become filled with oil, and if I can't turn the motor by hand, does this mean it is likely out of time? Also, is the fuel rail the same from non turbo to turbo? (Not the injectors, just the rail.)
Those spark plug galleys getting filled with oil is usually caused by a leaking oil cap seal, or spark plug seals. As far as not being able to turn it by hand, it's probably out of time, probably with bent valves.
The rail itself is the same from turbo to non-turbo. The 90 of course is different than the rest.
The rail itself is the same from turbo to non-turbo. The 90 of course is different than the rest.
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If any of the valves are bent. You would have real loose rockers.
I take it you pulled the plugs out. What did they look like?
I take it you pulled the plugs out. What did they look like?
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502 Posts
I pulled the valve cover, and none of the rockers are loose really. The plugs all looked pretty good other than being soaked in oil.. The kid I bought it from said that he shut the motor off with the key and it just wouldn't start again. I am going to be pulling the head tomorrow and see what it looks like.
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502 Posts
So I finally got around to getting my head off, and I think it is still good! I can turn the cams pretty easily, and I can watch the valves come down on each turn under the head. Also, all my spark plugs were in good shape, and my pistons appear to look good on the top, cylinder walls also look smooth. I am going to post a video later, but for now I had a few questions. I confirmed that I have a 14b turbo, and I was possibly thinking about switching to a 2nd gen manifold, and upgrading my turbo and stuff later on. I just ordered a timing belt kit from parts dinosaur with all the new pulleys, new tensioner, timing belt, balance shaft, and water pump. But I was seeking some advice on the following:
1. What head gasket would you guys recommend I go with?
2. Would getting a 2nd gen manifold be a good idea with my stock turbo?
3. I am considering getting a new clutch kit while I have the motor all apart, could someone recommend one to me that would be good for a street car, but also be good if I plan on upgrading my turbo in the next year? (Something like a 16g maybe.)
Any help is appreciated.
1. What head gasket would you guys recommend I go with?
2. Would getting a 2nd gen manifold be a good idea with my stock turbo?
3. I am considering getting a new clutch kit while I have the motor all apart, could someone recommend one to me that would be good for a street car, but also be good if I plan on upgrading my turbo in the next year? (Something like a 16g maybe.)
Any help is appreciated.
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668 Posts
1. OEM mitsu composite, with new OEM head bolts.
2. Yes. Especially if your original is cracked and needs replaced anyway.
3. Clutch choice: a lot of different choices. I have an ACT 2100, good street clutch for a mild setup. ACT 2100 or 2600 would not be a bad choice (given a 14b-16g setup).
2. Yes. Especially if your original is cracked and needs replaced anyway.
3. Clutch choice: a lot of different choices. I have an ACT 2100, good street clutch for a mild setup. ACT 2100 or 2600 would not be a bad choice (given a 14b-16g setup).
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502 Posts
Wow, thank you for the awesome response! Answered all my questions, I did research, but sooo many choices, and I just wanted some input with the info I posted about my car, expected to get some sarcasm about searching, lol. Thanks again man.
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502 Posts
Sorry for all the replies, but I just want to make sure I get this right. Since I have my turbo and top end all off the car, what do you think of this?
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/nmd974636.htm
Would this be a good set for me to get so I can go ahead and replace all the gaskets and stuff?
http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/product_p/nmd974636.htm
Would this be a good set for me to get so I can go ahead and replace all the gaskets and stuff?
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502 Posts
Alright, another question: I have checked Extremepsi, DSMGraveyard, and a few other sites, I can't find head bolts on any of these sites, let alone OEM head bolts? Can anyone tell me a reputable site where I can buy a set of OEM head bolts? Because I am planning to go with the gasket set mentioned above, and OEM bolts, and the partsdinosaur timing kit I posted above.
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70 Posts
Maybe www.importperformanceparts.net? Why not go with a set of ARP head bolts. It never hurts to upgrade while ya can.
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2,660 Posts
That gasket set would be fine. You'll have some left overs, but if you ever go into the bottom end, you'll have them. Also comes with valve seals and you'd need a special tool to remove your springs to do so. You also may want to look into a "machinest straight edge" to check the head surface and block surface to make sure theres been no warpage. Even contact a machine shop to see if they can at least check the head surface.
The 2g manifold, if you have it, put it on. Theres no real need to do it now unless you've got access to it.
Head bolts, just go with ARP Head studs. Its an upgrade (some may disagree) but its easier to use them in my opinion, just order with your gasket set.
Clutch- ACT would be the most popular. I run a 2600 w/street disc and oem throw out bearing. 2100 is more suited for stock turbo/small 16g. Also check out the surface of your flywheel, if its looks horrid, you may need a resurfacing. You may also want to check out a new clutch fork and pivot ball pending milage and wear. Some will add a washer behind the pivot ball to make up for wear and ease of adjustment.
The 2g manifold, if you have it, put it on. Theres no real need to do it now unless you've got access to it.
Head bolts, just go with ARP Head studs. Its an upgrade (some may disagree) but its easier to use them in my opinion, just order with your gasket set.
Clutch- ACT would be the most popular. I run a 2600 w/street disc and oem throw out bearing. 2100 is more suited for stock turbo/small 16g. Also check out the surface of your flywheel, if its looks horrid, you may need a resurfacing. You may also want to check out a new clutch fork and pivot ball pending milage and wear. Some will add a washer behind the pivot ball to make up for wear and ease of adjustment.
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3,512 Posts
The only thing I noticed it's missing is the Semi Circular Plug!!! And those things are not sold individually from what I've researched!
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