Head Gasket Blew, Must I Machine the Head ?

planckscale · Jul 22, 2011

Greetings,

So last week I installed 264/264 Cams and took a drive test. The car was pulling hard, but after about 10 miles on the road the car lost power – no compression. We found out that the head gasket had cracked at the junction between cylinders 2 and 3!

The question is, do I have to machine the head before putting in a new gasket?
Possible warped? I hope not since the car has been driven only for about 100 miles since the last machine job.

Your advice, please.

Absit · Jul 22, 2011

It's a good idea to get it inspected, but it shouldn't need to be machined.

Wes393 · Jul 22, 2011

Absit said:
It's a good idea to get it inspected, but it shouldn't need to be machined.

Yup I'll second that. It's a good idea to get new head bolts (or studs) as well. The stockers have been known to stretch.

DSM4LIFE-AWD · Jul 22, 2011

If you go with an OEM composite gasket you'll be fine but if you go with a mutie layer one in metal, I suggest decking both.

DavemanDSM · Jul 22, 2011

As long as you did not over temp the head just get it checked out for flatness. I always have it pressure and crack checked reguardless on engine time.

planckscale · Jul 22, 2011

Thanks for the fast responses, guys. I am going with the multi-layer metal gasket...

Absit · Jul 22, 2011

Then you should have it machined again. Make sure it's machined to the right spec as well. You must have a surface finish of 50RA or better.
You can re-use the head studs if they're not TTY.

Ripper_XX · Jul 23, 2011

DSM4LIFE-AWD said:
If you go with an OEM composite gasket you'll be fine but if you go with a mutie layer one in metal, I suggest decking both.

If your not going for "big" power I completely agree here, the OEM gasket seals very very well, better than most aftermarket HG's actually.

Also just something to think about if you have a little extra coin to blow, i'd toss in a set of ARP head studs as they provide a more evenly distributed load across the head, giving you a better seal. You can find them for around $90 and a Mitsu HG tends to sell for around $80 sooo...why not if you already got to pull the head off. Hell personally if it's getting close to time for a timing belt change (or the 100k service) i'd go ahead and knock that out too. Just depends on how much money you have to spend. Easier to do it now though than later.

Wes393 · Jul 23, 2011

Ripper_XX said:
If your not going for "big" power I completely agree here, the OEM gasket seals very very well, better than most aftermarket HG's actually.

Very true. A lot of people push those composite gaskets pretty hard without much issue. So to the OP: Triple layers may get a good rep, but don't be like me and assume composite isn't strong. Not to mention there half the price! Some ARP studs, a OEM composite gasket, maybe a timing belt, and your head is ready for more boost than you are.

planckscale · Jul 23, 2011

Thanks guys. I already have the ARP Studs

.
I got the metal gasket for cheap and was sitting around as a spare.
The thing is, why do metal gasket make it necessary to resurface? Just curious...

And what is "a surface finish of 50RA"?
I don't think machinist down here have the means of getting to that spec.

Wes393 · Jul 24, 2011

planckscale said:
Thanks guys. I already have the ARP Studs .
I got the metal gasket for cheap and was sitting around as a spare.
The thing is, why do metal gasket make it necessary to resurface? Just curious...

And what is "a surface finish of 50RA"?
I don't think machinist down here have the means of getting to that spec.

The thinner outer surfaces of a MLS can't fill the tiny imperfections like the squishy composite gaskets. They are truly designed for near polished surfaces. However, if you smooth the surfaces yourself and use Copper Spray, they have been known to hold up very well. But you could sell that MLS for twice the price of a OEM composite and it will hold just as good.

DSM Bud · Jul 24, 2011

The copper spray should not be used for the OEM one since it has a rubber composite that automaticaly makes a seal. For less headache I'd say you should go with the OEM one. Works alot better for practical use and you wont have to go back and tear the motor up to rechange it.

planckscale · Jul 25, 2011

DSM Bud said:
The copper spray should not be used for the OEM .....

Unfortunate, it will take time to source the OEM, but I should eventually have it as a future spare. In the meantime, I have got the MLS gasket on my hand. I gotta figure out how to get it in there without leaking. Getting the copper spray is also an issue. Is there a substitute for copper spray?

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 25, 2011

I've made 700whp on a Mustang Dyno with a stock composite gasket and an o-ring. There is no need in your setup for anything metal especially anything other than factory Mitsu metal.

If you have a 7bolt then I suppose use those ARP studs (I wouldn't) but if you have a 6bolt then definitely don't use those ARP studs. 6bolt = stock or L19 studs, anything else is a downgrade.

Wes393 · Jul 25, 2011

DSM Bud said:
The copper spray should not be used for the OEM one since it has a rubber composite that automaticaly makes a seal.

I meant spray the MLS with copper spray.

OP: There is no substitute for copper spray, it's about $7 at any auto parts store. If your attempting to replace your head gasket on a budget, then using a MLS is not the way to go. OEM gaskets aren't difficult to find either, especially with the internet.

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 25, 2011

I had no problem making over 400 on a Napa gasket for 4 years.

99gst_racer · Jul 25, 2011

planckscale said:
Unfortunate, it will take time to source the OEM, but I should eventually have it as a future spare. In the meantime, I have got the MLS gasket on my hand. I gotta figure out how to get it in there without leaking. Getting the copper spray is also an issue. Is there a substitute for copper spray?

You might be able to find a Felpro composite at your local parts store, or at least be able to get it within a day. Worst case senerio, the OE composite gasket is only 2-3 days away with Extreme PSI. Don't use an MLS unless you have fresh machined surfaces. Composite is the way to go for you. Also, the head studs that you have are perfectly fine to keep using as long as you haven't over-torqued them in the past.

Wes393 said:
OP: There is no substitute for copper spray

Actually, there is. Regular spray paint is a good substitute for copper spray. But I also feel that no spray is nessacery for any head gasket.

K_Mans_TSI · Jul 25, 2011

Maybe he's impatient like a lot of DSMers and driving to the parts store or waiting a day is too long to wait when he has the parts (that probably won't work) sitting at his house.

planckscale · Jul 25, 2011

K_Mans_TSI said:
Maybe he's impatient like a lot of DSMers and driving to the parts store or waiting a day is too long to wait when he has the parts (that probably won't work) sitting at his house.

OH GOD (or the devil if he can be of help) I AM IN TANZANIA.

I tend to stock several parts for the rainy days, but unfortunately on the gasket it is the MLT that I have as a spare! So forget about the OEM for now. I can afford to buy it, but it will take ages to get it down here. Let's figure out the best way to get the MLT in there, since that is what I have right now.

planckscale · Jul 25, 2011

99gst_racer said:
...
Actually, there is. Regular spray paint is a good substitute for copper spray. But I also feel that no spray is necessary for any head gasket.

You mean any spray paint, or the metalic based ones?
That may be a great idea...Any specific type of spray should I look for?

Head Gasket Blew, Must I Machine the Head ?

planckscale

Absit

Wes393

DSM4LIFE-AWD

DavemanDSM

planckscale

Absit

Ripper_XX

Wes393

planckscale

Wes393

DSM Bud

planckscale

K_Mans_TSI

Wes393

K_Mans_TSI

99gst_racer

K_Mans_TSI

planckscale

planckscale

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