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This may sound like a stupid question, but is there a way to check for block straightness without pulling the block? Obviously my house rulers aren't going to check what needs to be checked. I didn't see anything other than discoloration on the block where the head decided to fubar...although this doesn't mean something isn't 100% right.
A good metal straight edge and feeler gauges will do the job just fine.

You can pick up the straight edge from big box home improvement stores and feelers from Autozone.

Do you mean block surface?

And I had a 1g head. That's what my JMF manifold is flanged for.
Buy a 2g head and have it ported out. I know a guy locally with a 2g head for cheap, that would save you over all on the port job.
 
You can check your blocks surface with a straight edge and feeler gauges. It's easily doable in car but for a REAL straight edge you're going to have to pay anywhere from 50 - 100 dollars for a chunk of metal. Never drop this thing, treat it like a torque wrench and put it in its own special place or hang it on a screw securely on your wall. These are easy to warp. You just lay the straight edge on the block and try to slide a feeler gauge underneath.

Like so http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/coupe/service/xml/graphics/x2/x20-063a.gif

I go for overkill and measure between every cylinder also just like C D and F. My chiltons manual states that you need to "check along the centerline and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage exceeds 0.003 in within a 6.0 in span, or .006 over the total length of the head the cylinder head must be resurfaced."

The exact measurements are called for on the block. Good luck.

EDIT: Did dsmtalk seriously automatically hyperlink cylinder head to ebay? -.-
 
Buy a 2g head and have it ported out.
You mean port out a 2G head to match a 1G intake port? If so, that's a big no-no.


Dustin, if you use a straight edge to check flatness, make sure you first check the straight edge to see how true it is. Many of them aren't straight enough to accurately measure .003" warp in a cylinder head or block because of it's own looser tolerance. I always use a machinist granite block to test for flatness.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Based on the pictures and the gouge in the head I'm not worried about the head. I'll just get another one and have the 1g head ported...especially if I can get one from that guy on the 'Link forums for $50.

I'm more concerned about checking the block. I'm just trying to do it right and make sure everything is straight.
 
Based on the pictures and the gouge in the head I'm not worried about the head. I'll just get another one and have the 1g head ported...especially if I can get one from that guy on the 'Link forums for $50.

I'm more concerned about checking the block. I'm just trying to do it right and make sure everything is straight.
You wont have to worry about porting a 1g head, unless you want to make the exhaust side bigger. You would have to worry about porting a 2g head because the intake ports are smaller than a 1g.
 
Post a picture up of the block. I had to resurface my block when I torched my head like that. Mine was a little worse though.

Also going up hill can put the car into a different load area on your map's. It may not have been tuned in that area. Just because you did not pick up knock did not mean the a/fs were not bad.
 
Is yours not ported? I thought it was.
CNC match ported. The intake was cleaned up and smoothed out and the exhaust was ported out to the size of a 2g exhaust.
 
The thickness of the side of an aluminum can is 80 micrometers, or .00314 in, makes for a quick feeler gauge. I know this because we just needed a .003-004 feeler gauge for some ATV valve adjustment. We didn't have one that thin so we used the can gauge. Worked perfectly and even tests out as .003 on a micrometer.

EDIT: For the record, it was a Mountain Dew can but I'm sure all Coke products use the same can. :D On a further side note, a standard single edge straight razor blade is .009 in. Before anyone busts my balls, yes I have true feeler gauges just not available at the time of ATV assembly, and I live about 45 minutes across some big ass mountains to the nearest store. Necessity is the mother of invention. :)
 
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