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colonelfox

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My tensioner isn't holding (I had to release, and tension it 4 times trying to fix my oil leak), and I don't want to spend $65 for a new one, so I'm making a manual one from a spare I have. I found a good Vfaq for it, and was wondering if anyone else did it. I'm going to try it either way.
 
Not quite sure what you mean by a manual, but the reason the hydraulic tensioner is used is to take up the slack from the cams rolling towards each other when the engine is stopped...

Not a good idea, imho...
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
In the manual one, you adjust the tensioner with a bolt in the bottom. My car is running like hell as it is without worrying about a skipping belt. It idles very low when warmed up, and is having a hard time turning over, but the battery, alternator, and starter are all brand new. I replaced the battery and starter a few months ago, and the alternator last month. Now the tbelt feels looser than it did after I replaced it. I bought a new tensioner when I changed the belt a few weeks ago. I had to loosen and tighten it several times in the process of tracking down the oil leak, so I know why it's going. I don't know how loose is too loose, but when I pull up on the belt from the top it comes up about a quarter of an inch. The tensioner is set to within spec, but the belt is loose. I'm not sure how. It doesn't feel close to skipping, but I'm not sure. This is my first tbelt change on a dsm. Either way, I'm afraid to drive it. I sold my spare head a week ago, and don't have a replacement now if it does go :( .
 
cut through all the manual tensioner bs and just cough up the $65.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
mavisky said:
cut through all the manual tensioner bs and just cough up the $65.
Wow, that sounded a little rough. I AM going to replace it when I get the turbo swap done, but I'm using a manual until then. Two weeks at most, hopefully this weekend if I can get my downpipe welded by then. I already replaced the tensioner less the 2 weeks ago, and I'm sure as hell not risking killing another one because I have to loosen and tighten it a few times. That would be damn near $200 I've spent purely in tbelt related parts in the last few weeks. Not including the rest I put into turbo parts, gaskets, and oil leak repairs. Well over a grand in the last month in parts. I'm not trying to be cheap, just quit spending all my money on my car. I think I have an addiction :( .
 
i thought you were gonna use that for good. i suppose that would be ok for a short time, but i'd make sure to keep the rpms down just to make sure.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
No, I'm not sure I would trust it for good. I can't see the bolt staying for good with all that vibration. There's only about 1/4 inch of thread that's actually locked. I don't rev it hard, but it's an auto, so it goes where it wants for the most part. I'm not so sure the tensioner is to blame after all. I looked at it, and it's still within spec (did the drill bit test), but for some reason the belt is looser than it should be. I'm not sure if it could have, but I'm starting to think maybe the tensioner pulley shifted. It's sitting in a position I don't remember it in It was sitting with the 2 marking holes up and to the left, now they're sitting midway on the pulley. It's still torqued properly though, so I don't know how it could have moved. I have another almost new pulley I'll throw on there when I do the turbo swap just to be safe. I'll look at the tensioner, but to be safe I'm using the manual until I'm ready for the new auto one. Thanks.
 
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