so i had a bad timing belt tensioner, and a bad HG so i ended up just pulling the head to clean everything up and throw some new gaskets in. i was curious as to if there was any tips on putting it back on? im getting ARP head studs of course.
about to put the head back on
Spoolin 4g63
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so i had a bad timing belt tensioner, and a bad HG so i ended up just pulling the head to clean everything up and throw some new gaskets in. i was curious as to if there was any tips on putting it back on? im getting ARP head studs of course.
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Re: about to put the had back on
Watch rule #7 man, cap lock those "I"s is a great place to start.
Make sure to remove all the old gasket material from the head and block! Some people would suggest using a copper sealant spray however that would be entirely up to you. If it's getting studded instead I would make sure the gasket is on before slipping the head over. That makes it alot easier because with out the studs you could tend to slide the gasket around and possibly damage it.
Don't forget to change the oil
Watch rule #7 man, cap lock those "I"s is a great place to start.
Make sure to remove all the old gasket material from the head and block! Some people would suggest using a copper sealant spray however that would be entirely up to you. If it's getting studded instead I would make sure the gasket is on before slipping the head over. That makes it alot easier because with out the studs you could tend to slide the gasket around and possibly damage it.
Don't forget to change the oil
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Re: about to put the had back on
First chek the rule #7 before a mod see how you type ...
What HG are you using ? Did you chek if the head is straight ? What did you used to clean this up ? What boost level you want ?
Some use cooper spray, some don't ... It's up to you I guess.
First chek the rule #7 before a mod see how you type ...
What HG are you using ? Did you chek if the head is straight ? What did you used to clean this up ? What boost level you want ?
Some use cooper spray, some don't ... It's up to you I guess.
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Re: about to put the had back on
I never used it ... The only thing we use is metal multi layer gasket and we deck block and head at the minimum to get the cleanest surface as possible. Will it bump compression a bit, only depend on the tickness of the HG you'll use.
I heard good and bad feedback on cooper spray so I decided to go without it. So far so good on my friends car but still haven't had the chance to start my DSM ... :rofl:
I never used it ... The only thing we use is metal multi layer gasket and we deck block and head at the minimum to get the cleanest surface as possible. Will it bump compression a bit, only depend on the tickness of the HG you'll use.
I heard good and bad feedback on cooper spray so I decided to go without it. So far so good on my friends car but still haven't had the chance to start my DSM ... :rofl:
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Re: about to put the had back on
I have heard the copper spray is only good for n/a. A buddy of mine used it on his turbo 240 and did not last too long. I used a felpro permatorque. Not the cheepo felpro this one was like 90 bucks. Long story short it has worked well for me. Make sure there is no oil at all still in head did a buddy of mines and when we torqued it down oil squeezed out so we had to re do the whole thing. It worsted to be empty but not all the way. Replace all exhaust manifold studs my old ones always seem to leak.
I have heard the copper spray is only good for n/a. A buddy of mine used it on his turbo 240 and did not last too long. I used a felpro permatorque. Not the cheepo felpro this one was like 90 bucks. Long story short it has worked well for me. Make sure there is no oil at all still in head did a buddy of mines and when we torqued it down oil squeezed out so we had to re do the whole thing. It worsted to be empty but not all the way. Replace all exhaust manifold studs my old ones always seem to leak.
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Please listen to the advice about rule 7 given by the first two replies. Intelligence and effort are welcomed here.
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I used copper spray on my HG with no issues so far. I used a very light coat on both sides and I believe it lets the gasket slide easier when it's being torqued down.
As for whats best to do, I would at least get the head resurfaced and maybe some valve work. Who knows when you'll pull the head next, why not give it a full work up while it's out? And I agree with Motozachl, if you want to run a MLS head gasket you will need to have the block and head resurfaced. However, there is nothing wrong with using an OEM composite gasket especially if your going to be installing ARP studs.
As for whats best to do, I would at least get the head resurfaced and maybe some valve work. Who knows when you'll pull the head next, why not give it a full work up while it's out? And I agree with Motozachl, if you want to run a MLS head gasket you will need to have the block and head resurfaced. However, there is nothing wrong with using an OEM composite gasket especially if your going to be installing ARP studs.
91 Talon TSI AWD - OG Black AMS Talon from TX2K days. FP Green, ECMLink, 5spd.
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Composite gasket FTW. They are being taken to amazing levels these days, and even farther beyond that with an o-ringed head.
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alrighty well thanks for the input guys! ill keep you posted on how everything turns out, proly a week or two out before shes back together, i need to take out another loan for parts. DSM FTW<3
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I recently replaced the head on my car and I used the copper spray. I sprayed it on both sides and let it dry for a few minutes and then I torqued it down. Im also using a composite hg as well and arp studs. I haven't had any issues so far with 20lbs of boost.
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Never use copper GLUE on the composite gasket. Have you noticed that the gasket is coated in Teflon? it is there to allow the gasket to move since the aluminum head expands at a different rate than the iron block does as it heats up and cools down, this prevents scrubbing of the surface/gasket wear and eventually complete failure. When you use copper gasket ADHESIVE you completely undo that ability by gluing the gasket to the head and block, not very smart. That product has a long history and was made for air cooled engines that used copper head gaskets (motorcycles, lawn mowers, VW's) I'm convinced that its only still relevant today because old hacks have kept it popular out of forcive habit. I have seen it used on the mls style gaskets especially around the oil and water ports and it might work in that instance in that the mls gasket can be locked to the block and still has a center layer that will move independant of the upper or lower metal layer thus lowering the instance of complete gasket failure in spite of the adhesive.
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