I parked my car and it sat for a few months, I went to use it and it wouldn't start. I have no spark. I have no Idea. The fuses look good, I don't have a clue how to check the transistor, and it is a bitch to get to the wires on the coil plug, what do I do now?
dead Talon
Sprinklerguy
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I parked my car and it sat for a few months, I went to use it and it wouldn't start. I have no spark. I have no Idea. The fuses look good, I don't have a clue how to check the transistor, and it is a bitch to get to the wires on the coil plug, what do I do now?
Is fuel being injected?
Just a note: Your turbo is probably bone dry and if the engine starts, bearing damage will probably begin before lubrication arrives. I suggest priming the turbo before starting the engine.
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I had a problem with the fuel pump, it turned out to be some corrosion in the plug and when I got the fuel pump working again it ran fine. It sat for a few weeks and this is where I am. I pulled a wire and plugged in a spark plug, grounded it and had someone crank it over...No spark.
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someone told me its simple crank it over and see if the tach is moving if not it's the CAS. I just tried it and the tach stays on 0. Is this correct, is there a fuse that could be causing this or another corroded plug somewhere?
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I'd suggest verifying if the timing belt is moving as well. Take the cover on the driver's side of the head off and attempt to start the engine. If the cam gears don't turn but the accessory belts do, then your timing belt is shot. That happened to me and another guy recently - look for the '1g 92 Talon died...' thread for more.
If the timing belt isn't turning the cams then the cas won't signal the ECU to send spark to the plugs.
If the timing belt isn't turning the cams then the cas won't signal the ECU to send spark to the plugs.
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Bro your battery could be dead. Even if autozone says it's good it could be dead. Try a spare battery my car sat for months because I was too slow to try a different battery.
Another reason my car wouldn't start was a bad fuel pump... spray a little starting fluid in the intake. If it starts for a few seconds and dies it's likely a fuel issue.
Have you tried push starting it? Just a couple suggestions that won't break the bank.
Another reason my car wouldn't start was a bad fuel pump... spray a little starting fluid in the intake. If it starts for a few seconds and dies it's likely a fuel issue.
Have you tried push starting it? Just a couple suggestions that won't break the bank.
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I charged the battery and it cranks good, my belt was changed and only has about 15000 miles on it so I am assuming it's good but I will check anyway. I didn't look at the check engine light but I will now.
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Not trying to beat a dead horse but try a spare battery, gangsta.
I had mine charged more than once and it didn't work... turned over but no start. GL
I had mine charged more than once and it didn't work... turned over but no start. GL
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Why are you guys suggesting his battery is dead when he's able to crank it over just fine? I could see if cranking was labored, but that hasn't been mentioned as a symptom. Alas, charge your battery and watch for a voltage drop at the posts while cranking. If it dips below 10.5v, get it tested/replaced.
As other's have suggested, it could be a number of other issues. Check the timing belt. Rather than having to pull the cover, you can look down through the oil cap as it's cranked over. You had better see the intake cam roll, otherwise get ready to deal with a bad timing belt, however it's rather unlikely to have broken while just sitting. It doesn't hurt to throw a set of jumper cables on the battery from the negative post to the block to ensure you have a good ground, but if the starter is rolling over fine, the grounds corroding is also likely to be a non issue.
Verify the CEL comes on when the key is first turned to the on position. If not, start to thing "ECM issues." Verify the fuel system is able to function properly. I don't know if you have a 1 or 2g, but there is a 2-plug service/test connector under the hood attached to the firewall by the throttle body of a 2g. By providing 12v from the battery to the connector, you should get the fuel pump to turn on. The connector looks like this:
![Image]()
So far, this is 5 minutes worth of very basic troubleshooting. Once you have eliminated the fuel system, start looking at the CAS. Your fuel system won't work unless there is a CAM/Crank signal. These cars don't prime themselves like most others. The pump only comes on with the engine in rotation and proper electrical signals. If you are at a point you suspect the CAS is faulty, remove it and give it a few good raps with the handle end of a screw driver, being careful not damage it. The CAS is a magnetic hall switch. If while sitting, the internals have seized causing it to fail, jostling the sensor may un-stick the internals. If you get spark and fuel because of this, get another CAS as yours is on it's last leg.
So, that's 10 minutes... Hopefully if you've cranked it over, you've listen for the fuel pump. If you hear the pump while cranking, you are getting the proper signal from the under-hood sensors and should move onto the coil being the next issue. Pull it and OHM it out with a meter. You should be able to find the specs here...www.google.com.
If the coil checks out ok, work your way back from there. Probe the wiring with your meter. I haven't had to do this yet, but you should see 12v at the connector and low resistance to ground at some other wires. If you crank the car, probe the ground circuit and test it to verify the circuit opens and closes. If it doesn't switch, you have a short or the ECM is causing some issues.
Now you are up to an hour dependent on how well you use a meter. You should have considered a compression test by now and possibly pulled the upper timing cover and rolled the engine over to TDC and verified you didn't skip time the last time it ran or through all of the previous cranking you'd done.
Than again, it cranks just fine. Durp, it must be the battery.
As other's have suggested, it could be a number of other issues. Check the timing belt. Rather than having to pull the cover, you can look down through the oil cap as it's cranked over. You had better see the intake cam roll, otherwise get ready to deal with a bad timing belt, however it's rather unlikely to have broken while just sitting. It doesn't hurt to throw a set of jumper cables on the battery from the negative post to the block to ensure you have a good ground, but if the starter is rolling over fine, the grounds corroding is also likely to be a non issue.
Verify the CEL comes on when the key is first turned to the on position. If not, start to thing "ECM issues." Verify the fuel system is able to function properly. I don't know if you have a 1 or 2g, but there is a 2-plug service/test connector under the hood attached to the firewall by the throttle body of a 2g. By providing 12v from the battery to the connector, you should get the fuel pump to turn on. The connector looks like this:
So far, this is 5 minutes worth of very basic troubleshooting. Once you have eliminated the fuel system, start looking at the CAS. Your fuel system won't work unless there is a CAM/Crank signal. These cars don't prime themselves like most others. The pump only comes on with the engine in rotation and proper electrical signals. If you are at a point you suspect the CAS is faulty, remove it and give it a few good raps with the handle end of a screw driver, being careful not damage it. The CAS is a magnetic hall switch. If while sitting, the internals have seized causing it to fail, jostling the sensor may un-stick the internals. If you get spark and fuel because of this, get another CAS as yours is on it's last leg.
So, that's 10 minutes... Hopefully if you've cranked it over, you've listen for the fuel pump. If you hear the pump while cranking, you are getting the proper signal from the under-hood sensors and should move onto the coil being the next issue. Pull it and OHM it out with a meter. You should be able to find the specs here...www.google.com.
If the coil checks out ok, work your way back from there. Probe the wiring with your meter. I haven't had to do this yet, but you should see 12v at the connector and low resistance to ground at some other wires. If you crank the car, probe the ground circuit and test it to verify the circuit opens and closes. If it doesn't switch, you have a short or the ECM is causing some issues.
Now you are up to an hour dependent on how well you use a meter. You should have considered a compression test by now and possibly pulled the upper timing cover and rolled the engine over to TDC and verified you didn't skip time the last time it ran or through all of the previous cranking you'd done.
Than again, it cranks just fine. Durp, it must be the battery.
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