I have been trying to get my Car started after a head gasket and timing belt job. For some reason the thing is getting no spark. To test for this I pulled a plug, connected it to an old spark plug and watched for arc. No spark on any of the 4 wires. I then continued to investigate and replace the battery, wires and plugs. I checked the coil and the resistance appears to be alright. I then went on to testing my Crank position sensor and noticed that back probing the ground terminal (on the connection) and the ground (bare metal on block) that I measured a resistance of approx 1000 ohms. Could this explain my no start issue? The starter is kicking (and motor is turning over) and I have already checked the clutch depression switch. Also I found this connector unplugged and after many google searches can not figure out where it goes and what it is. Thank you in advance for the help.
No Spark
bbbenjamin
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I have been trying to get my Car started after a head gasket and timing belt job. For some reason the thing is getting no spark. To test for this I pulled a plug, connected it to an old spark plug and watched for arc. No spark on any of the 4 wires. I then continued to investigate and replace the battery, wires and plugs. I checked the coil and the resistance appears to be alright. I then went on to testing my Crank position sensor and noticed that back probing the ground terminal (on the connection) and the ground (bare metal on block) that I measured a resistance of approx 1000 ohms. Could this explain my no start issue? The starter is kicking (and motor is turning over) and I have already checked the clutch depression switch. Also I found this connector unplugged and after many google searches can not figure out where it goes and what it is. Thank you in advance for the help.
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92 Posts
Update- I am an idiot. The Mpi Fuse was blown. Not completely like I am used to seeing, but just kinda fizzled and non centered. I now have spark. I am charging the battery to see if it will start now. For all noobs, like myself, if a fuse looks burnt it is (as in it does not have to be not connected to cause an issue, only real way to check is with a multi meter). Will now check for 12 volts at injectors, crank position sensor and cam position sensor with battery connected and ignition on.
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92 Posts
So I am not trying to get my post count up but the car now went from no spark to intermittent spark. I have been going through the entire electrical system and noticed that my crank position sensor is giving a voltage between 7-9 volts which is outside the range of .4 to 4 volts as listed in the manual. Would this cause a no start. I know that the crank position sensor controls the fuel and spark. Thank you in advance for the help.
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Is it a black with white tracer? If so that looks like the connector for the radio frequency inhibitor, little cylinder looking thing to keep rf signals out of the ignition circuit. The cas would have more play in spark and fuel for the cylinder but they work together. I'm assuming it's the 95 tsi from your profile? Double check timing, how are you determining its intermittent spark? Make sure your plug wires are right.
On the 95-96 there is a Crank angle Position sensor AND a Cam Angle Position Sensor, make sure you check the Cam sensor as well, because it will cause a no spark/ no start as well.
I had the same problem, the engine I bought had the Crank Angle Sensor turned around backwards, so the crank wasn't passing through the crank, put it on the correct way and bam!.
Also correct me if I am wrong, but I heard a bad Temp sensor will cause bad spark
I had the same problem, the engine I bought had the Crank Angle Sensor turned around backwards, so the crank wasn't passing through the crank, put it on the correct way and bam!.
Also correct me if I am wrong, but I heard a bad Temp sensor will cause bad spark
By the way posting in the newbie section wont make you post count go up :takethat::takethat:
had to use it lol
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Got it!!!!!!!! Crank position sensor was bad (and so was the multi-meter from harbor freight 
). Thank you guys for all the help. By the way the Hanes manual is wrong in two respects as to the instillation. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doing so will require a large amount of time.
Also do not remove the center bolt on the crank pulley. The crank pulley slips off with the 4 bolts surrounding it. Lastly my brand new crank position sensor reads from .17v to 5.0v which is different then the .4 to 4.0 listed in the Hanes manual. Thanks again guys for all the help and I hope some one who has a bad crank position sensor will stumble across this article before trying to remove a timing belt.
). Thank you guys for all the help. By the way the Hanes manual is wrong in two respects as to the instillation. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Doing so will require a large amount of time. Also do not remove the center bolt on the crank pulley. The crank pulley slips off with the 4 bolts surrounding it. Lastly my brand new crank position sensor reads from .17v to 5.0v which is different then the .4 to 4.0 listed in the Hanes manual. Thanks again guys for all the help and I hope some one who has a bad crank position sensor will stumble across this article before trying to remove a timing belt.
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92 Posts
Update- So Same problem again. When taking car for first drive after having worked on it for 3 years randomly it died. I took it back to my garage and realized I was getting no spark again. I then Checked the beloved cps sensor and it was reading 8.0-9.6 while the engine cranked. Why is this? I just installed the new sensor!!!! Any ideas why I would be reading such a high voltage.
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