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Project Clean 420a

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Discussion starter · #204 ·
Yeah my idea exactly. But for some strange reason people come up to me and say they like my car a lot without the side-skirts. Personally I like the 2Ga Talon skirts and the 2Gb Eclipse skirts always look good.

I fixed the minor whole with fiberglass and bondo. Its not a great job but its my first real bodywork job so considering it came out fairly well. The bad side is getting welded
 
Discussion starter · #206 ·
Thinking about tackling the other side soon when my welder is fixed. Compared to this side the other one is a nightmare probably a square foot of metal is gone in the rear rocker area. 240 is still eating up my time since its too loud to pass NJ inspection. Putting new flange on that to stop an exhaust and hopefully sound leak.
 
Discussion starter · #207 ·
Welder is still not working. The regulator on it crapped out. I'm in the process of sanding down, wire brushing, and grinding the rust off the other side, then Anti-rust paint, then rivet on an ugly plate over it and seal with seam sealer, then paint, 2Gb side skirts and a coat of plasti-dip for the whole car and I'm done. Pics will come in a bit
 
Discussion starter · #210 ·
Just ordered the pro car kit from DipYourCar.com. Plans for winter break:
new ignition coil and spark plug wires( the rubber is starting to rip on the old ones)
Spray entire car with navy plasti-dip with a black base coat to protect it from the elements
Fix what sounds like lifter noise coming from inside the valve cover
seal exhaust leaks w/ new gaskets
fix all oil leaks
plasti-dip summer rims in bright white

Spring Break:
Megan Racing EZ street coil overs since my shocks are shot anyway
 
#212 ·
FormulaDz92 said:
Here's some pics finally
Click to expand...
Nice job getting the rust cleaned up, where did you get the patch panels/metal for the repair?

FormulaDz92 said:
Entire car dipped with Navy blue plastidip from dipyourcar.com, MSD ingnition coil and spark plug wires installed, rust removed, sealed, and steel plate riveted on to cover it up.
Click to expand...

I like the color, what did it cost you total to dip? Any tips having done it? Any really tough part?
I saw you talked about it earlier, but the gsx sideskirts I think would complete the car.
 
Discussion starter · #213 ·
lazylaser said:
Nice job getting the rust cleaned up, where did you get the patch panels/metal for the repair?

I like the color, what did it cost you total to dip? Any tips having done it? Any really tough part?
I saw you talked about it earlier, but the gsx sideskirts I think would complete the car.
Click to expand...
1. The patch panel is actually from an old supply shelf, its probably about 2.5 mm thick. It was much harder to bend than I anticipated but I got it done. If I could do it again I would have used a lighter metal. This just happened to be free and readily available.

2. The Pro Car Kit cost me roughly $400 in total. I did buy it on cyber wednesday and I selected the option to customize my kit with 4 gallons, and a respirator. The exact mix is 1/4 gallon matte black to 1 gallon matte navy blue. I also did a completely black base coat to make the navy come out darker(instead of just painting over white). In total i only ended up using 2 and 1/4 gallons since the car is so small. If you decide to do it to your car definitely get no more than 3 gallons. Basic colors run ~$50 per gallon

*also if you choose to do it I recommend removing your wing and door mirrors and painting them separately. And layer on the coats nice and thick for the best finish. And don't forget to razor all your edges before peeling.
 
Discussion starter · #214 ·
The Infamous Squeak

*This is something between a rant, an explanation and a plan. Please excuse the poor grammar, structure and spelling. I'll post a better explanation in the morning*

Alright I need to just get this out on "paper" cause then maybe I will be able to understand the problem better. Way back when I bought my car it was running fine and the only problems it had were that the CD player skipped(factory 6 CD changer) and that there was a small oil leak from the valve cover gasket. Of course I got both of these things taken care of and I enjoyed my car for about 8 months - 1 year with no problems.

The next problem that came up was a squeak from my belts. It turned out it was the belt with my PS, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley. My mechanic(I didn't do much work on my car then) tightened it and I was happy. Then one month later same problem with the same solution and I go on my merry way. AGAIN almost one month later the squeak is back, and this time my mechanic tells me it must be the belt(which I hadn't changed). Again it runs for a while, then squeaks, then tightened etc. etc.

Next new part in the cycle becomes the idler pulley which is changed 2-3 times along with the belt. Next the power steering pulley is replaced, same story; it runs nice for a while, then more high pitched squeaking which sounds almost like a cricket being tortured. At this point the belt has been one of those minor annoyances that I am confident will soon be fixed. This is not the case.

A while later (about a year ago) I decide to take a more analytical approach and try to see 1. Where the squeak is actually coming from 2. What causes it and when it starts 3. If there's any visible signs of the belts or pulleys being damaged. (1. Definitely from the accessory belt, 3. No sign of damage to the belt or pulleys on quick inspection)

2. What I began to notice is that the squeak seems to really begin during or after it has rained or during times of extreme humidity or when the car is left outside or in a damp garage. Later during the winter I also notice that it squeaks more as the days get colder. After learning how to tighten and loosen the belt myself I find that like my mechanic I can make the squeak go away but also like my poor mechanic it is NEVER permanent.

*Let me just add at this point that I love my car very much. I spent plenty of time picking it, a lot of my hard-earned money maintaining it and trying to improve it, and a lot of time working on it. That said it really does test your love for something when it continues to squeak and scream like a banshee when you go to pick up your girlfriend and friends and you are forced to deal with the looks that say "wow this crapbox is what you waste your time and money on"

Anyway since winter has began I have been noticing that not only does my car squeak during wet and cold days(at which time I loosen or tighten the belt to counteract the belt stretching or contracting due to temperature) but that is now has both a high and lower pitched squeak/ squeal.

Now the car seems to be pretty good when the weather and the garage are dry as the belt is now adjusted to not squeak in cold weather. But, if there is a little water on the roads or a puddle in the garage the squeak starts right up and with no exaggeration lasts for up to 5 days even if those days are both cold and dry.

Now onto the important part, the plans for fixing this incredibly exasperating problem;

1. Find plastic trim caps for the holes in the front bumper where the side mount intercoolers would get their air in either of the turbocharged models
2. Fabricate a plastic plate for the underside of the front of the car to prevent spray from the highway from kicking up and getting the belts wet that way.
3. Keep garage extremely dry by using a fan to keep the floor dry and humidity down.
4. If steps 1-3 fail, replace each pulley one by one leaving plenty of time on the road in between to rule out the possibility that that pulley is the culprit. Also the belt can be replaced and inspected at this point.
5. Make sure that no engine fluids are dripping on the belt causing it to become wet that way and if they are, re-route the hoses to direct them away from the belts.
6. Check the brackets that the pulleys rest on for evenness or damage/excessive wear and replace as necessary.
7. Give up, throw things, curse, question your own existence, and ponder weather on not the car may be possessed by the devil himself.
 
Discussion starter · #216 ·
Belts been replaced 3 times(I use NAPA belts) and looks to be in good condition. Why do you say crank pulley first as apposed to the PS, AC, Idler or tensioner pulleys?
I ask because I just picked up a idler pulley an hour ago.
 
#217 ·
This may help you locate things. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

And If it came down to the worst (if you have money to throw at the car) I would replace the PS pump, sometimes that shaft seal on those bad boys go and PS fluid leaks down onto the pulley which then gets on the belt. IDK, but if you're at you whit's end its worth a shot.:dunno:
 
#218 ·
FormulaDz92 said:
Belts been replaced 3 times(I use NAPA belts) and looks to be in good condition. Why do you say crank pulley first as apposed to the PS, AC, Idler or tensioner pulleys?
I ask because I just picked up a idler pulley an hour ago.
Click to expand...
The crank pulley has the least amount of belt wrap and the highest load on it of all pulleys, the wear is the highest on the crank pulley due to occasional belt slippage and just plain frictional wear, also the crank pulley is the pulley closest to the ground where water can get to it, allowing a higher chance at a belt slipping on it if its not 100%.
 
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#220 ·
I'm sorry for your troubles, but number seven made me lose it. :rofl:



It's something you'll get used to, being a DSMer. Little small issues that will straight up drive you batshit insane. It doesn't get any better with a turbo DSM, in fact it actually gets worse. You should get a turbo DSM just to appreciate the little small issues that your N/T gives you. You'll quickly realize "holy hell this is nothing". :p
 
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