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matholland618

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. This GSX is relatively new to me. I just got it not long ago, and have had a few issues with it, which I have made topics about those. Anywho, this one is still outstanding. Here is my story.

I was driving it home from buying it, and popped the hood at a rest area and noticed the AC fan was getting hot enough that it was starting to melt...I turned the AC on so that it would spin for the rest of the way home.

I bought a new fan, and was going to buy a heat guard, but they are hard to find. Someone mentioned a manifold blanket, but they are 100 bucks for basically heat wrap. I am missing both heat guards.

I went out last weekend, bought some header wrap and wrapped my manifold. I also had some thin metal, and spent some time making my own heat guard for the top of the intake, then painting it with 1500* paint.

I ran out of time that night, so I only got the top portion of it done in header wrap. I went ahead and went out for a drive anyway to see if there was a difference. I drove it for a bit, got it up to temp, got on it a little into boost, then came back to the house. I then popped the hood and seemed like it was cooler up top, but everything else was still smoking hot...Almost burned myself on the hood prop, radiator felt really hot as well.

The next morning I went out and finished wrapping by the o2 sensor. I did not make a heat guard for the bottom. As I was wrapping it, and got underneath the car, I heard a bit of a rattle. I look under the motor, and see a bunch of header wrap with about 5 hose clamps, and 2 of them were loose. I thought hmm...So I wiggled it again, and I could tell the the exhaust how it was connected was loose...So I go down the road to an auto shop that I have access too. I put it up on the lift and pull the hose clamps off down there and unwrap the heat wrap. Looks like previous owner cut the cat off, and put some flex pipe in place of it. The flex pipe split in haf like someone cut it or something, and looks like he had wrapped it with header wrap in order to sell it.

Not to mention that it had seemed like there was an exhaust leak...So I called the local exhaust shop whom I know personally, and it is getting fixed tomorrow. I have not really drove it to know if the header wrap by the o2 sensor made a difference on the heat in the engine bay. I am afraid to put this new AC fan on, as I believe it will melt it. The temps here aren't even hot yet, its been 60's-80s and its already getting this hot. This heat issue has me concerned because I don't want to be fighting with a cooling issue due to it running lean or something as I don't know enough about turbo'd cars.

The car itself is in good shape for its age with low miles for its age, I would hate to get rid of it, but I don't want to continually sink money in it either.

I do know that turbo cars will get much hotter than a N/A car, but still.:dunno::tat:
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well this is what I have been told, some of it I have verified, others I haven't

Have receipts for tranmission work...3500 stall, and a shift kit.

I know its got a different intercooler setup with aluminum piping and stuff, not sure how to tell what brand it is.

Comp cams, he had sent me a pic of the engravings in the cam, but I don't think I have them anymore...201 something ring a bell?

Walbro 255

mugen full exhaust

boost gauge (car runs about 11psi max WOT...IDK if that is stock boost levels or not, I am assuming so.)

stock bov, stock exhaust manifold, he said it was a newer garett turbo, so I believe that it is same size just newer.

That is all to my knowledge and was the main things that he had mentioned, it may have other things done to it, but I am not sure...I wouldn't mind doing things to it later on like bigger injectors, bigger turbo if the car turns out to be a good car...I just don't want to put a bunch of money into it just keeping it running...I bought this car with intentions to save money in fuel as I was spending about $125 a week in diesel in my truck going back and forth to work alone. Girlfriend is wanting to buy a house, and I got into a chunk of my money I had set back to buy this car to help save in fuel, but also have a car that I have always thought was neat...I have had several vehicles for my age, and always like to trade...I had an 08 civic si I bought new, and it was a fun car, with great fuel milage...it had 197hp, and figured a GSX would be fun as it was AWD, factory turbo'd, and has 200 something hp..figured it would run decent....definately doesn't run as good as my 2012 mustang gt I had though lol.

Hard to explain I guess without a pic, and I don't have the car here...I wrapped the top of the manifold with a 15 ft piece, then used a 10 ft piece around the o2 sensor...I used the metallic stuff not the fiberglass stuff...its 25 bucks for 15 feed of it...Its easier to work with, and also seems to be better than the fiberglass as I have used both on quads.
 
Haha I bought a Diesel to save on fuel to finish my built :rofl:

Some get away with a 255 walbro without a fuel pressure regulator, some others don't ... Just saying, a stock 2gen bov can't take more than 11-12psi. Your turbo "could" be trying to push more without you knowing. A 1gen bov would be a good upgrade to start with.

A picture of the turbo with all the number stamp on it is all you need to know what you have. There's a lot to play with before a bigger turbo ... :)

And for the cams well wait until you have to remove the vc to check by yourself. With the exhaust you had who knows what else you'll find.
 
Mugen full exhaust... is this a Honda? Lol
From what you've said I think this exhaust is more OReilly special.

I don't understand why you have owned so many cars if you don't really know anything about them. I would have stuck with the GT, because DSM's are a love hate relationship and if you aren't a mechanic to begin with you will be if you keep the car.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I just don't know anything about the turbod cars. I'm not a mechanic but I am plenty capable of doing repairs and such. Yes that's what I thought as well but that's what it says on the exhaust as well...yeah...I wish I would have kept the gt as well. However I'm not rich...when I wanted a rock crawler I had to have something to pull it with so I went and traded it for a new Cummins. I couldn't afford to keep both.
 
Ok I'll play nice because you are so new. These cars get hot under the hood, just how it works. Several things can go wrong on these cars to exacerbate the heat though. Thermostat can fail or clog (don't think this is your problem), the fan switch or temp sensor connected to the fan can fail, the fan itself can fail, or you can have a massive exhaust leak (as you've already seen). Show some pics of the previous owners work, so we can laugh for one, and so we can help you figure some of this car out.
And what exactly do you mean by the fan melting? Is the intercooler piping too close to the fan motor? I've seen this cause the fan to fail before when they use cheap kits that aren't angled correctly
 
Turbo cars get hot for sure ... hotter than N/A cars, but your GSX shouldn't be getting so hot that it's melting the 2ndary fan. Something is definitely wrong. Where is your temp gauge running inside the car? It should be right about middle or a hair less. Can you tell if you have the stock radiator or not? Like others have said in this thread, a few pictures of your engine bay and the melting fan would really help pin point where the issue is.

Maybe you meant Megan exhaust???
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Oops, thanks techboy! Yes, you are correct, its a megan racing exhaust...oops! Misread :p I saw it on the downpipe.

When I get home after work, and pick my car from the exhaust shop, I will snap some pics for you guys. Keep in mind, this car didn't have any header wrap at all, or heat shields.

The radiator is black, so my guess would be that its a stock radiator. I don't believe that the intercooler piping is affecting the fan, but I don't remember the exact routing of it off the top of my head.

The temp gauge reads normal, right in the middle or a little less. No check engine codes either. I thought my factory gauge was messed up and the car was running much hotter, but I hooked my OBD2 scanner up, and it runs right at 210*. With that being said, I kind of narrowed out anything cooling related...I am hoping between me wrapping the exhaust manifold, part of the down pipe, and getting the major exhaust leak fixed that it will eliminate some heat. I will know a little bit more later on this evening on if it is still generating a ton of heat or not.

Both electric fans were working...Of course, the AC fan only comes on when the AC is turned on, and it was coming on just fine. Thermostat is opening and closing fine as you can feel it build up pressure then relieve while the car is running if you have the hood popped. I thought my factory gauge was messed up and the car was running much hotter, but I hooked my OBD2 scanner up, and it runs at normal temp.

Thanks for all the help so far guys...I will get you all some pics in the next few hours.
 
If it actually runs 210, I would swap out the thermostat to a 185. It's not absolutely necessary, but I do it anyway. I believe my actual coolant temps will sit around 190 that way, been a while since I checked. But hey, if it ain't broke don't fix it

Another thing that always helps with the whole cooling system is to add a bottle of redline water wetter, it reduces the surface tension of the water, allowing it to flow better.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Well guys, I just got my car back, and I drove it around, got it up to 210*, and then ran it a little hard for just a bit...Came home, popped the hood, and it is MUCH cooler. I am not worried about it melting the new AC fan that I will get in the mail Friday now. After wrapping it, making the heat guard, and having the exhaust fixed, my hood prop no longer almost burns you when I touch it, and when I put my hand between the radiator and exhaust manifold, I can leave it there and it not burn from the super hot air.

I did go ahead and take some pics to show you guys everything.

If you can't view this then let me know, but I took 6 pictures in this picasa album...
https://plus.google.com/photos/116424294864098183298/albums/6008208829133796849
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well I just got back from a 2 hour trip with the car...I decided to pop the hood when I pulled into the driveway to see how hot she was. Hood prop was cool to the touch. Top of the radiator was burning hot but fins were not. Exhaust manifold was glowing orange on a spot that I couldn't wrap. I put my hand between the radiator and exhaust and was able to hold it there although was a little warm it wasn't burning hot like it used to be. Used to I could barely put my hand down there. I still don't think it's gotten hot enough to melt the fan again.
 
Glad that for the most part your problem has been resolved.

I don't know what mods you're planning to do down the road, but I remember from reading your other posts that there was some fuel things done to this car (I belive a Walbro pump for sure). I continue to keep an eye on the "heat" issues. It would be wise to install an EGT guage and see where they are running. The fact that your manifold is glowing still suggests to me it's a bit on the hot side. And since you've eliminated the possibility of a cooling issue, next up on the list for me would be to see if the fuel mixture was off causing high EGTs. A wideband would help you determine this as well.
 
Nice car man ! :D

Here's the best advice I can give you if you want to survive here on Talk. When a user give you some infomation and you don't know what he's talking about, search and read. See in my first reply I told you that your 2gen BOV is probally the worste BOV ever made on a DSM. Your wastegate could be never opening who knows and you would still be pushing 11psi, that would generate heat ... I told you that most of the time the 255 walbro isn't suppose to be install when running a stock FPR, see that could change your fuel base pressure ... With a simple search you would have found a lot of information and the 2gen BOV or using a 255 walbro with a stock fpr.

I know there's a lot to learn but the more you'll learn to more you'll like your car.

Peace :)
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Dsm4life yeah I know I was just getting a little frustrated with it. I kept having to buy a bunch of small things....anyway thanks for the compliment.

I am actually looking for a 1g bov now and plan on doing that along with a wideband in place of this narrowband that isn't hooked up...I read that the fpr on the 97s were back by the fuel pump I believe I just haven't had a chance to dig into things yet...I have been moving my gfs stuff to a storage unit and stuff just had my hands full.
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
I talked with the original owner, and he does not recall changing the FPR on this car when he swapped in the Walbro 255...I told him I had not checked yet, and was curious. Therefore that says "No I didn't" written all over it. I definately need to get an adjustable FPR, I would like to get one with the external gauge so that I can run it inside. I broke my stock pillar that had a 2 gauge pod bolted on, so I need to buy a new one. I have my eyes on one on eBay that is a 3 pod aftermarket one for 40 bucks. I would like to have my boost gauge in there, a wideband, and the fuel pressure from the regulator. I am sure that I will need help when I come to doing the regulator like what the fuel pressure needs to be set at and stuff...will save that for another day.

Thanks again guys!
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
On another note...triple post FTW! But the hose going to the wastegate is zip tied on rather than a host clamp...I am not sure if the wastegate is working as it should, could that cause it to be getting hotter than normal?
 
Here's your new bible : www.vfaq.com

To hook a fuel pressure gauge (you'll want an electric one), well it's only a matter of wich adapter you'll use on the fuel line. Check what he did on VFAQ, it will give you ideas on how it could be plumb.

An other thing you could do to help your car is remove all the emission line on the throttle. You can search : remove vacuum, or Taboo vacuum ... It will lead you to threads on how to and how to build an EGR delete plate. This is a free mod, it help clean the engine bay and also help by eliminating some boost leak you could have. This is one of the first thing I do to my DSM since I don't have to pass any emission here where I live. ;)
 
On another note...triple post FTW! But the hose going to the wastegate is zip tied on rather than a host clamp...I am not sure if the wastegate is working as it should, could that cause it to be getting hotter than normal?
No, the only thing it could do if you think about it is create a boost leak. A zip tie is better than nothing. What I wanted to say is that I remember you saying that last owner installed a newer turbo wich we still don't know what it is.

Since you are recirculating the BOV (a 2gen BOV) that can't take more than 11psi without opening and dumping back the air in your intake pipe (between turbo and N&N filter). Your turbo could be spooling at his max and you would not see more than 11psi since the bov is dumping back ... That how my car was working when I got it 8-9 years ago so I tough I would share.

To know if the gate is working, you could also go to a car shop and use a vacuum/boost hand pump and see at what psi the gate open. Or run a different BOV and watch if boost start to climp higher than 11psi. Simple as that.
 
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