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The dealer you went to is full of it.
The injector resistor pack is part # MD172146
The thing is wired up to the harness in the engine bay that goes to the injectors. You just have to cut 4 wires and splice this in. Look at the difference between the turbo wiring diagram and the NT one and you'll see how simple it is.

The 550 injectors are 2-3 ohms, just like the turbo ones.
 
Okay that is what I was wondering. So it's not all that difficult to wire the fuel injector resistance pack in? Worthwhile investment? Also, how much should I look to buy them for (as in off someone that is parting out their car)
 
Turbo ECU (don't bother with the eprom one. It's useless unless you want to throw away $300 to get the tmo toys.) $100

Fuel Injector resistor pack $10 @ the wreckers.....they don't go bad, a used one is fine.

Fuel injectors, rail and regulator $50 from the parts trader

Turbo MAS $50 from the parts trader.

Knock sensor $5 from the wreckers.



Try and get both sides of the harness so you can wire these things in with the harness. Hardwiring works fine but it's a real pain if you ever have to pull the engine.

There you go. For an extra $200 you get to protect your motor and do things properly. Expect to get much better response from the car too.

Usually I suggest to people to install the ECU, injectors, MAS, knock sensor and Fuel pressure regulator first so they can make sure things are running properly. The car will run perfectly with the turbo electronics and fuel system even without the turbo.

The turbo should go on last after the fuel system has been tested for a few days.
 
Quote: You CAN'T run the bigger injector or a knock sensor without the turbo ecu. The nt doesn't have any code in the ecu even get data from the knock sensor and it can only adjust fuel trims 20% (max injectors are 290cc)


YOU NEED A TURBO ECU TO RUN THE 450 INJECTORS.

If you're desperate I have one you can buy. $100 shipped.
 
i kinda figured that that dealer was full of it. when i finally got one from someone it had a plug on it, and if it has a plug that means its sold separately.
 
Hey Mike, I'd definitely be interested in that ECU if you still have it.
 
boosting nt!
how is everybody hooking up their Fuel Pressure Regulators? Is it basically just a plug into the system once i get the Turbo ecu in...which vacuum lines have to be changed if at all..??
by the way, Mike H. has an excellent idea on not boosting till everything is running fine...
 
Yeah the fuel pressure regulator is exactly the same as far as the hookup goes. Should you be able to open the wastegate by hand, and if so, how?
 
Talon_92 said:
I havnt done it but as I have figured it you should be able to go turbo only running about 9 lbs of boost for about 8 hours of labor and 500-600 bucks. I dont know of any factory turbo car that you could actually buy and drive for 500-600 dollars.
You are considering just the cost of the turbo conversion components - not including the car itself. It's like saying that you know of 500-600 dollars worth of turbo car parts that you can drive without a car. Now, add the 500-600 dollars to the value of your car (if you sell it) and say that you don't know of any factory turbo car that you could buy and drive for the money. BTW, a guy I know bought a 1G FWD Turbo Laser with blown 14B for $300 and got used (but good) 14B for $150 - which still beats the 500-600 dollars you plan to invest just into the parts for the turbo conversion (and that includes the cost of the car).


V8SpankR said:
NT cars have higher compression and aren't ideal for high boost levels and the cost vs hp gained isn't that great. You'd be better off (mechanically and financially) buying a turbo car in the 1st place 'cause you'll spend alot of money just to match a stock turbo DSM.
I guess if you can do all the labor yourself you can keep the cost down but most people don't rebuild motors themselves. I doubt you'll be able to keep the cost under 3k including turbo and properly built motor unless you only want 300hp or so. I could find a stock AWD car for 2k (100k plus miles) and invest a grand and run 12s plus I would have AWD.
My friend just sold his 93TSI AWD with a 18G and Buschur FMIC that was just installed 5 months ago and ran very low 12s for only 7k with only 80k on the odometer.
IMO you'd still save money and going turbo in the 1st place.
I fully agree with V8SpankR. Doing a turbo conversion is fully understandable if you have some extensive exterior or interior modifications you don't want to lose by selling the car. The price differences of 1G turbo (AWD or FWD) and NT cars aren't really that huge, though. If you look around, you can easily find a turbo 1G for the value of your NT + 500-600 dollars (or even less) - minus the labor and time spent on locating the parts and the turbo conversion itself. It just seems to be the most logical, most economical, easiest and painless way to a turbo DSM many people have taken. The advantage of the factory turbo 1G DSM over a turboed NT is in its strong engine components that don't have to be upgraded upto 450HP. You can easily run 12's or even 11's without ever touching the engine - which you can't really do with the turboed NT. Simply, in the long run, the factory turbo car is much greater bang for the buck invested... It's NOT about discouraging people from turbocharging their NT cars, it's about helping them to make the right decision. :D
 
I think it could be done reasonably well, just not for that cheap. I've got a 91 and it's got the same big rods in it that the turbos do, swap pistons and I'm set! Well.... that is the idea. Then you also have the problem with the tranny.
 
with minor work to the crank and the nt flywheel and clutch you can use a 2.0 nt tranny.

just make sure taht you uppgrade to an nt specific clutch when you decide to get pwoer hungry. my 30,000 mile nt clutch is holding the power of my turbo engine with turbo back 2.5" and straight pipe. rubber in second proved that to me.
 
I see a lot of people here arguing with Michael Hamilton about the necessity of a turbo ECU. It's worth the extra aggrevation, and added expense to do it right the first time, instead of suffering engine failure because you were too lazy to swap it in. You really should swap in the low comp pistons too to avaoid problems later, and be able to push the car much further HP wise too. It took me a weekend to do when I took my time, and wasn't really wasn't hard in the least. It's a good time to change your tbelt, and throw a new head gasket in too.
 
Well I agree that a turbo ECU would be nice, but Mr. Hamilton here didn't send me all of the parts that he was supposed to. So now I'm forced to run the NT computer until I get parts from another source. He still hasn't returned any of my emails since like 12/14 when he said he would reship the items I didn't get. Hopefully he'll respond here or someone up in Canada will get on his case.....
 
Yeah and they don't end there either! =) of course not...... I placed my one big final order with the dealer for all the bolts that hold the whole turbo assembly together, first of all, those bolts are friggin expensive, second, the dealer messed it up just enough that all I can do is sit and wait for the other bolts to come in.... bastards.
 
Yeah, they messed my order up bad too. I had to wait 2 weeks for the BOV gasket, I got the wrong ring gasket. I needed the one between the exhaust housing, and mani, but got the compressor housing one. Then they sent the injector insulators for the bolts, when I needed the ones on the tip of the injectors. I even sat there, and pointed to everything in their manual, and he made it seem like he had it down pat. I just have to finish the ECU wiring today, and I'll be done, but I still haven't recieved my f*cking UICP from the guy who was supposed to send it 3 weeks ago. He told me he sent it about 2 weeks ago, and then I got an email a week ago. here it is
I need your address again so I can send the pipe. I know I said it was on the way but the craziest thing happpened. I wrote that e-mail right before I was going to send it. I was on the way to UPS and the box with the pipe was in the back of my dad's work truck and a can of yellow paint spilled all over the package. None got on the pipe. My problem is the paint covered up all the
address.
Sorry man,
but not really my fault

I don't know how to react to this one. I could have bought a pipe from someone else who wanted a lot more, but he always sends me parts quickly. Instead, I tried to save a few $, and ordered it from this guy, stressing the fact, that he had to send it quick. As for expense, this has cost me over a grand to do so far.
 
Josh if it makes you feel any better I did the exact same thing... sat there and pointed at their computer and said, okay I need 3 of this one and so on. They still messed it up. They ordered two studs for the exhman, but forgot the stud for the o2 sensor housing. Then they only gave me 2 bolts for the exhman, instead of 3. They forgot the 2 for the oil return pipe also.
 
are we talking about ADDING a turbo to a NA ? or swapping a turbo engine in? I am about to buy a NA and swap a 4g63 with ECU in for under $900... that sound good ? Considering im only paying $1500 for the 96 eclipse.. great condition.. just 190,000 miles on the engine.. doesnt matter since im gonna do the swap anyway...
 
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