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Blew something electrically, 5 things not working

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Sorry kept forgetting to post simple pictures I took, still have the car in my way in the same spot.

I REALLY don't think I'm missing a wire at the positive terminal. Last time I did anything a few days ago, I fixed some coolant leaks and replaced the battery terminals.

Check this intake manifold ground, hooked up:
Image


This 60A relay that is missing, that was removed when ABS was deleted. That couldn't be powering additional things like what's not working huh? And there are THREE main plates/wires connected to the positive terminal count em, nothing else there has fallen down and been missed..
Image


Fuse box, the radiator fan relay is missing because I had not used the stock radiator fan wiring, rigged up some custom relays and wiring for my slim fans. I still tried putting that relay in place from my parts car, and swapping that big relay on the top right of those other 6. No effect.
Image
 
#24 ·
When you say you were working on it and crossed it what were you working on? Most of the systems you are having problems with derive power off sub fuse link 6, a 40 amp circuit that feeds into the interior fuse box on a single large-gauge wire that, if left unhooked if you were messing with the fuse box, would cause many if your issues. That circuit also powers the ecu and radio battery backup systems.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
'working and crossed a wire' This was just from memory, because when I found out things weren't working it was some time later. :(

I'm wondering where that sub-link 6 '40A fuse' connection would be located up under the dashboard? It is possible a connection somewhere was left off.

I have a stock original radio, I will try to see if radio battery back-up functions are also not working..
 
#27 ·
All the fuseable links are in the under hood fuse box. If you just left the connection off it would be a large 10ga or so single wire not fully seated into the interior fuse box.
 
#30 · (Edited)
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If you look at this detail of the diagram that was posted earlier it shows clearly that all the subsystems that don't work are powered by the alternator side of the fusible link. I would check continuity between each one of those fuses and the fusible link, while installing the 'rigged up' relay the hookup of those systems to the fusible link went 'missing' (see red arrow), or so it seems.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Checked things out more, nothing new other than you were correct, my ECU and Radio battery back-up functions are not working either.

3 main plates hooked to the + battery, only 60A ABS fusible link missing, no other wires hanging below:
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Only three 40A fusible links shown in this box, R. Defrost Bat. and lamp, all appears normal around them:
Image

Image

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And, all appears normal under the dash. All I ever did under there was install wires going to wideband O2 and digital boost gauge.

Gah, but why had I melted before that one alternator wire...
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
serviceguy said:
If you look at this detail of the diagram that was posted earlier it shows clearly that all the subsystems that don't work are powered by the alternator side of the fusible link. I would check continuity between each one of those fuses and the fusible link, while installing the 'rigged up' relay the hookup of those systems to the fusible link went 'missing' (see red arrow), or so it seems.
Click to expand...
2nd to last picture I posted, is that 40A LAMP fusible link, kind of right in the center, the link in question?
 
#33 ·
I don't think so, it's the strip of fuses on the right starting with the 80A fusible link. IF the 80A is linked to the battery and it is good, then all those systems should be powered. I would check continuity between them and the 80A fuse. From the look of it there could be a metal bar that joins them under the box, I can't be positive because I never took it apart other than for replacing the 80A fuse.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
OMG!
Finally got it. You guys are awesome, right on point.

I should have checked all the fusible links with a tester for continuity first. One 40A fusible link was blown, even though it looked fine. Tester told the real story. It was the 40A one at the bottom of the strip on the right [40, 30, 30, 30, 40).

I can't believe I overlooked this for so long, I can't believe my brake lights and pop-ups and vent blower motor work again!

For future reference, in the case of that melted wire at the alternator connection... that is the 40A fusible link connected to it that would potentially blow next after the melted wire.

Once again thanks for all the help guys, I'm sorry I didn't test all those links with a tester first.. (I had the 80A previously)
 
#37 ·
TajMan said:
OMG!
Finally got it. You guys are awesome, right on point.

I should have checked all the fusible links with a tester for continuity first. One 40A fusible link was blown, even though it looked fine. Tester told the real story. It was the 40A one at the bottom of the strip on the right [40, 30, 30, 30, 40).

I can't believe I overlooked this for so long, I can't believe my brake lights and pop-ups and vent blower motor work again!

For future reference, in the case of that melted wire at the alternator connection... that is the 40A fusible link connected to it that would potentially blow next after the melted wire.

Once again thanks for all the help guys, I'm sorry I didn't test all those links with a tester first.. (I had the 80A previously)
Click to expand...
Are you sure that fuse box is not messed up? That 40A fuse should only power the fog lights and headlights.
 
Discussion starter · #38 · (Edited)
Only thing altered on that fuse box, was my radiator fans wired independently.

When that 40A fusible link was replaced, all my problems started working again. Pop-ups, interior vent fan.. I assumed everything, I'll get someone else's help today to confirm brake lights and everything are working properly..
(BTW, my headlights were still turning on even with the problem, the POP-UPS just wouldn't come up when the headlights turned on)
 
#40 ·
They are, I mean on a different circuit than the headlights. Any chance that during the fans rewiring the sub fusible link wiring got mixed up? The pop up fuse should be the 30A third to last one in that strip of fuses starting from the 80A one. I think I got the 40A headlights fuse con-fused though :p, the 40A that you replaced goes to power some other subsystem, if the pop ups, seat belts etc. are cut off by that fuse being blown it means they are not being powered by the battery as they should. I would a) remove the 40A that you replaced b) check continuity between the other fuses and the battery.

From your description it looks like instead of being power like they should...

Image


they could be powered like this...
Image


Which brings back to the 80A fuse being bad...that would also mean that you could be drawing a lot of current through the wrong (too small cable) that for some reason is connected to the wrong 12V.
 
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TajMan
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