DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

Wutangdavis

· Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Need opinions/advice:
A couple months ago I got a local engine shop to rebuild my 7-bolt 4g63t.
I got the engine pulled at my buddies' family shop, then dropped it off at another shop(local engine shop) for them to completely disassemble the engine and rebuild it for me, they hot tanked the block and all that. I supplied them with the new parts to put in, rods, pistons, valves, all new bearings and studs , literally a full rebuild. The engine shop called a few days later saying it was ready to go and it should just drop in and fire right up. Excited as all hell it finally got put back in the car, and my buddy(also my mechanic) attempted to start it. No spark. After a bunch of diagnosing, turns out the engine shop installed the crank sensor backwards. My buddy replaced the crank sensor, still no spark. And in the progress of trying to start it, the timing belt jumped; The engine shop also put the T-belt tensioner on wrong. Coulda bent my brand new valves!!!!! After retiming the engine with the belt tensioned properly, my buddy tried firing it again. She fired up. BUT, as soon as it built up a bit of oil pressure the OILPAN STARTED PISSING OIL!!!!!!!!! LIKE WHAT?!?!?!? the engine shop once again, had the oilpan on way to tight, crushing the gasket and causing it to leak. So after 10+ hours of fixing the engine shops mistakes the car finally ran. and it ran good for the first 1500 km's. I was doing a good break in. it hadnt seen redline, easy shifts, etc. One day after work i pull up to a friends house and hear a crazy metallic ticking noise coming from the engine. WTF. Did some diagnosing myself and found the crank pulley had started swaying side to side out of nowhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WTF!! pulled the wheel off and tried physically pulling the crank by hand and sure enugh it F***ing has like a half inch of play both ways.... The engine shop says its because of too much pressure on the crank, because of my clutch. But no, f**** that it was fine till they rebuilt it! I literally drove it for 1500km and then bam out of nowhere i got the tick of doom. So i honestly am almost positive my blocks' oil squirters are fine. which is the reason 2g's Crankwalk. So it had 138,500 km on it when i got it rebuilt, it was at 140,000 when it occured. so please. some DSM God chime in?
 
Likely an assembly error, considering all the other issues. 1500 miles on a heavy clutch isn't going to do shit so that is just a cop-out. If it was my car I would call the shop and demand they buy a used block, rebuild it right and be done but if they are claiming clutch killed it then you may have to lawyer up.
 
yet another engine fail from a shop that does not fully understand the 7 bolt nort the little tips to assemble it.

Couple reasons it could have failed.

Improper oil clearance on the center main
Improper alignment of the thrust bearing/girdle
If a split thrust block, the thrust washers in backwards.

Use of improper main bearings, Installing a split thrust main bearing in a saddle bearing block and visa versa.

A over heavy clutch can help lead to crank walk by limiting oil clearance between the crank thrust face and the bearing thrust face.

If the crank thrust face had any sort of damage, that would chew the new bearing up in short order.

I doubt you have a half inch of crank endplay, around .050-.060 worth of forward crank movement would bend the crank trigger plate and bust the crank sensor causing a no start.

As far as getting the shop to do something, they may or may not, depends on what they think of there rep.

Installing H beam rods and forged pistons, they can claim "race engine" and no warranty. If you have more than a box stock OE turbo,or injectors or a tuning solution... "race car"

Go read the so called warranty on any brand of Forged pistons, or H beam rods, race class bearings, aftermarket cams.... For what it says, and what it boils down to, there is not one.

If you get a lawyer involved, thats more expense, and to file for small claims court in my area is $250, then if on the outside chance you do get a judgement, there is no time limit to pay it off.
Now where you are, what the cost is, and what the laws are, I have no idea.

The best advice I can give you at this point, is to get it out, and slowly pull the engine down, take loads of pics, measure clearances, and start an engine fail thread.
Myself and others will be able to look at the pics and make recommendations and suggestions on what is needed and what can be reused.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
well thanks for your advice man. the engines getting pulled and going to a different engine shop that knows what they're doing this time. they're going to try to figure out what caused the issue, get proof, then hopefully i can show the proof to the other shop and get my money back. If they still refuse ill take them to court. but thats where im at now.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts